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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Thanks for taking the time to read this. I found a 2013 gray LTZ that fits all the requirements I’m looking for as my primary family suv.

It has 123k miles, clean title and CarFax. Doesn’t look like it has had any major maintenance done other than routine oil and tires.

I’ve read hundreds of reviews and forums and I’m still mixed on reliability overall for this model year. Do you think it’s a good buy if I can get it for 10k? Any issues I should I ask the dealer about?

tha
 

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Dont know if youre in the rust belt. SO cant comment on rust.
You could feel better if you can see that it had timely oil changes. say 3000 to 5000 mile range.
 
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Research " Transmission Wave Plate Failure"... to help you make a decision...


 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dont know if youre in the rust belt. SO cant comment on rust.
You could feel better if you can see that it had timely oil changes. say 3000 to 5000 mile range.
Thank you! Not in the rust belt and it does look like routine maintenance done timely but I was hoping it would have major preventative maintenance done and I can’t tell.
 

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Research " Transmission Wave Plate Failure"... to help you make a decision...


Good vid. Thanks for the tip. I’ll do so!
 

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2013 and up:much better than the model from 2009-2012. A lots of problems were solved from what you want from 2013-2017.
 
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I also agree, the later model years corrected a number of the known issues in the '09-'11 timeframe, most notably the timing chain, power steering, and trans waveplate problems. I don't think 10K is too bad a price, considering any of the larger GM truck-based SUV's are going for almost twice that with similar mileage.
 

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I also agree, the later model years corrected a number of the known issues in the '09-'11 timeframe, most notably the timing chain, power steering, and trans waveplate problems. I don't think 10K is too bad a price, considering any of the larger GM truck-based SUV's are going for almost twice that with similar mileage.
Thank you for the validation. The lowest they want to come down is 11,500 but I also have a trade in worth about 3,00-3,500 so I am thinking this could work for us as long as it’s reliable. I do also plan on having chevy do a pre-sale inspection for $250. Figured it’s worth it just to make sure there are not huge issues I’m not aware of.
 

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Dont forget that the LTZ is the top of the line in the Traverse. There is a big difference in resale value between a LS and a LTZ Model. Leather seats, twin exhaust, a lots of luxuries that you dont get in the LS.
 
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Dont forget that the LTZ is the top of the line in the Traverse. There is a big difference in resale value between a LS and a LTZ Model. Leather seats, twin exhaust, a lots of luxuries that you dont get in the LS.
Great point. That’s why I am definitely interested in this one albeit the mileage is a bit higher than I was looking for. We won’t drive too much so I think if I keep the maintenance up it should last another 100k at least, right?
 

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Ok guys. Update for you - does this change the opinion?

Appreciate the expertise here -

This LTZ has everything - fully loaded with even better after market roofracks. Tires 10k ago. Tow package, climate, you name it. We need the tow too as we are moving soon.

Just had chevy dealership inspect it for $250 and they found oil pan leak and lines needing replaced. Everything else passed well with no issues noted.

The dealer selling will do the repair for $1500 with their preferred auto mechanic (reputable one in town) vs. chevy quoting at $4,300

I can also trade my used Volt for 3k. It has 163k mileage and needs a bit of fixes so it fair.

So total breakdown:

123k mileage
12,250 purchase price after they fix the oil line/pan issue (have to drop the whole engine
 

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how severe is the oil pan leak?
is the bottom of the oil pan shiny wet with oil and dripping
Or just signs of oil with lots of dust sticking to it?

I believe to replace the seal, the engine or cradle has to be lifted slightly... something is in the way.
 
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ok here is an example..
exhaust, AC bolts, and other stuff has to be moved.

 
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how severe is the oil pan leak?
is the bottom of the oil pan shiny wet with oil and dripping
Or just signs of oil with lots of dust sticking to it?

I believe to replace the seal, the engine or cradle has to be lifted slightly... something is in the way.
They said it was bad. Whole thing will be replaced along with the lines. Would you buy it?
 

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If it is only a small swetting around the gasket I would leave it like that. As all the engines gets older there are always a small oil swetting around the gaskets including the heads gaskets. For the lines if there is no corrosion it can comes from their connections.
 
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