update: I was wondering if the wrong oil used or way beyond changing caused sludge or plugged holes causing engine to misbehave. I used motor flush and fresh synthetic oil used. Checked the fuel vapor purge valve, its okay.
The engine starts, idles smooth, no sounds or smoke,...then just dies. It doesnt really stumble, it just dies.I'M NOW thinking it could be the crankshaft positioning sensor. Ive watched several videos that sound familiar. Has anybody had THIS happen? Also, like i said...no codes or engine light. It did flash the engine light right when i got home, but...no sounds or smoke...i really dont think NOW its the chain. Im like 88-90% sure its NOT. It seems like a sensor, fuel delivery, or electrical. BTW,...i did add some STP to the fuel today also.

 

update: I was wondering if the wrong oil used or way beyond changing caused sludge or plugged holes causing engine to misbehave. I used motor flush and fresh synthetic oil used. Checked the fuel vapor purge valve, its okay.
The engine starts, idles smooth, no sounds or smoke,...then just dies. It doesnt really stumble, it just dies.I'M NOW thinking it could be the crankshaft positioning sensor. Ive watched several videos that sound familiar. Has anybody had THIS happen? Also, like i said...no codes or engine light. It did flash the engine light right when i got home, but...no sounds or smoke...i really dont think NOW its the chain. Im like 88-90% sure its NOT. It seems like a sensor, fuel delivery, or electrical. BTW,...i did add some STP to the fuel today also.

So, I had the same problem with mine.. I changed out plugs, coils, fuel injectors.. nothing... 6 months prior of issues I changed out cats.. 3 of them... I got cheap ass ones... they fell apart and plugged my muffler and resonator.. got new ones and all issues went away.... hope this help some one out... had it in garage for 3 weeks... this car is junk.. chevy needs to buy all the cars back from us

 

the 2010 did not require Synthetic. At the time, the requirements were any oil meeting spec GM6094M. Which any quality conventional oil met.
On my 2010, from
0 to 140,000 miles I used nothing but Valvoline Conventional.
140,000 to 150,000 I slowly started to transition to Valvoline High Mileage witch is a blend (syn and conventional).
150,000 to 167,000 ive used Valvoline High mileage.

going forward I will change to Kirkland Full Synthetic. Simply because it is cheaper to buy than Valvolines Conventional or High Mileage.
I do have plenty of used oil analysis that show that the oil was doing a good job. (oil changes at 5000 miles)

My engine does burn oil now. But- on these engines its not a question of if.... but when. Its practically a given they will burn oil as they rack up the miles. It has to do with the Carbon on the valves and carbon breaking off and scoring the cylinder walls over time.

I check my oil level weekly. I keep the oil level to my full level. (The oil level I see after an oil and filter change- thats my full level).

These engines have 2 fuel pumps. 1 low pressure pump in the tank that pushes fuel to the engine. 1 HIGH pressure fuel pump attached to the side of engine. It is run by an extra cam lobe.
I am wondering if one of the pumps is acting up.

I would try to spray some carb cleaner or engine start? and see if the engine continues to run on the spray. if it continues to run on the spray- than you can look into fuel delivery

 

thanks. Sometimes it runs for 15 sec,....sometimes up to a minute. Id probably use a whole can. At this point it sounds like the crank positioning sensor. Im going to pull and test BEFORE throwing down $30.

 

usual timing chain crap. Cost me over $2000 total. Shop wanted to get stupid napa kit,...$1k plus,..but let me order online. Bought kit for half price online and saved $$$

 

ahh got it.
I was thinking 10-30 sec... then turning off. keep us informed

 

I pulled MAF and cleaned and also cleaned throttle body. I started and pulled MAF connector to see if it actually idled and didnt die,..nope it died after so many seconds of running smooth. I had watched video that suggested that simple test. After pulling the MAF connector i did however get codes finally. I got 4 codes. Im guessing though they might be from me pulling connector. Two were related to MAF, and one was related to purge valve. I checked purge valve by unconnecting power and hose to see if stuck open pulling vacuum,...nope. So i assumed it was okay.
I did notice a few new things though. I noticed a few times a slow "tick" sound on backside of engine, possibly under valve cover. It didnt last whole time engine running though,...AND sometime i heard it with engine OFF. The engine would start, idle smooth(no sound),....THEN...the idle would drop 2-3 times ( drop, up to idle...drop, up to idle...drop, up to idle)....then a few seconds later die. After each time it dies, i hear a single click or something on that backside. Its almost like something closing or maybe a busted part(sensor, rocker arm...??). I dont know, its supposed to go to the shop on the 2nd,...but i really dont have the extra $$ for a pricy job. At least it doesnt sound like its up front in chain area...

 

Hi longracing25, did you ever find a cause or have any updates on this problem? I am having the exact same problem. No codes, 2010 Traverse. Took it into the shop, they've tried everything and I'm looking at a $1600 bill with no solution (I changed the front HP pump, same issue, they changed the rear tank fuel pump, changed oil, same. They checked sensors, replaced cam position sensor after trying another MAF sensor and checking other sensors) They checked tons of wiring and things for faults and eventually tried a new computer module, and the issue persists. They don't think it's the timing chain, last resort is possibly an accelerator sensor of some kind. The RPM's go a bit weird before it dies, the symptoms are the exact same as what you describe (no codes). I'm about to trade it in and just eat the cost (it was worth probably 4,700, then I got new tires and all this recent work and still looking to have to get rid of it). Wondering if Chevy would do anything for me (like give more than salvage for it). Thanks

 

If it just dies I would lean toward a loose connection in the ignition wiring or there is a connector under the drivers seat on the underbody which may have some corrosion on the pins. Check your engine compartment fuse box and make sure everything is tight, take it apart and make sure the pins are straight and clean. You should get a Bluetooth scanner for a smartphone or tablet so you can check vitals , fuel line pressures for one thing.

 

usual timing chain crap. Cost me over $2000 total. Shop wanted to get stupid napa kit,...$1k plus,..but let me order online. Bought kit for half price online and saved $$$

 

Hey do you work on vehicles I have a 2010 Chevy Traverse that we've been having issues with for quite a few months we've done all kinds of stuff to it I was running fine until it wasn't and it went from like it hardly had any power we're in the codes said something about the Cadillac converters change both also put four sensors in there did the whole complete exhaust system while we was down there did a whole complete tune-up now it's talking it's another sensor something to do with the camshaft

 

Thanks for the replies (autoash8992, the pictures of your vehicle were not useful)

Experienced mechanic looked at it and they collected data and had experts from GM look at it. Had them all stumped with no code to go on, and none of the usual symptoms leading to timing chain. He said possibly an accelerator pedal sensor, or a component inside the front end (something about replacing the timing chain if we were going to open that up as the engine would have to come out). The guy looked at everything (including fuses and electrical) and gave a big discount because he was unable to find a specific cause and fix it (mostly this was because we had no codes / clues to go on, and the behavior, tach going a bit nuts before engine dying, usually coming to a stop / low idle, was odd and none of the related symptoms were there, that would point to common causes of these failure symptoms). Cylinder compression, fuel line pressure, grounds, these were the first things they checked (and corrected). The tank had a bunch of sediment in it, they cleaned that out while replacing fuel pump in rear. They tried another intake, ECM, and looked at lots of data which didn't point to anything conclusive. I could go on. I got the vehicle and rode it home, had to restart several times while slowing to a stop sign, had to two foot it to keep it going. Now I'm going to limp it around and hopefully get it to throw a code.

 

Ok also check the fuse box in behind the glovebox, especially if water gets in there there can be all sorts of problems. I believe that the engine staying on after the key is removed is one issue related to water in there.

 

Someone else posted somewhere that the ECM itself was the issue. But, I think they said they were getting wacky codes, and chasing them all down did nothing to fix it. Then replaced the ECM and viola, all fixed.

 

i told wife...i wish i could put my older chevy 229cu v6 in it. Take out all computer and sensors....ahh to dream...lol

 

so I have a 2010 chevy traverse with all cylinder misfire and shut off after start. and fuel pump requesting MIL. checked codes all said injectors need cleaning or something. I replaced the fuel pump because it was cheaper and easier to do. but it's still doing the same thing. starts up very rough idle and check engine flashing. anyone have any recommendations before I throw money into the injectors

 

Well you can try a bottle of techron to see if it cleans the injectors.

 

tried some sea foam but I think it made it worse

 

Did you ever find out what was wrong with your car because my daughter has a 2010 Chevy Traverse and it's pretty much doing the same thing some codes come up but every time you fix something something else pops up put two Converters on there which I didn't know cars had two of them put four sensors put complete exhaust system did a complete total tune-up did the oil change changed all the filters still having issues it seems like once we fixed it like it was getting worse now it says something about a sensor with the camshaft