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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished up installing an eBay special reverse sensor in our 2010 LS FWD. The install went fairly easy. I have a bit of experience in tooling, but not much. Most of my research was done on Youtube. I placed a bid and won the kit for $15.00 plus $5.00 shipping. When initially pricing this out from the dealer I received the expected price, "over priced." I called local audio shops and they ranged between $275.00 to $450.00 installed. Hopefully this write up will be helpful and will save others from the wrath of dealer pricing.
I knew when I was bidding on the kit that it would come with gloss black sensors and had a gut feeling that it would not come with connectors. After receiving the kit I went to a local auto part store and picked up a can of of Dupli-Color Dark Charcoal bumper coating, quick slicer connectors, and assorted rings (which I did not need). This all totaled just over $13.00. Up to $33.00 so far. I cleaned the sensors with an alcohol swab then sanded them down with 1000 grit sandpaper. I taped the rears of the sensor and spray painted the front of the sensors. I allowed them to dry for 24hrs.

Tools used: Composite interior panel set (if you don't have these, I'd recommend getting a set, I used it a lot), big common screwdriver, headlamp, wire hanger, power drill, supplied boar bit, pen, marker, utility knife, wire strippers, low adhesive blue tape, electrical tape, tape measure, 18 gauge wire, and iPhone (information at your finger tips, isn't it great?) Not pictured. Tie downs, silicone, Elmer's rubber cement glue and alcohol swabs. The composite blue interior panel set was purchased at a local auto parts store awhile back. Never used them until now.

Before starting I took a peek below and ran my hand on the backside of the bumper checking for clearance for the sensors. I cleaned off the bumper then ran low adhesive blue tape along the top of the bumper where the sensors would be placed. After the tape was laid I marked the center of the bumper. From center I measured out 12 1/2" to the left and made a vertical line. Then I measured 12" to the left from the last vertical line. I measured the passenger side in same manor. I rested the tape measure lip on the top side of the bumper and measured an inch down for my horizontal line, which gave me my drilling point. The kit is supplied with a boar bit for plastic bumpers. I used a nail to center punch the bumper so that the drill bit would not dance around. Let the drilling begin. After drilling I cleaned up the holes with a sharp utility knife. Be careful not to bevel the edge, stay level.


Each sensor is numbered. Sensor 1 started on the driver side and I just worked my way down to sensor 4 ending on the passenger side. Snapping the sensors into place was a snap. Keep in mind there is a lip on the sensor that directs the ultra sonic waves. Youtube research indicates to place the lip towards the top. These can be adjusted after the install.

Routing the sensor wires in to the interior required a wire hanger, blue tape, and the removal of few things. Route the sensor wires over the reinforcement bar mount on the driver's side using a wire hanger and some blue tape. Remove the panel for the jack on the driver's side. Clear out anything in there to give you working space. On the interior wall you will notice a black rectangular plastic cover, pull this off. Then you will notice a round grommet, pull that out. Take your wire hanger and make a small hook on the end with some pliers. Feed the wire hanger through the hole until it reaches the ground (not much finesse in this, just a bunch of gentle stabbing). Blue tape a sensor wire and pull it up. Do this until all four are fed through. Make a small slit on the back side of the grommet using a utility knife and feed the sensor wires through one at a time. Pull each wire leaving a bit of slack below. Clean up the wires below and secure with tie downs. Re-install the round grommet and dab some silicone where the sensor wires were fed through. Electrical tape up the sensor wires together every other 6". Place the sensor wires through the black plastic rectangular piece then re-install that black plastic piece. The pics will show where I placed the brain of the system. The kit provides Velcro adhesive pads to attach the brain to the automobile.






I was going to try and wire this to the OEM wire harness but there was just not enough work space, so I had to take power from the reverse light. I removed the driver's side reverse light. I used a decent sized common screw driver and put some blue tape on the tip. On the bottom side of the reverse light is a tab that wraps around the edge of the tailgate. I wedged the screwdriver head in the gap (snug up against a tab) then pried away from the tailgate. I did this on each side of the tabs until they popped off. The plastic on this section of the reverse is not your typical plastic to were it would crack or shatter, it has some flex to it. Once popped I lifted and pulled out at the same time, and in no time the reverse lights were off. I did some research on the internet and Chevy tends to use the light green wire for it's reverse lights and as the hot wire (my electrical tester did not work). I had some red 18 gauge wire lying around and I measured it out and cut two wires to length. Since I only had red I marked the other wire with a black marker. I quick spliced the wires and began to run them. I fed them through to the outside edge of the tailgate panel, when I reached the top corner I had to feed the wires across to the inside corner. Continue feeding the wires until you reach the accordion rubber tube. On the top pull down the rubber until you expose the white oval clip. On the apex and side of the white oval clip are 4 push tabs. Take your common screwdriver and push each tab in and the white clip will fall. Grab your wire hanger and blue tape the end of one wire and feed it towards the opening and pull the wire through (do the same for the remaining wire). On the bottom end of the accordion tube is a much bigger rubber oval, simply pull on this unit until it breaks loose. Take your common screwdriver and tape the wires on to the shaft. Level out the accordion tube. Feed the screwdriver through the white oval clip, then through the accordion (do not stab through the accordion). Remove the blue tape and screw driver. Wrap the rubber part over the white oval clip then re-install. Run some Elmer's Rubber Cement glue on the bottom black oval rubber, then re-install. Lift the tailgate liner and you will notice a gap between that and the headliner, take your hanger and pull the wires towards you. Continue to run the wires towards the drivers side all the way to the bottom of the tailgate. I think this is important because it stays on the the outside of a OEM wire harness and will not interfere with the airbag. Stick your hand though the open panel and reach for the wires and pull them towards where the jack rests. Re-installing the reverse light housing was simple. Put the tabs back in place and with the palm of your had gently punch the lifted part in to place.






Chevy places their URPA (ultrasonic reverse parking assistance) distance indicator on the headliner with the third bench overhead lighting. The kit's distance indicator would have to be mounted upside down if I replicated Chevy's placement. Instead I mounted the distance indicator on top of the rear view mirror. I would of preferred to mount the distance indicator somewhere in the rear but there wasn't too many options. I blue taped the distance indicator on top of the rear view mirror and began test routing the wire to make sure I had enough to reach the brain in the back. There was plenty of wire so I took an alcohol swab and wiped the top of the rear view mirror, let it dry for a bit, then place the distance indicator. Pinch the black plastic cover where it meets the headliner then slide it down to begin running your wire. There's a decent size gap between the windshield and headliner, no effort is needed to run to the first pillar. Once you reach your first pillar, there is some play to pull it towards you and run the wire through. I used the blue composite interior panel tool I've had for awhile to feed the wire. By this point you should be standing outside the driver's side door looking in. Pull the door liner down and pull the wire towards you, this will pull the wire at an angle avoiding the airbag on that first pillar. Continue removing the door liner and working the wire to the second pillar. Again there is a little play to pull and feed the wire through. Pull this taught to avoid the airbag and it will rest on top of an OEM wire harness. Just like the front pull the passenger door liner down and run the wire towards the third pillar. Run the wire through the third pillar and pull taught as this will cause the wire to sit on top of an OEM wire harness avoiding the airbag. Continue running the wire in between the window and headliner, I had a problem with the wire staying up there, so I rolled up some electrical tape (about a quarter inch thick) and worked it in there. Work the 4th pillar the same way until the wire comes out of the tailgate. Continue to feed the wire down to the bottom of the tailgate by lifting the tailgate liner exposing a gap between the liner and inside panel. Reach in through the open panel and pull the wires towards where the jack rests. Now for the fun part start connecting everything. Plug in the sensor wires to the corresponding plugs, connect the distance indicator, quick splice the power and ground together, plug in the power, and clean up your wiring.




I've never been one to do any auto electrical work, suffice it to say I was a bit weary of sitting in the driver's seat and starting the ignition. I swear an airbag was gonna go off in my face. So I manned up and started her, bam airbags going off everywhere, one in the face on the side, my wiring wrapped around my ear......just kidding....it all worked perfectly.
$275.00 - $450.00 from local audio shops. $2100.00 from dealer. Let's say I paid my self $25.00 an hour, I made off like a bandit. The job took less than 4hrs.

 

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Incredible post Traversebarker :eek:! Thank you for taking the time to provide such a detailed description.
 

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good write up on the install. :cheers:
 

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very nice install... and pretty nice 1st post
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all, hopefully this info will be helpful. Quick follow-up, the parking assistance is working great. On the distance indicator each sensor has its own series of warning lights. It picks up an object at about 6' (indicator shows distance) away and at 4' is where the first green light appears and you get a beep. 3' is yellow and you get a beep beep, and 2' is where it's red with a beep beep beep at about a foot it is red with a constant beep. By the time it counts down to 0 you are 6" away from the object. This thing even beeps with objects in the peripheral of the vehilcle.
 

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One question...my Traverse does not have the rear distance indicator lights. Anyone that has the factory park assist have the indicator lights? I know my parents 2010 Equinox has it, and its a really nice feature.
 

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the lights were deleted for 2010....

the 2009's had them.
 

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:thumb: Very nice job & very informative.

8) Steve
 

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Where were they located on the '09's? Anyone have a picture? I wonder if this is something you can still add or not. Not a big deal, the audiable sound is good, but I just like lights! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thx VB. Quantum in the post I stated that the distance indicator is located above with the third bench overhead lighting. I was mistaken, it's above the 2nd bench. When we test drove we tested an 09 model used with the parking sensors and the LS we picked up, I just figured they would come that way on the 2010's, apparently they do not. Here's a link that shows them in the 09 manual:
http://www.chevrolet.com/assets/pdf/owners/manuals/2009/2009_chevrolet_traverse_owners.pdf
It's on page 2-36 (pg 100 in adobe). If that overhead lighting is easily removable above the 2nd bench check for a harness plug (should there be one, hopefully it will only be a matter of plug and play).
 

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Nice post! You should get some kind of "best new member" award. I think my first post was something like "hey guys Im new nice to meet you"! :blob:

My 09 has the lights, I don't pay attention to them. I find the factory system beeps for things on the side of you as well. When I back out of the garage it will beep when nothing is behind me, my other car is to the side, and of course the garage wall on the other side. I wish it only beeped when something was in my way behind me..... But I guess it beeps to tell you to pay attention as things are around your car.
 
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Tiestosteele said:
Nice post! You should get some kind of "best new member" award. I think my first post was something like "hey guys Im new nice to meet you"! :blob:

My 09 has the lights, I don't pay attention to them. I find the factory system beeps for things on the side of you as well. When I back out of the garage it will beep when nothing is behind me, my other car is to the side, and of course the garage wall on the other side. I wish it only beeped when something was in my way behind me..... But I guess it beeps to tell you to pay attention as things are around your car.
My Acadia does the same when I back out of the garage; the sounds definitely get your attention
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks AA/78U and Tiesto. Just trying to be helpful. Actually Tiesto's HID install inspired this post. I wish the 2010s came with projectors.
 

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in this picture- found online
in the 3rd row- there is a kid on the left hand side- above his head- theres a little thing on the headliner- thats the unit with the lights.

 

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backed it into a parking space today I have the backup camera in the NAV system and when I got close a red tirangle pop up.
 

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Quantum said:
Where were they located on the '09's? Anyone have a picture? I wonder if this is something you can still add or not. Not a big deal, the audiable sound is good, but I just like lights! :D
If you consider where the retractable shoulder belt for the 3rd row is in the ceiling on the driver side, about the same place but on the passenger side.
 

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Hello Traversbarker- newbe myself also green with computers.
Thanks for the comeback. I shave the backup camera and think (hoper) it leaves something to be desired.
Thanks again
alvinsm
 

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I would like to add too this. I have to since installed backup Camera and sensors.

http://www.traverseforum.com/index.php?topic=1236.0

NOTE: Although traversebarker has a good write up he has compromised the deployment paths the air bags use.

As in the wires may hit/tangle when the air bags deploy. I explored this as an option and noted the air bags will have issues when they deploy. Also the additon of the wire aka RF and EF fields may even trigger an air bag to deploy.

I wouldn't recommend shoving wires along the door track in this manner.

It is possible to remove the over head center console and drop the dome lights and then use a wire fish to bring a wire/wires all they way from the back to the mirror location with out interfering with anything to important.

I used a good quality wirefish and just pushed it to the first dome light then the second then to the console location.

Hope this helps.
 

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interesting point about the wires and air bag deployment,
 
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