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Discussion Starter #1
2010 Traverse LT AWD

Hello Friends,

If someone has solutions to this or ideas that would be amazing. I've searched everywhere and can't seem to find a solution.

I was driving 55MPH the other day when I lost all power and check engine light started flashing. As soon as I was able to pull off to the shoulder, I checked codes immediately.

P0300, P0301, P0303, P0305 (Misfires on bank 1, cylinders 1-3-5)
P0342, P0368 (Camshaft A and B on Bank 1)
P0102 (MAF A Circuit Low)

Before all of this, I was throwing just codes
P2097 (Post CAT Trim Rich) and
P0119 (Coolant Temp Sensor Intermittent)

I've check and changed both Camshaft Sensors, along with Bank 1 Downstream O2 Sensor.

I've taken off the intake manifold, and the valves definitely have carbon buildup on them, but would this really cause the engine not to work properly?

The timing chains were replaced 3500 Miles ago, along with a faulty Cam Phaser on bank 1.
The car has run smoothly since then, except for the CAT and Coolant Sensor codes going off.
I bought this vehicle used about 3800 miles ago. All new plugs, and coils seem fine.
It looks like the same O2 sensor was replaced before, or the pig tail on the sensor broke on its own.

When I idle the vehicle, the exhaust pipe will be super hot for bank 2, but isn't even really warm for bank 1.

What would cause just one bank to misfire on all three cylinders at once? Does anyone have any solutions? I'm running out of things to check. My mechanical knowledge is far from superior, but I can do a lot of work on my own with the aid of YouTube and forums like this.
 

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Here are images of cylinders 1 3 and 5. Also, I put a wrench on the crank bolt and it seems like there is no movement on the valves on bank 1. Could this be a timing chain issue on bank 1? And if so, why aren't any of the valves bent?
 

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The carbon buildup does seem to be excessive in my opinion. It may in fact be the root of your problems, but I am no expert, Hopefully someone with more expertise can comment. In the meantime you may try cleaning those with either walnut blasting or the CRC cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I found the problem with cylinders 1 3 and 5 not working. I do not know what initially caused this, but I'm pulling it all apart now to see how much damage was caused. It seems like, so far, that bank 2 and the main gear are fine and only the bank 1 chain snapped, but I have no idea what initially caused it.
 

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Wow.....

thanks for the pic.
 

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Just throwing this out there, if the cats are clogged, the pressure may have great enough for the chain to break. Anybody else want to speculate?
 

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I was only getting that one code, and it was very intermittent. I don't believe there is a clogged CAT, wouldn't it throw more specific codes than POST CAT too rich if it were the catalytic converter? I do, however, appreciate any feedback as I am planning on fixing this and putting it all back together. Not sure how doable/salvageable that is until I get it torn down some more. I finally just got the timing chain cover off of the vehicle while the motor is still in the vehicle.
 

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Also, wouldn't the car overheat if the CATs were not operating? Here's another picture of what angle I could get on the chain without the cover. Main and bank 2 secondary chains are fine and it seemed as if that part of the motor was operating fine while it was running.
 

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NEVER use a solvent based engine running cleaner with ANY GDI engine!!!

On Coloradofans dot com website
Under title "Intake valve cleaning results and learn from my mistake", A person called "GDI" says the following.....

NEVER use a solvent based "engine running" cleaner with ANY GDI engine!!!
"On tear down we see the scouring from solvent based cleaners. There is never a case where engine damage will not occur!!"

GDI deposits are very hard and abrasive crystalline and a small portion will be loosened with a solvent based engine running cleaning. Those that are broken loose are similar to pouring some sand in your intake as the hard abrasive particles cause scouring and damage.

The smaller ones are forced between the piston and the cylinder walls, and the scouring may be minor, it is still damage and increases with every treatment.

The scouring caused by the smaller particles forced between the piston and cylinder wall is generally not severe enough the first time to notice the increased blow-by, but is cumulative over time as more cleanings art performed

And that does not take the catalytic converter into consideration. The debris and solvent when it hits the red hot catalyst strata causes it to shatter and clog

ONLY a proper manual intake valve cleaning will be safe and not cause damage to the engine. ( like walnut shell blasting)

That ^^^ is what "gdi" says,
"RESULTS IN SCOURING then INCREASE BLOWBY "
go read his analysis for yourself, and decide for yourself if you will use a solvent based valve cLeaner on a running engine .

I will add, my guess, that scouring = oil consumption
 

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My 2012 Traverse with 80k miles,
"had" a similar build up of carbon on intake valves as those pictures ^^^ posted above.
I say "had" because now their is no carbon build up on them anymore ....
Precision diagnostics in Plainfield IL walnut blasted the 6 pairs of intake valves, for less then $500, ( including a new $20 intake valve gasket)

In my opinion,
Carbon on intake valves falling into combustion chamber is a cause of LSPI, ( misfires , engine knock).
And
All GDI engines with carbon build up on intake valves,
==>will eventually consume oil, <==
because carbon will eventually fall off intake valves into combustion chamber
then scour cylinder walls creating "oil leak paths",
jamming compression rings,
And increasing crankcase pressure,
And facilitating the process of the small holes in the oil control ring getting plugged up.
 

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That gentleman, GDI, ( see a couple posts up)
Is probably Tracy Lewis.....

He has many videos on utube, and has decades of automotive experience
Decide for yourself if he is credible, and if you will use crc or equivalent in a running engine treatments...

Tracy Lewis giving his back ground....
 

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I do agree that a catch can would help. I put a basic can on my 2008 Outlook after I had a lot of PCV issues with throttle the body freezing in sub zero weather. With the catch can installed, it trapped milkshake ingredients which would otherwise be introduced into the air intake, throttle body and into cylinders. The truck was running pretty good when I sold it with 212,000 miles on it, I usually used off brand gasoline with a bottle of Techron now and then. I think I will have to look into this catch can for my 2015.
 
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