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60 Posts
I am having a similar problem with my 2009 Traverse, but mine has about 190K miles on it. My check engine light has been on for over a year. My mechanic has checked over my car, and found nothing wrong with it. I was getting the same codes as you are. He has cleared the codes many times, but they come right back on. I have not seen anything about the reluctor / crankshaft sensor.

A couple of months ago I changed the spark plugs, ignition coils, and gasket. It helped to increase my gas mileage, ran smoother, etc.

Last week my vehicle started acting funny, lost power and then just died. I had it towed to my mechanic. He said that he has had some success with doing an oil flush. He told me that sometimes the oil can get metal particles in it. He was going to do an oil change and add ESP and MOA additives. He quoted it as $725.00. Good Luck,
My 2 cents,
The filter screens on the two solenoids that adjust the timing chain are plugged with "gunk", that is, the solenoids that advance or retard the timing of the valves opening and closing on this VVT engine, (Variable Valve Timing) restrict oil flow, and give a slow response time,PULL THE SOLENOIDS AND CLEAN THE FILTERS...THEN REINSTALL THEM.... ....... Let me explain

The intake and exhaust solenoids use engine oil like a hydraulic fluid, to push a cam, which adjusts the timing of when To open and when to close the intake valves and exhaust valves.

When the solenoids are electrically activated, by the car computer, the solenoids changes the flow of engine oil thru them And the pressure of the engine oil rotates the camshafts thus changing when the intake and exhaust valves open and close, retarding or advancing them..

Since the check valve that opens and closes the oil flow in the solenoid, would not seal properly if the tiniest piece of metal got stuck between the ball and the ball seat, The solenoid comes with a couple of "cigar band" filters to filter the engine oil And prevent any contamination from entering the solenoid
However, these cigar band filters have a very small holes of about 100 microns in size,,,, And these cigar band filters will become plugged with "thick oil chunks", the kind of sludgy oil this engine gets because of its poor PCV design...
What is happening for example, is you start the car, the solenoid opens to retard the timing for idle, but the cold oil is not flowing quickly enough through the plugged up screen cloth on the solenoid, thus the computer throws a crankshaft is not in the right position code..p0017. When oil is warmer, then oil flows thru the plugged up cigar band filters, and valve timing is fine.
Also the car might stumble, at say 30 to 40 mph, as the computer electrically fires up solenoid to advances timing, but the response time is not fast enough because oil is not flowing through the plugged filter screens fast enough as the computer expects it to, and the engine "stumbles", even if it does not throw a code.
The engine oil, and subsequent oil pressure,
is SLOW in flowing thru the plugged screen cloth on solenoid
And engine oil pressure is not able to advance engine timing, fast enough..... hence a stumble.

There is a post on called "Traverse Stumbles on light acceleration No Codes"
where a brilliant "testbob" disassembled
Then cleaned the filter screens on the 2 solenoids....
( one solenoid controls the intake valves, the other solenoids controls the exhaust valves)
He actually has 2 separate posts on the same topic, look for them, read his comment and his solution, he fixed his problem. Here is One post

His 2nd post is a detailed summary of his findings.

I would suggest, removing each of these solenoids and clean the cigar band filters or buy 4 new VVT solenoids
In my opinion, use 100 percent synthetic oil, dexos approved, And you change your oil before your oil monitor hits 33 percent or 5000 miles, ( 100% on oil life monitor should equal 7500 miles) Then these cigar band filter screens will not get plugged up.

621 Posts
I have been suggesting members on the Lambda forums with unexplained performance issues to check and clean their screens for a month now. It would be nice to hear back from them to let us know if they are taking the advice and reporting back one way or the other but so far I haven't seen any updates.
Also, my theory is that owners who run Dino, especially with longer oil change intervals run into more performance issues then those who use Synthetic. One member had "Free" oil changes from the dealer, but the wouldn't change it until he was down under 5% on the OLM, it wound up costing him a set of chains in his opinion.
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