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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 Traverse LTZ, 93000 miles - Got P0305 code and took to dealer who said burnt #5 cylinder. Wants $7800 for new engine or $5300 to replace head. Does this sound reasonable? Everything I have found says that it should be around $3500 to replace the head. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How did he determine it is a burnt cylinder? Get a second and possibly third opinion.
I should have said burnt valve, not cylinder. They did a bleed down compression check and injector flow rate test. The bleed down compression test was half the value of the other cylinders. The injector flow rate test was okay. Also I put scope down the air intake and the #5 valve was very different from all the others.

Still wondering if $5300 to replace the head is legitimate price? Anybody know??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Do you have a picture of the valve?
No, i just used my scope and unfortunately it doesn't record. When I looked at #5, compared to the others it was smoother/cleaner with no sign of build up on it, very smooth. The others showed signs of some "build up" - I don't know how to describe it better. The dealer said the head replacement includes new timing chains and related parts. The estimate is for 23 hours of labor @ approx $100/hr
 

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are you driving it? What kind of gas do you use discount or Top Tier? If you are driving it with this issue anyway, then I would recommend trying a couple of tankfuls of Techtron concentrate before you sink the $$$ into it. And if you do get a flashing CEL, follow the Owners Manual Recommendations on this condition.


Also, what kind of scanner do you have? Something that can read real time vitals such as Cat temps can help to see if you are burning efficiently. I use Bluedriver, there are others as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
are you driving it? What kind of gas do you use discount or Top Tier? If you are driving it with this issue anyway, then I would recommend trying a couple of tankfuls of Techtron concentrate before you sink the $$$ into it. And if you do get a flashing CEL, follow the Owners Manual Recommendations on this condition.


Also, what kind of scanner do you have? Something that can read real time vitals such as Cat temps can help to see if you are burning efficiently. I use Bluedriver, there are others as well.
The car is currently at at the dealer. What I'm really trying to determine how much $$$ is "normal" for the head replacement. There are no other dealers within a 60 mile radius of where I'm at to take it to for a second opinion.

To answer your questions.....

I buy fuel from brand name stations that have higher volume turnover. My scanner is a standard handheld - nothing fancy.

Also I replaced the plugs, coils, mass air flow sensor, cleaned throttle body assembly, replaced intake manifold gaskets upper and lower and O2 sensors before taking to dealer.

The CEL is flashing and the following is what the manual said. Turning off and restarting engine still produced a flashing CEL.

Light Flashing: A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and could damage the emission control system on the vehicle. Diagnosis and service might be required.
To prevent more serious damage to the vehicle:
The following may correct an emission control system malfunction:
If one or more of these conditions occurs, change the fuel brand used. It may require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
Reduce vehicle speed.
Avoid hard accelerations.
Avoid steep uphill grades.
If towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
If the light continues to flash, find a safe place to stop and park the
vehicle. Turn the vehicle off, wait at least 10 seconds, and restart the engine. If the light is still flashing,
follow the previous steps and see your dealer for service as soon as possible.
 

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You might try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Kind of like re-booting your computer when nothing else seems to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You might try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Kind of like re-booting your computer when nothing else seems to work.
Have done that already too with no luck.

Unfortunately at this point I'm out of options and I'm just going to have to trust that the dealer service has diagnosed the problem correctly and isn't overcharging me since there's no other repair service available.

Thank you all for your ideas and help.
 

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The car is currently at at the dealer. What I'm really trying to determine how much $$$ is "normal" for the head replacement. There are no other dealers within a 60 mile radius of where I'm at to take it to for a second opinion.

To answer your questions.....

I buy fuel from brand name stations that have higher volume turnover. My scanner is a standard handheld - nothing fancy.

Also I replaced the plugs, coils, mass air flow sensor, cleaned throttle body assembly, replaced intake manifold gaskets upper and lower and O2 sensors before taking to dealer.

The CEL is flashing and the following is what the manual said. Turning off and restarting engine still produced a flashing CEL.

Light Flashing: A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and could damage the emission control system on the vehicle. Diagnosis and service might be required.
To prevent more serious damage to the vehicle:
The following may correct an emission control system malfunction:
If one or more of these conditions occurs, change the fuel brand used. It may require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
Reduce vehicle speed.
Avoid hard accelerations.
Avoid steep uphill grades.
If towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
If the light continues to flash, find a safe place to stop and park the
vehicle. Turn the vehicle off, wait at least 10 seconds, and restart the engine. If the light is still flashing,
follow the previous steps and see your dealer for service as soon as possible.

So I've had this problem with my 2010 dodge 1500 for over the past year... I've replaced spark plugs, distributor, cables, seals, lifters... and so on.....even had my electrical and fuel systems looked at. I've spend over $5000.00 on fixes that haven't solved anything as the codes show up within a week or so after the work has been done. Used multiple dealerships as I've gotten frustrated as each tries different thing that just cost more cash.

I was speaking to a service tech at a new dealership who mentioned Chrysler has know about this problem for over 10years and finally released a resolution... claimed it is a software problem that detects a small gap in the firing timing and labels its a fault when no issue is there.... he claimed once a compression test has been done along with spark plug and distributor has been checked that they have been instructed to flash the ECM with this new update.

This applies for codes from p0300 to p0308.

So I just had my ECU updated today and noticed no fault codes, I even own a code reader now and checked myself... no codes, no faults detected during tests, the vehicle idled better and felt like it had more power while driving.

Another issue I've been dealing with has been my dodge clunking from the rear end when leaving a stand still (light) or when shifting into drive and first moving.... rear control arms replaced and solved nothing, axle checked, fluids changed... no resolution.... speaking to the same tech as he mentioned a shift timing update avail for the PCM... DONE today as well, no clunk noticed when shifting or leaving park or leaving a light... keeping my fingers crossed.... lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I've had this problem with my 2010 dodge 1500 for over the past year... I've replaced spark plugs, distributor, cables, seals, lifters... and so on.....even had my electrical and fuel systems looked at. I've spend over $5000.00 on fixes that haven't solved anything as the codes show up within a week or so after the work has been done. Used multiple dealerships as I've gotten frustrated as each tries different thing that just cost more cash.

I was speaking to a service tech at a new dealership who mentioned Chrysler has know about this problem for over 10years and finally released a resolution... claimed it is a software problem that detects a small gap in the firing timing and labels its a fault when no issue is there.... he claimed once a compression test has been done along with spark plug and distributor has been checked that they have been instructed to flash the ECM with this new update.

This applies for codes from p0300 to p0308.

So I just had my ECU updated today and noticed no fault codes, I even own a code reader now and checked myself... no codes, no faults detected during tests, the vehicle idled better and felt like it had more power while driving.

Another issue I've been dealing with has been my dodge clunking from the rear end when leaving a stand still (light) or when shifting into drive and first moving.... rear control arms replaced and solved nothing, axle checked, fluids changed... no resolution.... speaking to the same tech as he mentioned a shift timing update avail for the PCM... DONE today as well, no clunk noticed when shifting or leaving park or leaving a light... keeping my fingers crossed.... lol
Thanks for the reply.

UPDATE....When the dealership went to do the head replacement they found a broken valve spring, broken rocker guide and a valve guide with a groove in it - among other things. I saw the parts as they were taken out and verified the failure. It was a catastropic failure and it ended up being cheaper to replace with a new engine. A week later and I finally have the Traverse back and its running fine with a new 3 year, 100K mile engine warranty.

Thanks again everybody for your help.
 
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