Load resistors got the leds to turn off...but my console dial showing towing/snow remains lit. Not sure what that's about. I even removed the leds..removed the load resistor and still the snow/towing light stays on...hmmm
LED Lighting/Bulbs
It's nice that GM put in LED bulbs for the interior lighting and for the tail lights, BUT they didn't finish the package IMO.
The puddle lights (at the bottom of the door) are still regular bulbs.
Along with the license plate lights & the reverse bulbs, which look kinda strange & not as classy IMO.
Do higher trims get LED bulbs there, possibly?
Or has anyone else upgraded, or thought about upgrading, those to LED's to match?
The puddle lights (at the bottom of the door) are still regular bulbs.
Along with the license plate lights & the reverse bulbs, which look kinda strange & not as classy IMO.
Do higher trims get LED bulbs there, possibly?
Or has anyone else upgraded, or thought about upgrading, those to LED's to match?
21 - 40 of 61 Posts
Load resistors got the leds to turn off...but my console dial showing towing/snow remains lit. Not sure what that's about. I even removed the leds..removed the load resistor and still the snow/towing light stays on...hmmm
Interesting. I did noticed when I installed the first led that I had no issues and after installing the second that’s when they stayed on. Hopefully there is a way to bypass this because it was looking so beautiful and lit up my entire garage.
Well, my worries about the trailer/snow traction switch staying lit had nothing to do with the wiring. They turn off after ten min or so. Everything working fine with the load resistors, although the resistors do get very hot. Maybe I need different ones?Load resistors got the leds to turn off...but my console dial showing towing/snow remains lit. Not sure what that's about. I even removed the leds..removed the load resistor and still the snow/towing light stays on...hmmm
Interesting. I did noticed when I installed the first led that I had no issues and after installing the second that’s when they stayed on. Hopefully there is a way to bypass this because it was looking so beautiful and lit up my entire garage.
Resistors come not only in resistance (i.e, how many ohms), but also in wattage (how many watts). Most standard resistors are 1/4 watt. You probably should get 1/2 or 1 watt versions.Well, my worries about the trailer/snow traction switch staying lit had nothing to do with the wiring. They turn off after ten min or so. Everything working fine with the load resistors, although the resistors do get very hot. Maybe I need different ones?
I'm using ones that say 25w and 6ohms. I saw some 50w 6ohms ones on Amazon. Maybe those would be better?Resistors come not only in resistance (i.e, how many ohms), but also in wattage (how many watts). Most standard resistors are 1/4 watt. You probably should get 1/2 or 1 watt versions.Well, my worries about the trailer/snow traction switch staying lit had nothing to do with the wiring. They turn off after ten min or so. Everything working fine with the load resistors, although the resistors do get very hot. Maybe I need different ones?
25 watts sounds like they would be very large. But you can always go big on wattage, it won't hurt anything. You could put a 100 watt resistor in the place of a 1/4 watt resistor and it would work just fine.I'm using ones that say 25w and 6ohms. I saw some 50w 6ohms ones on Amazon. Maybe those would be better?
So assuming the resistors you have now are the proper ohms (i.e., the lights are working correctly - not too dim, not too bright, not burning out), get a resistor of the same ohms, but more watts. Do you know the wattage of the resistors you have now?
This site says you need 50W, 6 ohms:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Install-Load-Resistors-for-LED-Turn-Signal-/
25w 6ohms and they're not very big at all25 watts sounds like they would be very large. But you can always go big on wattage, it won't hurt anything. You could put a 100 watt resistor in the place of a 1/4 watt resistor and it would work just fine.I'm using ones that say 25w and 6ohms. I saw some 50w 6ohms ones on Amazon. Maybe those would be better?
So assuming the resistors you have now are the proper ohms (i.e., the lights are working correctly - not too dim, not too bright, not burning out), get a resistor of the same ohms, but more watts. Do you know the wattage of the resistors you have now?
This site says you need 50W, 6 ohms:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Install-Load-Resistors-for-LED-Turn-Signal-/
http://www.pilotautomotive.com/led/IL-LDRS-A.html
I don't know if getting hot is normal or not, and I don't know how hot you think is hot, as I've not replaced any lights. But if you think it's excessive, I'd get some of the 50 watt ones.
They seem cheap enough. Looks like 2" x 7/8":
https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY
They seem cheap enough. Looks like 2" x 7/8":
https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY
If using 25W, you've maxed out what the resistor is capable of on the 12V circuit. If voltage goes over 12V which it could(variance in regulation during charging of battery, etc), you've exceeded the value of the resistor.
12V/6ohms = 2Amps
12V*2Amps = 24W
So yes I bet they are getting very hot.
I would change them out for 50W to be safe and give yourself some head room.
25W might last forever if heat-sinked to metal, and if used for reverse lights then not used very often and not on very long so may be OK. Wouldn't rush to change them out, but something to think about.
12V/6ohms = 2Amps
12V*2Amps = 24W
So yes I bet they are getting very hot.
I would change them out for 50W to be safe and give yourself some head room.
25W might last forever if heat-sinked to metal, and if used for reverse lights then not used very often and not on very long so may be OK. Wouldn't rush to change them out, but something to think about.
I was messing around with the bulbs today too and the same thing happened to me.....so did those stay lit even when stock?Well, my worries about the trailer/snow traction switch staying lit had nothing to do with the wiring. They turn off after ten min or so
(I honestly can't remember or just never noticed)
Stock:I was messing around with the bulbs today too and the same thing happened to me.....so did those stay lit even when stock?
(I honestly can't remember or just never noticed)
When car is on - the green, yellow, etc colored LED for the mode selected if lighted
After car is turned off with green or yellow LEDs in the ignition button out - the white backlight LEDs in the mode selection switch stay lighted for about 5 - 10 minutes and then turn off and stay off
After 10 minutes nothing should be lit except the chevron projected on the ground for the trunk foot release when the keyfob approaches
Awesome, thanks! All is well thenStock:
When car is on - the green, yellow, etc colored LED for the mode selected if lighted
After car is turned off with green or yellow LEDs in the ignition button out - the white backlight LEDs in the mode selection switch stay lighted for about 5 - 10 minutes and then turn off and stay off
After 10 minutes nothing should be lit except the chevron projected on the ground for the trunk foot release when the keyfob approaches
I guess I just never noticed it before
Resistors or not?
Thanks for all replies/explanations. I got a little lost so I want to ask:
2018 Traverse AWD LS- DO i need the resistors when upgrading to the Phillips 921 LED bulbs for the reverse lights?
TIA for you time/ response!
Thanks for all replies/explanations. I got a little lost so I want to ask:
2018 Traverse AWD LS- DO i need the resistors when upgrading to the Phillips 921 LED bulbs for the reverse lights?
TIA for you time/ response!
the back up lights only get energized when you backing up or at parking, I doubt they are monitored through circuit.Thanks for all replies/explanations. I got a little lost so I want to ask:
2018 Traverse AWD LS- DO i need the resistors when upgrading to the Phillips 921 LED bulbs for the reverse lights?
TIA for you time/ response!
Anyone have confirmation on upgrading the reverse lights to LED? Do we need resistors or not? I can't imagine the BCM monitors the reverse lights...
I just changed out the door "puddle" lights, the center console, and the rear license plates to LED bulbs on our 2018 & now on our 2020
Still looking for a reverse LED bulbs that'll work properly though.
Someone just posted saying they found some Lasfit ones or something...so maybe those will (finally) work???
Still looking for a reverse LED bulbs that'll work properly though.
Someone just posted saying they found some Lasfit ones or something...so maybe those will (finally) work???
Is the puddle and console a lot brighter? Can you remember what brand or numbers they were? Thanks
Yes! Plus they now match the rest of the interior LED lighting.Is the puddle and console a lot brighter? Can you remember what brand or numbers they were? Thanks
They were all the same bulb type though, replacing the little OEM 194 wedge bulbs.
The LED's I have are from deAutoKey. I (already) had them leftover from my VW days, lol
look FOR 194 LED super-brite, just a web search will give you many options,. Amazon has them. Made a big difference
921 912 W16W LED Reverse Backup Trunk Cargo Light Bulbs
LASFIT T15 921 CANBUS error free led bulbs are 1400 lumens extremely bright. Fit most backup light, dome light, trunk light, etc. We provide 1 year worry-free warranty.
![www.lasfit.com]()
www.lasfit.com
No need for external resistors as these have them built into the housing. Make sure you insert the LEDs all the way in the socket. You can test by depressing the "unlock" function on key fob before you reassemble.
I will post the other LASFIT LEDs part numbers for the front blinkers and fog lights, each NOT requiring any external resistors. It's well over 2 months and no issues.
LASFIT T15 921 CANBUS error free led bulbs are 1400 lumens extremely bright. Fit most backup light, dome light, trunk light, etc. We provide 1 year worry-free warranty.
No need for external resistors as these have them built into the housing. Make sure you insert the LEDs all the way in the socket. You can test by depressing the "unlock" function on key fob before you reassemble.
I will post the other LASFIT LEDs part numbers for the front blinkers and fog lights, each NOT requiring any external resistors. It's well over 2 months and no issues.
21 - 40 of 61 Posts
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