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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any experience with the OBD cables for dash cams? We have purchased a dash cam and since the 12v outlet on our 2013 Traverse is always energized, the dash cam will not power on/off with the engine. I have seen some cables advertised that plug into the OBD port and have an ACC switch and a micro USB outlet for the dash cam. This would allow the dash cam to power on/off with the engine. Some of the comments associated with those mention possible errors to the engine. I just want the camera to cycle otherwise it is always on and I have to remember to plug it in and out.
 

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I have yet to power mine with a switched Power Source. Mine uses a USB, I have the Adapter and the ports. I plan on using the overhead Console for power, most likely the Lighting Circuit or possibly the Onstar Power.
I would stay away from the OBD port.
 

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I have yet to power mine with a switched Power Source. Mine uses a USB, I have the Adapter and the ports. I plan on using the overhead Console for power, most likely the Lighting Circuit or possibly the Onstar Power.
I would stay away from the OBD port.
I think lots of people would love to know how to do it. Please post when you got it done with detail info. I returned my dashcam because I can't find a switched power source.
 

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I hope to get to it next week. Speaking of Dash Cams, I had one facing rear traffic in the back window, powered by the 12 V Port, and powered all the time. I noticed the range on the Keyfob went down to zero, replaced the batteries, still zero, removed the cam and it went back to normal. Ya Never Know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think lots of people would love to know how to do it. Please post when you got it done with detail info. I returned my dashcam because I can't find a switched power source.
Right now I got a splitter that is switched, so I can leave it plugged in and operate a GPS and have a couple of USB ports for the phone. What I don't like is how close the 12 v plug is to the rear cup holder. They should redesigned it better. What I bought from Amazon is SUPERONE 200W 2-Socket Cigarette Lighter Splitter Power Adapter, USB C Car Charger with 18W Power Delivery 3.0 & Quick Charge 3.0 for iPhone 11/11 Pro/X/8/7, Samsung, Google Pixel and More
I still have to remember to turn it on and off. I was hoping that someone had either an OBD cable or maybe could show what they did to wire a cable to the fuse block under the glove box.
IMG_2656.jpg
 

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Right now I got a splitter that is switched, so I can leave it plugged in and operate a GPS and have a couple of USB ports for the phone. What I don't like is how close the 12 v plug is to the rear cup holder. They should redesigned it better. What I bought from Amazon is SUPERONE 200W 2-Socket Cigarette Lighter Splitter Power Adapter, USB C Car Charger with 18W Power Delivery 3.0 & Quick Charge 3.0 for iPhone 11/11 Pro/X/8/7, Samsung, Google Pixel and More
I still have to remember to turn it on and off. I was hoping that someone had either an OBD cable or maybe could show what they did to wire a cable to the fuse block under the glove box. View attachment 9463
We are spoiled brats, it is just unacceptable that we have to remember to turn on & off the dashcam while other made of vehicles have switched power built-in the fuse box 😊 . I decided to return the dashcam that I bought because I can’t find a way to eliminate the on/off hassle. I’m living in a cold zone, I don’t like the idea of draining the battery because I simply forgot to unplug/switch off the dashcam.
 

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I did the same thing, although I can't remember what wire I used, but I tapped into the overhead console and found a switched power source. I then routed the wires down to the back of the mirror in the existing wire mold that guess from the headliner to the mirror.
 

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Yes the Orange and Black wires work well in the overhead console, they time out with the battery saver module.
IMG_3557.JPG
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Maybe Not!
My battery was dead this morning. Even though the lights and the USB module shut down, I suspect the module was still awake and my battery was dead this morning. Back to drawing board.
I put a charger on it while leaving everything as it was, it was drawing 15 amps and I still got a low battery, start engine message. I clipped the wire to the USB module and the current went down, message to start went away. Just about anything electrically you do to these vehicles, has adverse effects on the different modules.
 

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My work around is a relay energized by the Orange/Green and controlling a tap off of the Universal Remote circuit, Red/White to power the USB adapter. The universal remote power has power all the time and doesn't go through any modules so it doesn't sense a load and shouldn't interfere with the shutdown process.
Update, so far so good, no dead battery this morning.
 
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