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Discussion Starter #21
hats off to you Trick. Ive done this once myself, with a master tech beside me and on a lift. Obviously in my chevy dealership days

Thank you!!

It was an interesting trip!

But, I think it is possible by anyone that has a bit of experience.

Again, the big part of the problem is having the right tools.

I wouldn't want to do it with just some hand wrenches.

--Trick414
 

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Discussion Starter #22
A little bump while this is still fresh in my mind.

As noted, I traded the Traverse and got the Colorado. So, in less than a year I won't remember anything!

--Trick414
 

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Reviving an older thread here ... Great write-up, thank you!

Since I'm stuck at home right now due to the coronavirus, I was thinking it might be a good time to tackle this project. We've got a 2011 Traverse whose timing chain made it 218,000 miles but we are now getting the P0008 code and some stumble on light throttle which I assume is related.

Trick414, do you still remember anything in case I run into any questions?
 

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Yes, I can still probably remember most of it, plus I'm sure some others will jump in.

Ask away!
Wow very nice of you to come back and continue to offer help over a year later. Good on you.

While @adberns dives into the project tell us about the Colorado! I've loved those trucks for a while now.
 

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My hat is off to those tackling the job. As I get older, I find I have to pay people to do the things I use to do. By the time our 2012 gets to this point, if it does, it will either go to the salvage yard or one of the grand kids and let them do it. 125,000 miles now. We bought it almost new, so I've had control of the service so we still don't use much oil between oil changes.
 

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Heya all!

My 2010 Traverse with 120k miles hit me with another P0008 code.

I had the chains replaced in 2015 with only 55k miles on it.

I was living in the city back then, so obviously didn't put a whole lot of miles on it in the first 5 years. I actually slid in under the warranty period (like 4 years and 9 months or something).

Anyway, right after that I retired and moved to the country.

I put a lot more miles on it in only 3 years!

Of course, it wasn't covered under warranty, and the dealership wanted $3200 or so to do the job.

I have a good certified mechanic buddy that could do it for about $2400.

Since it wasn't worth anything either fixed or broken, I figured I'd tackle the job myself.

I'll post up a quick video I made talking about the tools I used as soon as it gets done uploading to YouTube... sometime in the next week!!

Overall, it was a big pain, but certainly doable by anyone that has ever done any major work like restoring an old car or rebuilding an old 350.

I think the video will be a big help for anyone planning on doing it.

Also, repairprocedures.com has the factory service manual online. You can rent it for $10 per day.

I know there is a copy of a service manual out there you can get for free, and I did track it down, but it's for a 2009 Buick. There were enough differences that I suspect that manual is for the older 3.6. I wouldn't suggest using that one, it's not that helpful. The online version at repairprocedures was perfect.

The Cloyes video on YouTube is a huge help. Once you get to that point of the job, follow that video exactly and the replacement of the chains is actually pretty anti-climatic. Getting to the chains is the challenge.

However, once I got all the tools like I show in the video, it actually wasn't too bad. I was waiting on a few of them to come to me via Amazon/UPS/Etc., but once everything came together it was ok.

I think it took me about 20 hours by myself. I did space it out over nearly a week, as I was waiting on tools and also didn't want to get frustrated.

Now that I have the right tools, and know what I'm doing, I could probably do it in 8 or 10 hours. Especially if I had a buddy to help with some of the tasks.

Anyway, check out the video (once it FINALLY uploads) and ask away. I'll try to help.

I ended up trading it in on a 2019 Colorado. It has the 3.6 as well, but it's the new 4th-Gen version. It was interesting comparing the two engines, as they obviously share some common ancestry.

I did read about the new engine and it seems like they fixed a lot of problems with the oiling and VVT systems.

--Trick414

So what were the indicators that you needed to replace the timing chain (both times)?
 

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Hi, I just bought another traverse off a lot after mine in mint condition was totalled. I need help a day after I drove it away I got the dreaded code. I spent all my money buying the car and need to do this myself. I do have a decent amount of mechanical knowledge. I have my basic ASE in light duty. But this is whole other evil. Did you use grey gasket maker? And where. Did you rotate the crankshaft back to the left for stage 2? I need details. I want to walk into this with my head high and walk out the same way. Please and thank you.
 

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If you go to the Cloyes website, they have a video of the whole procedure, out of the vehicle of course. It is a pain to do it in the vehicle, time consuming but doable.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Sorry all, I didn't get any notifications that there were new posts.

I did use some gasket maker on some certain parts, but I can't remember what type and what parts exactly.

In one of my initial posts, I mentioned that the repair website was invaluable to walk you through the process.

Again, don't try to use the one you find online for free, as that is for a 2009 (Gen 1) engine. It's different enough to not be helpful. Spend the 15 bucks and get the rental for the full service manual.

The Cloyes website, or search Youtube for the Cloyes video, will show you exactly what to do.

As I mentioned, once you get to the the timing chain replacement itself, it's pretty anti-climatic. The "fun" part is getting everything apart to get the timing cover off.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
What was the purpose of the removal of the cat and starter flywheel?
If you do remove the cat and starter, you can use the flywheel holding tool, both when you do the chains as well as when you put the flywheel bolt back in at the end.

I've heard that it is not necessary. Like I mentioned, my Traverse lived in Texas. All bolts and nuts spun right off. So, removing the cat and starter wasn't a big deal for me. It's just made life a bit easier and less stressful to have the crankshaft locked up, so the cams weren't moving around.

I'm not sure you can move them all that easily anyway, but with the flywheel tool as well as the cam shaft holding tools, I knew my timing was still dead on.
 

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Hey Trick414, I'm curious what kind of oil and the change interval you were running on your Traverse. Did it have any sludge when you tore it down?

I had a 2009 I ran to 100,000 miles before I traded it in on my Acadia and never had an issue other than a water pump done under warranty. I noticed a couple of times checking the oil at fuel up, that it looked a little dirty before the oil change interval came up on the vehicle computer, so I changed it early if need be. Always ran synthetic and did oil changes myself. I have a theory that some bad oil filters and dirty oil exacerbated the problem these things were having with the oiling of the timing chain. Seems weird some can go 100's of thousands of miles with no timing chain problems, yet others can't make it 40 thousand.

Also thank you for taking the time to make the video. I hope I never need it, but I'll be in your debt if I do.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hey Trick414, I'm curious what kind of oil and the change interval you were running on your Traverse. Did it have any sludge when you tore it down?

I had a 2009 I ran to 100,000 miles before I traded it in on my Acadia and never had an issue other than a water pump done under warranty. I noticed a couple of times checking the oil at fuel up, that it looked a little dirty before the oil change interval came up on the vehicle computer, so I changed it early if need be. Always ran synthetic and did oil changes myself. I have a theory that some bad oil filters and dirty oil exacerbated the problem these things were having with the oiling of the timing chain. Seems weird some can go 100's of thousands of miles with no timing chain problems, yet others can't make it 40 thousand.

Also thank you for taking the time to make the video. I hope I never need it, but I'll be in your debt if I do.(y)

I was running the absolute worst oil change interval possible. Basically, I was following the computer. When it yelled at me, I took it in within a few days.

Now we know that was a problem, as they updated the oil change indicator, basically in half if I remember right. At that time, which was around when the first set of chains were replaced, I started following that interval.

I can't remember exactly what oil I used, but I'm thinking it was Valvoline semi-synthetic at my local quick-change oil shop.

Basically, I didn't really care that much about it. Oil had gotten so much better, and the computer was supposed to keep up with it, that I didn't pay any attention to it. I don't think anyone realized what the direct injection issues were going to cause to oil changes.

As much of a car guy as I am, my daily runner wasn't a big priority. I didn't plan on keeping it forever. The only reason I even did the timing chains DIY was because it wasn't worth anything either way. I figured it would be a fun project, and it was to me since I was in OK shape financially that I wasn't upset if it was worth zero dollars.

I had it seven years and 120k miles, I figured that was good enough. Sure, I'd like it to go longer and keep some value, but we all know that cars are a money sink.

Of course, on my newish 2019 Colorado with the latest version of the same engine, I have been diligent on the oil changes. I hate to blow an engine simply because I didn't do oil changes. I didn't do them on the Traverse because the thinking at the time was that the oil advances did not require it. The problems with DI weren't really known at the time. Or, maybe they were, but I certainly wasn't following it that closely.

As far as sludge when I tore it down... I can't really say. I didn't notice anything over the top when I drained the oil. But, it's possible I had the oil changed before I did the chain service. As mentioned in the video, the oil control valves for the cams were a bit dodgy as far as I can tell, but I don't really know that they were all that bad. They were a little slow to actuate, but maybe that is within specs. Hard to say.

All I know is that I was not diligent in my oil changes and I had to replace the chains at 55k and 120k. I wasn't over the top late on the changes, either, so take that for what it is worth. The computer told me to change, and I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
How do you adjust the timing if it is off on bank one?
I can't remember exactly, but I just remember watching the Cloyes video and you will get it right.

I think I had to play with it a bit, and rotated the engine over several times making sure the timing marks came up appropriately. But, really, it's just like in the video.

I'm assuming that bank one "jumped a tooth" or something? If so, I would just throw the chain on it, rotate it around with the crankshaft (I used the old dampener bolt) and see where it comes up. Make some temporary marks, pull the chain, rotate the crank a bit, and put the chain back on. Dial it in until you get it all to line up.

If Bank 2 already has the new chain on it and the marks line up, you don't have to worry about it. It will stay timed as you rotate the engine.
 

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Thank you so much I was so proud of myself until I saw how bad it was and was horrified. All the rest of the timing was perfect except for bank one closest to the firewall.
 

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