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My first post... and first oil change so I figured I'd make it useful with pics. There are in no specific order.

Changed @ 599 miles because of all the crap I read about how the oil is black. Oil was no black in my case... looked like it could have used another 2K miles put on it but it does not matter... good learning experience and I put a good filter w/ full synthetic in.

Most important in this whole process to take away is that you have to be careful when you maneuver the filter up when you unscrew it. Half of it was full with oil and lucky for me I made sure that my arm & hand was in a position to tilt it up-right after it was unscrewed and I could pull it straight up. Thankfully I didn't spill anything, but I can see how things could have gone really wrong. The position of the filter is so retarded that you can easily drop it and splash everything everywhere.

Aside from that, the rest of the change was easy and not a big deal. In fact, in some ways it's easier to change then my other car... Xterra. The nice thing about this filter layout is that below the filter is a little shoot that the oil travels on. Most other cars, the oil travels right along the filter and then you get all your filter is covered in oil. This however (if you don't drop it) will allow you to take the filter out dry.

I don't know how long I'll have these pics up.








Took about 45 min. Will probably take about 25 or 30 next time now that I know what I'm doing and filter is on hand-tight only.

Cheers.

Chris
 

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There is no way I would ever change oil and filter on a new engine with such low mileage. I cannot believe the rings would ever have the opportunity to seat against the cylinder walls properly.

There is a method to the thinking of the engineers at GM, no matter how "black" the oil may appear.
 

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bobg1951chevy said:
There is no way I would ever change oil and filter on a new engine with such low mileage. I cannot believe the rings would ever have the opportunity to seat against the cylinder walls properly.
This seating you describe will happen or not or has regardless of when one changes the oil. There is lots of evidence as can only be seen in UOAs i.e very high readings of many metals and silicon, indicative of an engine breaking in, that one would not want in one's oil. I have done similarly Chris i.e an oil change at 500 miles.

I also did one 1000 miles later and my next will be coming up soon...the standard 3000 miles interval. If the analysis is good for this 3k mile interval I will begin to make use of the OLM. (For example with this current 3k miles interval the OLM will likely read around 70%).
 

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smokiez said:
My first post... and first oil change so I figured I'd make it useful with pics. There are in no specific order.
Good pictures Chris. Thank you.
 

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That was nice of you to take the time for the pics. I changed mine and the only hard part was trying to find the filter. It looked harder then it was. But next time I'll wait till the engine cools down.
 

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would using car ramps make it easier? I cant tell from pics if its on ramps
 

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Do you think the dealer has a hard time changing the oil, or do they know a few tricks to make it easier. As I don't change my own oil anymore, ( really really bad back) I was curious. It kind of scares me that it is so difficult. I don't think this is true of most dealers, but many independent shops might "Skip" changing the filter all together!
 

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I could not tell what my dealer mec used since the bay was too far away, but I supplied the filter and the oil. The filter was definitely changed. It was totally and completely clean. Very impressive. No doubts that my dealer mec had the process down flawless (we forgave him for the two little drops of new oil on top when adding). Now, the question is whether ALL dealer mecs are able to change the oil this flawlessly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
rbarrios said:
would using car ramps make it easier? I cant tell from pics if its on ramps
I drove the passanger side up on a ramp so the car is tilted about 20 degrees.

I forgot to include this image in original post... this is the shoot I was talking about that the oil fallows. Probably the most important pic as it takes the guess work out of where the oil goes/how it travels down.

 

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btw, so there is no confusion (because I can see how there could be)... the image that shows the oil dripping past/on a bolt... that's just showing the drip path the oil takes from the oil filter shoot down... thats *not the oil pan drain bolt/cap. I can see how it could look like it is/like the bolt has oil coming out or something, heh.

3rd image shows the actual oil drain bolt... just thought I would clarify. I didnt show that process because it's self explanitory once you locate the bolt.

Chris
 

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good thing you pointed that out.... I did think that was the oil drain bolt
 

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Thanks for the pics.

I just changed mine for the first time at 2100 miles.

I just used a metal oil filter socket, on a 3/8" drive ratchet with a jack handle for a little extra leverage. It came right off.
 
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