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Discussion Starter #1
I searched the forum and can’t figure out the proper way to clean the throttle body. Some said to manhandle the butterfly plate without power in the system. Others said have someone in the vehicle to push down the gas paddle with the ignition on but engine not running.

I removed the air intake duct and followed the PCV hose to locate the orifice on my 2015 with less than 80,000 KM. I was not able to remove the orifice to examine, but no oil on the tip of the orifice surface. I found no oil residue inside the air intake duct but some black soot in the throttle body. I wiped it clean with napkins because I wasn’t planning to do any major cleaning today just curious the state of the orifice and air intake duct in my vehicle after reading all those horror stories in the forum. I tried to push the butterfly plate to check the inside of the TB but met with resistance. I figure I better return to this forum to get a clear answer before I mess with it. My previous vehicles had cable linked throttle body so they were no brainers. I don’t really want to get myself into troubles without the proper know-how.

PS. I drive like an old man, never jack rabbit start and slam on my brakes. Would this explain why I don’t have much oily residue in the air intake duct and orifice? I got 22 mpg combined on average.
 

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Hold the Phone. You are in Canada and you are giving us a Miles Per Gallon update? HMMMM.
Every vehicle is different by the way it is driven and maintained. What kind of oil you use and how often you change it is one difference where your vehicle is not experiencing the clogged PCV issues some of us had. Are you using the Throttle Body Spray cleaner? I wouldn't spray that into the engine with it running or not running, we usually spray it in and let it run out onto a rag or remove the assembly and clean both sides that way. A rag with cleaner to clean the back side is sufficient. It is important to get the friction points so it doesn't hang up, it is spring loaded so you will meet resistance. Just make sure that your ignition is off when you do clean it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hold the Phone. You are in Canada and you are giving us a Miles Per Gallon update? HMMMM.
Every vehicle is different by the way it is driven and maintained. What king of oil you use and how often you change it is one difference where your vehicle is not experiencing the clogged PCV issues some of us had. Are you using the Throttle Body Spray cleaner? I wouldn't spray that into the engine with it running or not running, we usually spray it in and let it run out onto a rag or remove the assembly and clean both sides that way. A rag with cleaner to clean the back side is sufficient. It is important to get the friction points so it doesn't hang up, it is spring loaded so you will meet resistance. Just make sure that your ignition is off when you do clean it.
Some readers in US were confused when I gave the L/100KM so I converted it to make it easier. 😊 For the fun of it, my traverse does 100KM with 11 L of fuel combined. 🤣

The oil in the engine is Mobil 1 5w30 and is 2,500 miles old. Before this the dealer did my oil change with GM stuff. I found the engine burns a lot more oil when using the dealer oil. I did not have to top up the engine once with Mobil 1. I change the oil when the oil life monitor drops to 10% or so. I know it is a big no, no...

I am thinking of getting a can of CRC throttle body kleen air intake cleaner once I've sorted out how to move the butterfly plate to access the back side of the TB. I don't want to take out the TB assembly to perform the cleaning because I don't have a torque wrench to tighten the TB to spec when done.I am just hoping to find a correct method to move the butterfly plate without messing up the stepping motor.
 

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As long as the key is out of the ignition you wont mess up the throttle position memory. If you have a bad position sensor that would be something completely different. Just cleaning doesn't upset the works though.
 

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I've always been told not to move the throttle blade on electronic throttle bodies... I would exercise caution.
 

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As long as there is no power, the position sensor wont give a feedback and mess up the synchronization. If somehow it does get out of Sync. either by manipulating it, or replacing it with a new one, you would need to to a relearn of the throttle body. If it did get messed up, you would experience abnormal idles but eventually it would most likely relearn on its own.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The electronic throttle body (the black box) that has the gears, sensors, springs etc attached to the side of the TB assembly is controlled by the PCM. If I force the butterfly plate open would it be possible that I will break the gears inside? When I try to push the plate the resistance was pretty high.
 

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Well I don't know how much force that you are using, I never had any problems manipulating the butterfly, it surly has resistance to it but your opinion of force and mine may be different. I doubt that you can break anything inside by working it by hand, if it is not working properly then you would need a new assembly anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I guess if I had someone in the car holding down the gas pedal with the ignition on to open up the butterfly valve may do some damage to the throttle body servo because I could inadvertently move the butterfly valve against the TB servo while doing the cleaning. Leaving the key out may be more logical if I don't damage the gears when trying to force the plate open. I wonder how much force I need to push open the butterfly valve.
 

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I do the cleaning with no power (keys out of ignition). and Manually move the butterly open/close while I spray the sides of the butterfly where it enters the sides of throttle body. I want free movement here.
Ive never removed any of my TB to thoroughly clean..only the simple cleaning near the moving parts.

Yes, the butterfly has a bit of resistance to it. You push it open, if you let go-- it springs back to the closed position.
You can imagine how many times Ive done it- and all the vehicles are still on the factory Throttle body.
I do the cleanings when I do oil changes.

2013 Equinox @ 96,xxx - repeat cleaning every 6,000
2010 Traverse @ 158,xxx - I repeat this procedure every 5,000 miles.
2003 Trailblazer @ 188,xxx- I repeat every 11,000
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will give that a try. If I break it just another $150 that I don't have for a new throttle body :)
I did look at the opening of the TB and it was reasonably clean, just wondering what the inside looks like. The 2015 Equinox may be worse because it has more mileage on it and do experience some hesitation.
Thanks all...
 

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I do the cleaning with no power (keys out of ignition). and Manually move the butterly open/close while I spray the sides of the butterfly where it enters the sides of throttle body. I want free movement here.
Ive never removed any of my TB to thoroughly clean..only the simple cleaning near the moving parts.

Yes, the butterfly has a bit of resistance to it. You push it open, if you let go-- it springs back to the closed position.
You can imagine how many times Ive done it- and all the vehicles are still on the factory Throttle body.
I do the cleanings when I do oil changes.

2013 Equinox @ 96,xxx - repeat cleaning every 6,000
2010 Traverse @ 158,xxx - I repeat this procedure every 5,000 miles.
2003 Trailblazer @ 188,xxx- I repeat every 11,000
X2.
 

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I searched the forum and can’t figure out the proper way to clean the throttle body. Some said to manhandle the butterfly plate without power in the system. Others said have someone in the vehicle to push down the gas paddle with the ignition on but engine not running.

I removed the air intake duct and followed the PCV hose to locate the orifice on my 2015 with less than 80,000 KM. I was not able to remove the orifice to examine, but no oil on the tip of the orifice surface. I found no oil residue inside the air intake duct but some black soot in the throttle body. I wiped it clean with napkins because I wasn’t planning to do any major cleaning today just curious the state of the orifice and air intake duct in my vehicle after reading all those horror stories in the forum. I tried to push the butterfly plate to check the inside of the TB but met with resistance. I figure I better return to this forum to get a clear answer before I mess with it. My previous vehicles had cable linked throttle body so they were no brainers. I don’t really want to get myself into troubles without the proper know-how.

PS. I drive like an old man, never jack rabbit start and slam on my brakes. Would this explain why I don’t have much oily residue in the air intake duct and orifice? I got 22 mpg combined on average.
Best I ever got was 19.87 mpg. on the 15 with 62+K miles. 90% highway.

Been really ticked since I bought the beast.
 

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How fast do you go? I can get 22-24 MPG on the highway at 65MPH, cruise control and moderate hills. Best I ever saw was 26 for a while, I guess it was downhill. I average 22 on a trip and with daily commuting it is 18-19 with some highway. I just cannot find the best speed for optimum highway MPG, higher speed = less downshifting on hills, 68 seems to be my sweet spot.
srwa, do you use Techtron Concentrate?
 

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2 weeks ago- I drove from Los Angeles to San Diego. Right next to the border.
I stuck to the 2 right lanes. Let traffic in those lanes set my speed. I was ahead of schedule.
139 mile drive 1 way....which consisted of everything from 50-70 MPH.
31.9 MPG.
I'm now at 157,xxx

The return trip was different. I stayed at 75-85. I think it went down to 26.x mpg
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How fast do you go? I can get 22-24 MPG on the highway at 65MPH, cruise control and moderate hills. Best I ever saw was 26 for a while, I guess it was downhill. I average 22 on a trip and with daily commuting it is 18-19 with some highway. I just cannot find the best speed for optimum highway MPG, higher speed = less downshifting on hills, 68 seems to be my sweet spot.
srwa, do you use Techtron Concentrate?
2 weeks ago- I drove from Los Angeles to San Diego. Right next to the border.
I stuck to the 2 right lanes. Let traffic in those lanes set my speed. I was ahead of schedule.
139 mile drive 1 way....which consisted of everything from 50-70 MPH.
31.9 MPG.
I'm now at 157,xxx

The return trip was different. I stayed at 75-85. I think it went down to 26.x mpg
The speed and outside temp definitely a factor affecting the MPG. We have cooler temperature up north and not surprising we get slightly poor mileage.
 

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Since 2000, I've owned 15 cars from 4 different Brands.... driven in excess of a bazillion miles. Not once, have I ever cleaned, or felt the need, to clean the throttle body.

If the throttle was sticking, I guess I'd squirt the thing out. Beyond that , I dont see any benefit.

For those worried about breaking it, go out to your car and with your keys in your pocket, mash down on the throttle about 50 times. Anything happen? Anything break? E-Throttle cars are a bit different, but the result is the same.

Every once in a while I'll clean out the MAF sensor..... but thats about it.
 

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Since 2000, I've owned 15 cars from 4 different Brands.... driven in excess of a bazillion miles. Not once, have I ever cleaned, or felt the need, to clean the throttle body.

If the throttle was sticking, I guess I'd squirt the thing out. Beyond that , I dont see any benefit.

For those worried about breaking it, go out to your car and with your keys in your pocket, mash down on the throttle about 50 times. Anything happen? Anything break? E-Throttle cars are a bit different, but the result is the same.

Every once in a while I'll clean out the MAF sensor..... but thats about it.
You know, I'd have said the same thing until the CEL came up on my 2011 Traverse in the winter time. Cleaned the TB as suggested here and all was good.

Never say never, I guess.
 
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