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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 Traverse that needed the throttle and valves cleaned (getting misfires lately), and I've seen good reviews for the GDI/intake valve cleaner. Couldn't find CRC, but Seafoam had good reviews as well, so went with it. Followed the instructions and came back from the hot soak to find the car won't start. Won't even turn over. It had a couple weak attempts and starting, but ultimately nothing. Not the battery as everything lights up no problem. Not sure about the starter, but it seems like it wants to start. Took the plugs out, and they're pretty well cooked. 2 of them had some oil as well. While I have yet to get new plugs, I'm wondering if I should expect new plugs to solve the problem, or is there something else going on. Seems to me that I'd at least expect it to turn over decently if spark was the only thing missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Charge or jump the battery to see if car starts. I suspect either battery. bad connections or starter. The fact that the lights come on doesn't indicate the battery will supply enough amperage to turn over the engine.
Good call. Battery is fine, and while the plugs need to be replaced, the leading candidate right now is the starter. With a charged battery and plugs removed, it does not crank over. You can hear the starter solenoid clicking, but nothing else. I have one more attempt before calling it on the starter. I'm going to short the starter relay to see if I can force it to engage, but I'm expecting that to fail and I'll be tackling that task this weekend.

Just seems weirdly coincidental that the starter failed following a hot soak from the Seafoam. Have nothing to do with each other.
 

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I'd still vote battery. Many posts here similar to yours. Car OK one minute, won't start the next. Almost always turns out to be a bad battery. Traverses seem to be very picky about poor batteries. Charging a bad battery just gives you a slightly better bad battery. Batteries are typically good for 5 yrs or so, so for a 2012, you should be about ready for battery #3 anyway. (If you're still on the original battery, you've been very, very lucky - buy a lottery ticket when you buy the new battery.)
 

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quick test.
Check the CRNK relay in the fuse box.
I began to get no start or just a click.
subsequent tries it cranked.
One time I used remote start- while standing next to the car- I heard a CLICK from the starter- and then a fraction of a second later- whirrr whirrr-- and it started.
This led me to believe it was a relay issue. Bad/worn/buildup on contacts.

So I swapped relays in the fuse box- and ever since- its cranked fine.
I believe I swapped the relay for the rear defroster grid.
they use the same relay.
Double check that the numbers on the relay match- before swapping.

Good luck!
 

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I agree with greentraverse and rbarrios--do the no cost options before sinking $$$ into a new starter. Completely rule out the battery with a jump start and relay with relay swap. Those are common, easy-to-complete events that will either correct or narrow the corrective actions required. Start simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I agree with greentraverse and rbarrios--do the no cost options before sinking $$$ into a new starter. Completely rule out the battery with a jump start and relay with relay swap. Those are common, easy-to-complete events that will either correct or narrow the corrective actions required. Start simple.
Jump start did not work. I also swapped the relay with the rear defogger right next to the starter relay and then as one final attempt, I bypassed the relay to force the starter on (
). Nothing worked so far. Only thing I haven't checked is the wiring, but getting to the starter to check that will be part of the task of replacing the starter. I order the part and will check at the starter before I disconnect it. My big issue right now is deciding on how to get to the starter. I've seen 3 approaches: 1) remove the engine mount right next to the starter; 2) remove the cat; and 3) as a mod of 2, remove the cat and exhaust header, allowing room to remove the starter from the top. I like the ease of access of 3, but that can go south quickly if I snap a bolt, and that involves more bolts. Currently I'm leaning toward 1 as I've snapped those lower cat studs before (when replacing the y-pipe). Snap a stud and I'll have to get it towed as I don't have the tools to remove a snapped stud.

Thanks for the help.
 

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thank you for the video.
With the relay swap and direct jump....
the sound the started is making sure sounds like the starter is trying but just cant turn.
Since you last turned off and did the decarbonning- the engine was fine.
So yeah, thats the next step I would do. starter.
Have you done the old trick.... Ive done it before too--- taking a hammer or lug wrench to a stuck starter....
I did this several times on my more accesible 70 chevy....wacking it a few times and yeah it started.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thank you for the video.
With the relay swap and direct jump....
the sound the started is making sure sounds like the starter is trying but just cant turn.
Since you last turned off and did the decarbonning- the engine was fine.
So yeah, thats the next step I would do. starter.
Have you done the old trick.... Ive done it before too--- taking a hammer or lug wrench to a stuck starter....
I did this several times on my more accesible 70 chevy....wacking it a few times and yeah it started.

Good luck
I will have to try that. Haven't yet as the starter isn't very accessible. Would it be possible without removing something and the car's sitting on the ground? It's actually in my sloped driveway, so I can't even put it up where it's at. I have to let it roll into my garage to get it flat, and it'd be easier if I could get it running even just once.
 

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You can try using a long screwdriver and hitting the end with a hammer or something.
on the old cars- the starter was right there-- get on your back and wack...
I still remember the time I had to do that at a gas station one night- we were out cruising.... wack wack wack--- vrooommm.
 
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