[HiFlyer]

I know it's been a year since the last post on this but I'm a Newbie to the forum. I have a 2013 LT1 w/o Homelink but it looks to me that I could fit a Homelink transmitter from a Volvo visor to the space beneath the lamps. Can the bracket that is not being used by the microphone and sunroof switches be removed? If so it's a very cheap way of getting the Homelink. The Volvo transmitters are easy to remove and lighted. I have added them to several cars over the years.

 

[HiFlyer]

I ordered the Overhead Console Cover from GM parts today, $53 and a Homelink transmitter (lighted) off of eBay for $15. I will swap the guts from my old console into the new cover (adding LED lights) and splice in the wiring. I plan on adding the smaller visor style Homelink to the old Console Cover and selling it.
Side note: Added custom built LED lighting to the Liftgate but chickened out trying to put the Courtesy Lamp Assembly down. Boy are they tough!

 

[HiFlyer]

I am about to replace the Console Cover (Plate) in my LT with the Homelink version. It should be here Friday (GM parts, $53), I picked up a lighted transmitter from the local wrecking yard for $2.00. Does anyone know which wire is hot when the lights are on? I suppose I could splice the transmitter LED to the Orange Console LED.

 

[ls973800]

I had posted some of the wire colors in this forum when I added the Homelink buttons with lights to my non-lit buttons. Check out this link, post #3 for my wire colors and what they do. This was on a 2010 LTZ which was a later build and did not come with the lights on the Homelink buttons as found on some of the earlier build 2010's.

http://www.traverseforum.com/index.php?topic=3473.0

 

[HiFlyer]

Thanks! I had seen that thread last month but couldn't find it again. It should help a lot.

 

[HiFlyer]

First of all I would like to thank Kemosabe & IS973800 for all the help they have given on this project.

The replacement Overhead Console Cover arrived on Friday and since it was a beautiful day here in Omaha I decided to not wait for the weekend. I picked up an almost new Garage Door Transmitter at a local wrecking yard last week. The Overhead Console Cover is part # 25978347, COVER-RF CNSL OPG *TITANIUM-58 and cost $55.99 plus shipping. Just about any Transmitter from a GM vehicle will work. Just look for the same shape buttons. I pulled transmitters from a Jimmy, 1500, Yukon, and Trail Blazer. They all look the same and all had LEDs (instrument lights). The rubber buttons come in grey or black. I used black to contrast with my grey (Titanium) interior.
Step by Step:
1. Wash your hands so you don’t get your headliner dirty. I like to program the Garage Door Transmitter before I test it. Check YouTube for HomeLink instructions.
2. Pull original Console down. Gently pull down one corner and work a screwdriver in so you can get a finger in. It’s tight but will come down with a little force.
3. Everything is powered from the one Grey connector. Note that there are more wires on the headliner side than on the Console side. Not all the wires pass through to the Console. Wires number 6 and 8 (below) will be needed to power the Transmitter.
The Console side of the connector has empty holes where you need pins. You could try to find the pins from another connector (auto parts store or junk yard). I decided to use a second connector (sub connector) to supply the Battery Voltage and Instrument Lights.
4. Swap the guts of your old Console to the new Console. This is a good time to replace the Courtesy Lights with LEDs. (LED’s are polarity sensitive so test them in the Console. I used a 9v battery.)
5. Install the Garage Door Opener.
6. Unwrap about 1 inch of the Console's wiring harness. Using a Quick Connect splice the Transmitter’s ground wire to the Black Wire from the grey connector.
7. If you are using a 2nd connector to power the Transmitter go to step 8.
If you installed pins in the # 6 and 8 slots of the grey connector, run a wire from pin 8 (Instrument Lights) to the center pin on the Transmitter’s connector. Battery Power (pin 6) goes to the Inner Most pin on the Transmitter. You are done and ready to test your new Console. Go to step 10.
8. If you used a second connector to power the Transmitter, be sure it’s polarized (can’t be plugged in backwards). Using 4 inch (#16 or #18) wires solder (or crimp) the sub connector and wrap with electrical tape. Make the Headliner side of the sub connector (female side) but don't wrap with tape yet.
9. In your vehicle, unwrap about 2 inches of the harness, use Quick Connects to splice to the #6 and #8 wires above the headliner.
10. Connect your new Console and test all functions. A darken garage is the best place to see the buttons on the Garage Door Opener, Instrument Lights on.
11. After testing wrap all loose wires with electrical tape. Install Console in headliner.

I took lots of photos of the installation but unfortunately get an error when I try to upload them here. (https://picasaweb.google.com/103987703483262815875/Misc#)
Connector Pinout
PIN 1: OG - Courtesy Lamp Voltage
PIN 2: BN - Sunroof Switch Open Signal (C3U)
PIN 3: OG - Sunroof Switch Close Signal (C3U)
PIN 4: L-BU - Front Sunshade Switch Open Signal (C3U)
PIN 5: YE - Front Sunshade Switch Close Signal (C3U)
PIN 6: RD/WH - Battery Positive Voltage (UG1)
PIN 7: PU/WH - LED Dimming Signal
PIN 8: GY - Instrument Panel Lamp Voltage
PIN 9: GY/BK - Courtesy Lamp High Control
PIN 10: BK - Ground
PIN 11: GY - Cellular Microphone Signal (EU1)
PIN 12: BARE - Ground (EU1

 

[ls973800]

Fantastic! I love when a plan comes together!

 

[HiFlyer]

Hannibal Smith was a cool dude! 8)

 

[easytz]

Does anyone know if power shuts off to the homelink when locked on the 2017 Traverse? Concern over recent home break ins in the area.