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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New Bolts Required, New Torque Specification on HFV6 Water Pump
July 2, 2012
A new water pump fastening procedure has been implemented on all High Feature V6 engines (2.8L, 3.0L, and 3.6L) on all models (2004-2013 model years) to help reduce the potential for water pump gasket leaks. This new procedure requires NEW bolts to be used when attaching a water pump. It also requires a third pass with an additional 45 degree turn when tightening the bolts.



The new torque procedure puts the bolts into yield, so the bolts MUST be replaced when they are removed. Old/reused bolts will break if reinstalled. The following procedure applies to all model years and all RPOs of the HFV6 engine.



1. Ensure that the engine front cover and water pump are clear of old gasket material.
2. Ensure that the water pump mounting bolt holes in the front cover are completely clean and dry.
3. Place a new water pump gasket on the water pump.
4. Place the water pump in position on the front cover.
5. Install the water pump bolts finger tight.
6. Tighten the water pump bolts in sequence to 10 N·m (89 lb. in.).
7. Tighten the water pump bolts a second pass in sequence to 10 N·m (89 lb. in.).
8. Tighten the bolts a final pass in the sequence shown an additional 45 degrees. (Fig. 2)


 

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Seems that after the second retorque to 89 in/lbs or 7.4 ft/lbs you would exceed the required spec's .
That would mean you turn the bolt another 1/8 of a turn after it's torqued....weird why don't they increase torque spec to 100 in/lbs
 

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Talked about that today will I was in the working area at my local dealer when they where looking for the water pump leak on my 2010 traverse. They ordered a new water pump and the mechanic guy told me that the bolt will not hold that mutch torque.

Looks like his gonna use the same old one still there when putting the new pump.

I just hope the new part will come with the new bolt included and this guy will check the new procedure in his computer.
 

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Nice to know...
 

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Wish I would have seen this before Tue. When I had mine changed. But I hope-by now they would have it corrected. Since the starting post was July.
 

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Water pump was changed yesterday. I bring the car at 4:15pm and 2 hours later they called back to grab the car.

they have used the same bolt and for the torque , just 2 sequences.

I will probably have to check the dexcool level often because the reserve was a bit low this morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
go to wal mart and buy a bottle of prestone pre mixed Dexcool.
(no water needed).

And tommorrow morning- once its cooled over night- check the level and pour in some dexcool to bring it to the COLD line on the side of the bottle.

Its most likely air bubbles being worked out of the cooling system
 

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Thanks for the tips sir. I will grab some at wallmart.

By the way, looks like they unplugged the battery to do the job, dont know for what purpose. They also forget the plastic shield over the radiator. Will have to buy anew one but dont know the part number.

Do i have to check also the radiator cap? Dont know about where the level should be there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
they lost the BIG plastic shield? The one that says CHEVROLET on it?
They better replace that for you.

For others---
its only required that you lift up about half of that cover.

The pull plugs/clips/fasteners are recessed. They will be damaged if they use a screwdriver etc.... as well as scratching up your cover.. around the holes.

I found a neat little tool- that can help you lift those recessed fasteners...
You can find it at Home Depot/Lowes..... I THINK they gave it to me free when I bought some paint...
The tool is used to pry open paint can lids.

Here are pics of what my coolant level looks like in my radiator.






 

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That tool is just a vintage bottle opener. Now typically just used for paint cans.
 

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hardtrailz said:
That tool is just a vintage bottle opener. Now typically just used for paint cans.
I believe the vintage bottle opener had a flat section on the inside of the loop to catch under the bottle cap. The paint can opener he is showing would not fit under the cap with the way the loop is shaped and not having a flat area.
 

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I can see the flat spot to catch near the bottom of the loop.
 

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hardtrailz said:
I can see the flat spot to catch near the bottom of the loop.
That flat spot is to place under the lid of a paint can. It would not work under a bottle cap because there is no way to use it as a fulcrum and pull the cap off. The flat part has to be in the loop end and not bent at an angle like the one shown in the previous post. Here is a picture of a vintage bottle opener. You can see how it would work, and why the one shown above would not work. Believe me, I have used plenty of "vintage" bottle openers in my time. Here are two different types. :cheers:



 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ahhh the opposite end--- can opener..
 

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hardtrailz said:
The ole church keys ;)
Working in the garage and I had just come across one of the paint can openers like he posted. You are correct, his fingers were covering one of the flats, and the way the opener was being held, you could not see the third flat either. You saved me from having to post another picture of what I just found showing you were correct. Never even realized that it could be used for opening bottles! :blob:
 
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