This is on a 2010. I looked high a low for this and could not see this.Is it below the spark plug wire connectors on the back side. If you have a picture it would really help.Like you I clean out my oil trap all the time.But it would be good to check it out.Thanks

 

let me find a pic.....

 

remove your plastic engine cover.
on the top of the engine- find the tube highlighted in yellow.
Follow the tube towards the firewall to where it ends.

The end of the tube- is the same type of connector as the one on the air tube the gets full of oil- you know- pull the small plastic tab and lift up.
Its on the driver side of the valve cover closest to firewall.

 

Wow! Unbelievable. I read the write up from SC2150. It almost doesn't seem worth it to clean the intake valves. Did you see the scoring on the piston from cleaning the valves. I always use BP gas in all of my cars, but I guess that doesn't really help our DI engines. Would using fully synthetic oil help?

 

Thanks for the picture. You know I saw that hose but didn't think it was that kind of a hook up. And I did look back there. Maybe I should open my eyes next time.

 

I did this Modification today on my Traverse with help from rbarrios on this site.After working on it to get it loose it came out pretty easy.
Neither of the holes top or bottom were close to being plugged.I drilled out the three holes on the new one and installed
It.
The hardest part being a old guy in his early 70s was to get up and reach it.
I apologize for not being able to show pictures but I haven't got the hang of that yet.But it did look good with having 117,000 miles on it. I do clean out where the oil collects before the carburetor often.Not sure how long I'm going to keep this vehicle but I like to have them running right.
Just some information for others.

 

a little peace of mind knowing it was not completely plugged.

what is your oil brand?

 

I tried to pull the PCV out this past weekend. I tried to remove the other end of it, where it is easy to reach but I couldn't get that one out. I figured that the closer connection would be the same as the one near the firewall. I wanted to practice since the one near the firewall is so hard to reach. I ended up just leaving it alone because I didn't want to break it.

 

the end right on top of the engine is a pop off. held in place by an o ring.

by the firewall-
if you have the replacement-- then you can use pliers and move the nipple back and forth. clockwise and counterclockwise-- while applying a little upward pressure.
You will soon see it moving up and finally out.

 

I never had one particular oil that I used the dealer changed the oil until my warranty ran out.Then I went to a local business.They have changed it for the last 80,000 miles.Have no idea what oil but it never got over 4,000 miles between changes.I just have no place to do it were I live.
For getting it out I used a small vice griped pliers and it did come out pretty easy after I twisted back and forth.It did go back in pretty easy with down pressure while moving it back and forth.Hope that helps someone.
I was glad that it wasn't plugged on either end .Not even close.Drilling the holes in the new was very easy.

 

Thanks rbarrios and Dale.

 

the end right on top of the engine is a pop off. held in place by an o ring.

by the firewall-
if you have the replacement-- then you can use pliers and move the nipple back and forth. clockwise and counterclockwise-- while applying a little upward pressure.
You will soon see it moving up and finally out.

My 2012 is not. I have to remove the tube from the PCV valve first and then rotate the tube counterclockwise to remove the fitting on the top of the engine. It has tabs that need to clear each other to be removed.

I should be doing the PCV mod sometime this weekend

 

I did mine today. 89K. Oil in the intake tube, original not totally clogged.

To install the new one I needed a small piece of wood and a (tap tap tap) from a hammer to get it in.

This was really easy to do while the intake was off changing the plugs.

 

Checked the tube-- 4,342 miles since the mod-- NO oil pooled!

 

Our 2010 with 130,000 miles, which has always had Mobil 1 synthetic, seemed to have issues with this from the day we got it. I regularly dumped it out at oil changes and was generally quite disgusted by the mix of oil and water, especially in our winters. I assumed it was just blow-by, until I researched more recently and found out that the PCV connection to the intake tube is supposed to be the fresh air connection and not the dump point for vapors. I checked my orifice, and it was very plugged, so I drilled it out and added a catch can between the orifice and the manifold dump point. I haven't seen any oil in the intake tract since, but I'll be checking again this weekend when I change the oil and coolant.

 

Rbarrios, Could you host the pictures somewhere else? Since Photobucket is blocking them all now, makes following along a little difficult. Or could you send to me in an email?

 

Just drilled out the PCV as per the thread. My 2009 has 81k miles and the PCV was clean without buildup. Drilled it anyway and cleaned small amount of oil in the black intake bellow.

 

Mike G-- did you get this done?


Just changed my oil again- 2nd time since I did the mod. (about 10,000 miles since mod).
Glad to report ZERO oil in my tube.

 

there are a few pics-- of the holes in this thread by Alacran

http://www.traverseforum.com/33-eng...m/33-engine-drivetrain/2730-pcv-routing-lambdas-free-oil-consumption-mod-2.html

 

just changed oil again.
15,000 miles later- ZERO oil found in the tube.

 

Did this mod to our 2012 LT yesterday. The oil contamination in the intake tube was increasing, and when I pulled the PCV valve it was almost totally clogged. I drilled it out and expect the problem to diminish significantly. The car has always been serviced with synthetic oil, and I was hoping that there would be less carbon fouling -- but this time around it was severe. Probably due to our family's short trip winter driving schedule where the oil never really heats up and goes through a thorough heat cycle.

 

Just did the PCV mod to my 2012 Traverse with 61,852 miles. It barely had any build up or oil in the intake tube but I have been getting fault code P2138 pop up and throw my vehicle into limp mode every couple months. Herd that the PCV mod could possibly fix that problem. And if not its a good peice of mind anyway for the bennefits down the line. I'll keep you posted if it fixes the P2138 fault code.

 

Changed the oil a few days ago, and the PCV fixed worked flawlessly. There was hardly any oil in the intake tube -- just a drop that wiped out with a rag and not the pool that was in there before. The throttle plate on the other hand was clean as a whistle -- whereas in previous oil changes it was always gunked up.

The PCV fix is what made all the difference in the world.

 

A bit longer of a post to go into more detail.

Many thanks again to rbarrios whom I've learned so much from. As requested:
2016 Traverse 3.6l, 2wd
55,000 miles
Castrol 5W-30 Dino oil (non-synth)
PCV never been serviced- It was almost fully clogged closed


I was going thru a little bit more oil between changes than I thought normal. I wasn't burning it and read the above posts and decided to have a look. So I thought I got the right part at P-Boyz and proceeded to drill out the holes as instructed. Pulled off the cross engine valve covers hose. The front connection is pretty easy. The firewall connection is a tiny 'catch clamp' that you need to pull back with your thumb by feel and then lift up. Here's a picture of the clamp release.

I attempted to remove the PCV with plyers but no way it was moving nor twisting. I then used a “trim fastner removal tool” that worked perfectly at a levered angle but still needed a lot of force. Here's the $5 tool.

The OE PCV in 2016 is a “Press Fit”, metal to metal and exact sized. When I got it out it was almost fully clogged. The P-boyz part that I drilled out was too big to fit in that press-fit metal hole. Here's the pict of the double hole and the OE single hole dirty one. {ignore the dirty opening cause I blew in it and opened it. It was CLOGGED!}

I went down to the dealership for an OE replacement PCV. Guess What? Its listed on the screen as a “Non-Serviceable” part. No part number, No price, Can't even buy the PCV alone. Nope, you have to purchase the ENTIRE valve cover with the PCV installed at ~$200 !!!


I'm not wrecking my engine like said in the above posts, so carb sprayed it and clean as new. Used a deep well socket over the top of the cleaned part and just kept tapping on top for 10 mins with a rachet head until it seated solid again metal to metal.


I removed the bellows connection hose between the air intake body and the air cleaner to look for standing oil. Inside the air intake body area there was none

I then looked inside the bellows tube and there was a wet slick of oil in there which I cleaned out in the catch can and inside the tube which you can see. I think it's ALOT of oil to be standing in there and with a clogged 'non-serviceable' PCV, it's going to get a lot worse.

On my 2016 there is a small “catch can” molded into the bellows connection that you can see in this picture.

Just my maintenance story and I enjoy all the tips and tricks posted here cause I learn a lot. After I posted the 108mph speed limiter that I got flamed on I could use a few 'Likes'. Just hover your cursor on the bottom right grey 'Quick Reply' button and directly above it will pop up a little blue “LIKE” button. Click on that if you thought what I posted here was good.

 

It looks like your "PVC Valve" (if you want to call it that) just has a hole in the center. Is it possible to to just jamb a piece of wire or something through it to clean it out, rather than take it or the valve cover off? I'm asking because I need to do this to my 2016 Traverse.

 

Hey all. 2012 Traverse AWD here, ~92,000 miles. I've only owned it for 4 months, but I'm doing synthetic oil at 5,000 mile intervals.

Prior to doing the PCV mod today, I had taken apart the intake tube to clean the throttle body (old Trailblazer owner here lol) and there was a LOT of the typical milkshake mixture in there. That was about 1,000 miles and a little over a month ago. Prior to my ownership I know almost nothing about the maintenance history, but if I had to guess, I would say I was the first one to clean that gunk out.

Upon pulling it apart to do the PCV mod, I thought there was no oil in the tube at all, which surprised me, since my PCV was unfortunately completely clogged. However, when cleaning the MAF sensor, the tube laid there upside down so to speak. When I looked again, there was oil dripping from the little "catch can". Just cleaned it out, installed the new PCV, and will post results upon my next oil change in approximately 4,000 miles.

Note: I had a pretty decent nest under the engine cover when I went to do the plugs (starting early on my 100,000 mile service) and I noticed that they've gotten to some wires. I have no issues with my Traverse that I know about (aside from some "hesitation" while accelerating very slowly, for example, in stop and go traffic, that I was hoping the throttle body cleaning would fix. Now I'm hoping the MAF cleaning will solve that), but to be ahead of the curve does anyone know what that little green wire is? It's plugged into the harness to the right of the PCV valve. See the pic in attaching.

Thanks for the great forum all!

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