Not to burst your bubble, but do you plan on cutting the trans line in your pic and putting the filter in-place? I believe those lines are relatively higher pressure and the only way I can see you getting this to mount is some fuel line and hose clamps and you might be introducing a leak. Not sure as I've never seen this done. Maybe someone else can chime in?

 

They are low pressure.... ( Unless the cooler clogs! )

Yes, I'm cutting the hard line.

 

And if they leak, it's easy to identify and replace/correct.

 

The only thing holding the cooler hard line in place....is this tiny wire "E" clip... I'm guessing there's about 5 psi in the cooler circuit.

 

The only thing holding the cooler hard line in place....is this tiny wire "E" clip... I'm guessing there's about 5 psi in the cooler circuit.
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The pressure is probably 10-15psi, similar to cooling systems. Pressure is a matter of volume and restriction. Only a minimal amount of restriction in the cooler. Rather, the slowing and creation of multiple paths in the cooler to increase surface area and contact time to allow for cooling. Does Raybestos give the pressure drop across the filter?

Which line will you be using, feed or return from the cooler?

The hard line has flare on it, which is secured by the clip, and there is an o-ring inside providing the sealing. I learned that any force on the line that would cause it to be pushed off-center could cause it to leak. I had a chevy van and a mechanic installed a battery incorrectly. The battery cable was pressed up against the line. It took a few weeks to begin leaking. Went back and he said I need a new line and radiator for $500.. I fixed it myself and found a new shop to give my business.

I have 120K on my transmission and have considered doing this for the past few months.

 

Does the filter have a bypass if it gets clogged?

Does it void any warranty?

I have only used them in the past after transmission replacement and potential dirt or parts in cooler and lines.

I don't drive them like I used to.

I will keep mine stock.

 

Does the filter have a bypass if it gets clogged? Yes, if the filter ever causes a restriction, it will bypass the filter portion. The magnet will remain active.

Does it void any warranty? Yes and No. The dealer has to prove the modification caused the issue. The burden of proof is on them.

I have only used them in the past after transmission replacement and potential dirt or parts in cooler and lines. Yup. Smart move.

I will keep mine stock. I would too, except there is no way to service the internal filter. Once that starts to bypass and trash starts circulating in the fluid, its over. I currently have 3 work vehicles over 300k miles and 1 at 275k.All are on their original Transmissions and T/C's . I tend to hold onto my stuff longer than others do. If this was a 4 year deal, to trade in on something else, I wouldn't bother with this mod.

This is the engine compartment on my 325k mile Duramax. Looks showroon new, like the Traverse. Look at about the 3 0'clock position and you can see the Magnafine filter installed in the Hydroboost system. NEVER one issue with it, in all those miles. I take good care of my stuff.

 

No passenger vehicles have transmission filters that need to be changed other than when transmission repairs are done. Adding a second filter adds nothing to the life of the transmission and may reduce pressure in the line which could cause damage.

 

.... reduce pressure in the line which could cause damage.

The cooler circuit is fluid from the converter draining back to the pan. There is no pressure and the fluid controls no functions. Your ignorance on automatic transmissions is shining brightly.

 

Montereyjack2$--I hate to disagree with you--but I do! A filter can save a transmission from needing extensive repairs if it is accessible externally and is changed periodically. The analogy of your statement is that an engine oil filter is not required to be changed other than when engine repairs are done. I suggest that change interval is locking the barn after the horse has escaped. Just my thought!

 

Hey AlisoBob,
Are you planning to put any kind of flair on the hard line or will some good quality clamps hold her in place?

 

I'm doing a flare.

 

Hey again AlisoBob,
Did some temp readings on my transmission cooler lines this morning after a 35 minute drive into work. The upper line was approx ten degrees cooler than the lower line, 130's vs 140's. The upper line being the inbound line and the lower line going back to the transmission, I'm guessing the reason for the cooler temps going into the radiator is the coolant being much warmer than the inbound trans fluid and heating the trans fluid before heading back to the transmission. This sound reasonable?

 

When I cut the hardline on my 2020, I'll start it with the holes open and find out the definitive answer as to which way the fluid is flowing....

 

Why you put the filter, before the cooler.......

 

Time for cooler flush and filter install. Couple iterations of trans fluid change as well, but I certainly wouldn't flush the trans and loosen that stuff for redeposition somewhere else.

 

Still in process of installing transmission cooler and engine cooler in my '19 and discovered something interesting - hot ATF flows out of the transmission and into the lower connection on the radiator and the "cooled" ATF flows out of the upper radiator connection and heads back to the transmission. Just a little FYI...

 

Good piece of information for those who are adding an external trans cooler. Putting new cooler in proper sequence can benefit the final temps.

 

I can concur, on my 2011 (first gen) the bottom line feeds the cooler and top line is return.

 

Only cost me about a day on my install, luckily I had a magnafine filter I could put in place when I cut the wrong line. The magnafine filter evidently will flow both ways as my magical blow test told me, but the spin on remote filter/thermostat might of given me catastrophic results had I gotten the flow direction incorrect. Checked the flow direction about four times already and once or twice more once I complete the job..

 

The Magnefine filter is directional! Follow the arrow on the side. If installed backwards, the "bypass" feature will not function.

 

Yep, it's directional and has an arrow, but you can scientifically blow through it both ways. Think maybe I got the arrow going the correct way...

 

Think maybe I got the arrow going the correct way...

 

So I tackled this task today...... Was it worth it? Read on....

So any mod has a risk / reward factor. In this case I'm gaining filtration, at the risk of a hose popping off or other issue with fluid leaks.
It started well, used my tiny cutter to take out 6" of hardline. ( The Magnefine filter is 5", tip to tip)

Then I hooked up some hoses and started the car, to confirm which way the fluid is flowing

Without question, on a 2020 Traverse, the UPPER hardline, is the RETURN line.

The Magnefine filter must be installed correctly in the direction of flow. There is a bypass feature inside, so if the element ever clogs, the bypass will open and fluid will continue to flow. If the Magnefine is installed "backwards", this feature will be eliminated.

So then came what I thought was the easy part. Simple flare job on the hardlines, a few clamps, and I'm done....right?

Wrong. These hardlines are tough! I was going to do a small double flare , which looks like this, but about 1/2 the size. The purpose is to keep the rubber hose from sliding off.

Well, with the confines of what I had to work with, this just didn't happen, which brings me back to my original comment between risk and reward. I didn't want to just leave the hardlines bare, so I did a little single flare. It looks like this.... Not what I wanted, but better than nothing.

Because I only could get a small single flare, I double clamped everything, and here's the finished install.

I'm trying to figure out if this was a waste of time, or not..... so I pull the magnetic drain plug for a look. It has been doing it's job for 8,000 miles / 4 months. Dang! That's allot of crap!

 

The first streak on the left starts off real wet. That is just the oil on the plug. The next two streaks and the wipes at the bottom is all the debris. It's allot more than I was expecting to see, thats for sure.

Keep in mind this is only magnetic the stuff. There are aluminium wear particles as well as friction materials too, that do not show up on the magnet.

Remember what the goal is.... to keep the non-serviceable internal filter as clean as possible.

With that in mind, the magnetic drain plug is only doing 1/3 of the job. The Magnefine filter does the other 2/3 and has an additional magnet to catch whatever the drain plug miss's .....

So yes, I'm happy I added it. No, I'm not happy about the single flare / double flare situation. I'm going to pop off the Magnefine filter in 20k miles to open it up for a look. That gives me plenty of time to come up with a better long term solution for the hose connections.

With all this said.... plenty of Traverses go 100k miles without ever servicing the transmission. Clearly adding the magnetic drainplug and doing periodic servicing is a huge step in extending the transmissions life.

So, perhaps this mod is unnecessary? I wont disagree with those who have that opinion.

 

Here we go.... this will replace the top 90 degree bend perfectly. Then, when I find a nice solution for the bottom fitting it will be like OEM

 

That was quick. Dorman makes a great fitting the goes from 3/8" compression, to 3/8" barbed. I feel much better about this already..... The Dorman part number is : 800-035

 

For those who are curious, this is the internal, non serviceable transmission filter. Notice the color. It's black , from debris, not red from the ATF fluid.

For comparison, here is a new one..... white as snow. This is the goal, to let the Magnefine catch the debris, and keep the internal filter as clean as possible, for as long as possible.

 

I received mine yesterday. Now made in China, however it's still better than no filter at all.

 

Sweet.

Have you decided on an install method yet?

 

I was planning to do this install today until I realized my transmission lines look different than the photos here. There are a couple more bends and some kind of coating/sleeve on the bottom that seems well-adhered. I don't think I have enough straight pipe to cut out to fit the compression fittings and filter.

It's 2018 Enclave Avenir with towing package.

 

I was planning to do this install today until I realized my transmission lines look different than the photos here. There are a couple more bends and some kind of coating/sleeve on the bottom that seems well-adhered. I don't think I have enough straight pipe to cut out to fit the compression fittings and filter.

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It's 2018 Enclave Avenir with towing package.

You should have enough. Here are pics of mine. I would cut the sleeve as far down as I can but make sure to leave enough so the 3/8" tubing compression fitting can reliably clamp. It looks like the Traverse has a bit more room, but I am not positive about it. I would install he filter as close to the top of the return line as you can and see where the bottom fitting fits in. I don't see why you can't loop the rubber trans cooler hose and zip tie it out of harms way, plus you can always cut the hose pieces a little shorter than I did. Also, I did mine after the Traverse sat overnight. When I cut the cooler return line, maybe a cap full of fluid came out. Definitely not enough to worry about the level. HTH

Here are some pics:

10" Piece of Return Line for a "side of the road" repair - if ever needed (but I doubt it):

Installed Filter (also above):

Dorman 3/8" tube to 3/8" barbed fittings.

 

The filter + compression fittings alone measure 9", plus I'll need probably 1-2" of slack minimum just to get everything in place. So with 11" needed, things would get real tight in a hurry. Did y'all have that sleeve thing too? I can't tell if it's just heatshrink that will cut back easily, or if it's glued on. Fingernail test makes no progress. If I can get that off its probably doable.

At this point I've already refilled my fluid. Does the fluid need to be drained to do the install, or is this line empty when the engine is off?

 

Did y'all have that sleeve thing too?

No, I didn't. I think it's protective plastic so the line doesn't rub on the body or any brackets.

No need to drain the fluid. Like I said in my last post, maybe a cap full came out. Not enough to measure. I let mine sit overnight before I worked on it.