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AFMoulton said:
Reguardless of what the OLM says I religiously change my oil 3000-4000mi.... to avoid something like this. It boils down to this...if you take the time to take care of it and keep clean oil in the engine then what do you have to worry about....if you wanna believe a computer then go for it. I will stick to good old fashioned tried and true maint. IMO.
please let us know when your 09 throws the timing chain codes. i think it is a design flaw, but hope i'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Well as of this morning the vehicle is @ 36,284 mi. and is Two + years old. It has been on wuite a few looooooong distance trips(over 2000mi each way)......and no problems(fingers crossed).....will inform if i have problems.
 

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AFMoulton said:
I believe that cleaner oil is jsut better and the more often you change it the cleaner it stays...so computer or not...raplcing oil is much cheaper than replacing the engine or timeing chain or whatever it happens to be.....
This is what I believe as well. Quite honestly, I don't care if my car says I can go 3 years or 30,000 miles without changing the oil. Until the price of oil get's to be $25 or more a quart, I'm going to change my oil at no more than 5,000 miles. PERIOD. To me, the $35-$40 it takes me to change my own oil, and know that it is done correctly, and on time ( between 3,000 & 5,000 miles ) is worth changing more often than the car calls for. I truely believe what the OP has stated here, and until I see this fail on my own Traverse, or on ones very similar in maintenance schedule, I will stick to what GM says as well, and it boils down to the oil not being changed as often as it should be.

Thanks to the OP for making me feel even more secure about my decision in changing my oil between the "old school" intervals, and not listening to a computer. :thumb:
 

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2LT AWD said:
yeah..... but that lighter weight oil you used was M1 0w30 no ?? If that Esso oil you talked about came in a 0W30 weight it would be worth trying, yes ???
The two warranty approved oils thin oils that I have tested ie UOA'ed were a Canada only Petro Canada 0W30 and yes most recently the M1 0W30.

The Esso XD 0W30 is an HDEO and is (much) thicker than either of the above and have provided the best protection for my engine. Another oil I had used and is of similar viscosity was also a 0W30 known as German Castrol. However neither is warranty approved as neither are energy conserving.

I am hoping that someone on these boards will use an test some grade of Rotella (which is another HDEO)

2LT AWD said:
Isn't the viscosity loss only at high temperatures when the oil is tested in the UOA reports ,
Blackstone only tests viscosity at 100C but other labs will test at both 40C and 100C.
 

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copperbeech said:
The two warranty approved oils thin oils that I have tested ie UOA'ed were a Canada only Petro Canada 0W30 and yes most recently the M1 0W30.

The Esso XD 0W30 is an HDEO and is (much) thicker than either of the above and have provided the best protection for my engine. Another oil I had used and is of similar viscosity was also a 0W30 known as German Castrol. However neither is warranty approved as neither are energy conserving.

I am hoping that someone on these boards will use an test some grade of Rotella (which is another HDEO)

Blackstone only tests viscosity at 100C but other labs will test at both 40C and 100C.
Blackstone tested mine a two temps.
 

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Sounds like good advice, but I'm still wondering about those who've changed at 3,000 mile intervals and STILL had the chain fail....what do you say about that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
@09Enclave, I would first ask What type of Oil was used at the interchange? and second what type of filter....but after reading most of the posts from the people who have had the timing chain fail they were waiting till the "Change Engine Oil" Message was displayed on the dash before changing the oil. I have almost 37K miles on mine now and it runs just as good as the day I bought it...Mainly because i use a good quality SYNTHETIC 5W-30 oil that I still change at 3000-4000 Mi intervals.

I think someone said it in another thread but How can you expect to pay $35,000+++ for a car and then get mad about having to take care of it by something simple like Oil Changes regularly.

Sorry but IMHO OIL is the cheapest protection you can buy for your car so why not spend an extra $3 or $4 bucks for a quart to get something that is proven and will last.
 

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Paying a few extra $ for very good oil is well worth it .... ;)

Also paying $4-6 more for a better oil filter done to 15-20 mirons with a syntheic material well also help keep the oil in good condition. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
2LT AWD said:
Paying a few extra $ for very good oil is well worth it .... ;)

Also paying $4-6 more for a better oil filter done to 15-20 mirons with a syntheic material well also help keep the oil in good condition. :thumb:
+1 Totally Agreed.... Better Product equals better outcome..... Better Living Through Chemistry
:beer: :cheers:
 

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copperbeech said:
As I have said before (ie too often :-[) such a program i.e. changing oil much more frequently than has been recommended by GM is just a stop gap measure. Specifically I am convinced that timing chains for the 2011 (probably for the 2010s) are physically different chains (materials/design) than we see for the 2009 DI engines. And *if* this is true I might want my 09 chains to fail sooner rather than later (i.e. prior to the expiration of the powertrain warranty) thereby getting the new and improved chains on their dime.

:angryfire:I have a 2010 Traverse, build date 10/09. It is in the dealers possesion now, 1 Mar 2011, for second time the CEL has turned on and DTC is P0300. Not sure how long it will be down, but one more strike and the lemon law gets invoked, time will tell. :angryfire:
 

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off the top of my head-- the P0300 is for misfires right? in this case general--- the P03XX will show a particular cylinder...
 

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2LT AWD said:
Why don't we use a lighter oil that allows for quicker flow during start up , like a 0W30 oil. By doing this the oil will get to those smaller and farther oil holes faster and quicker helping to reduce premature wearing of the timing chain and other components . It will cost a few dollars more/quart to use but it will help along with a very good oil filter.

I agree ,regular oil changes are a necessity to help prevent those small oil hole from blocking up . :thumb:
Most American made engines don't have the tight tolerences to use lower weight oils. You could use a 0W oil
instead of a 5W though.
 

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copperhead13 said:
Most American made engines don't have the tight tolerences to use lower weight oils.
It is basically only GM that doesnt specify a 20 weight for any of its recent engines ie many Ford and Chrysler engines use 5W20.

copperhead13 said:
You could use a 0W oil
instead of a 5W though.
I agree in that a 0W30 does everything a 5W30 can do and more. However also realize that a 0W30 can be (significantly) thicker than a 5W30.
 

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copperbeech said:
It is basically only GM that doesnt specify a 20 weight for any of its recent engines ie many Ford and Chrysler engines use 5W20.

I agree in that a 0W30 does everything a 5W30 can do and more. However also realize that a 0W30 can be (significantly) thicker than a 5W30.
0W is thicker than 5W? - I thought the 0W was thinner than 5W when cold.
 

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copperhead13 said:
0W is thicker than 5W? - I thought the 0W was thinner than 5W when cold.
It depends how cold. Below a certain temperature the 0W will be lighter and flow more easily (than a 5W30) but sometimes that temperature cutoff is well below what most of us ever experience...even if we live in a climate which gets real winter.
 

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mwyche2 said:
Did this actually fix the issue?
This is an OLD THREAD, but some points can be repeated, regarding the timing chain issue.

The original poster spoke of his grandfather with 40 + years as a service manager, who now has gathered timing chain info. Good info was provided.

Like that grandfather, I continue to gather info ..... or I'm fed info from my GM contacts, after my too many years with GM.

The timing chains were the "end result", the "final blow", after other items and situations occurred, within the engine, and its design.

Think in terms of a heart attack. The heart fails, but the actual failure is caused by the restriction, within an artery.

Earlier '09 engines had a restricted, or UNDERSIZED OIL FEED PASSAGE, a passage providing oil to the timing chains.

That oil feed passage has the responsibility of lubricating the timing chains.

Couple that UNDERSIZED OIL FEED PASSAGE scenario with the advertised, extended oil change intervals. Extended oil change intervals can lead to sludge build up. Overall lack of maintenance can ALSO lead to a sludge filled engine.

Sludge collecting in an UNDERSIZED OIL FEED PASSAGE can lead to oil starvation, reducing critical oil circulation to the timing chains.

No oil circulation = failures of the timing chains.

If you were the deciding GM executive, do you replace all the known engine blocks with the UNDERSIZED OIL FEED PASSAGE, for BIG BUCKS, or do you simply reset the OLM, for lesser BIG BUCKS, to lessen the intervals between oil changes, hoping that the sludge build up will be minimized, within the UNDERSIZED OIL FEED PASSAGE ? We all know how that "problem" was addressed.

Known by VIN identification, the later '09 and newer model run engines have a LARGER OIL FEED PASSAGE incorporated, into its engine design.

Neither the OLM / ECM recalibration or the timing chains replacement are recalls.

RECALLS have no expiration date. Both of these policies have expiration dates.

The OLM / ECM is known as a "customer satisfaction" policy, while the replacement of the timing chains is a "warranty extension" of the factory warranty.

I own a late production '09. 88,000 miles now.

My oil is not synthetic, my oil is 5W 30. My oil changes do not go beyond 4 months or 4,000 miles, WHICHEVER comes first.

My timing chains are original .... as of today, anyhow. :cheers:
 
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