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I'm guessing bad crankshaft position sensor. Had that on my '95 Eagle Vision back in Y2K. In my case, the tach would just drop to zero, the car would lurch, and it would come right back up and be OK. It did this every once in awhile for a couple of weeks, until it died completely on my way to work. Had to hitch the last 2 miles to work. Had a coworker take me to the car at lunch and it started right up. Drove it right to the mechanic and they replaced the crankshaft position sensor. End of issue.
I replaced the crank shaft position sensor before I made the video...Hmmmm
 

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Our 2010 keeps shutting off. Absolutely no power while driving. Out of nowhere. And then it will start up when we put jumper cables to it some times. But the battery is brand new and so is the alternator. Do you believe your issue is the same as ours?? This car is a death trap.
 

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Replacing the fuse & relay box is easy. A couple of bolts and it pulls right off. A new one runs about $165 on gmpartsdepartment.com

Disconnect and tape off the red battery lead.

View attachment 6833

Loosen the two bolts and remove the old one. There may be some clips around the edges to unclip; I think.

View attachment 6835

Install the new one and tighten the two bolts.

View attachment 6837

Reconnect the battery lead.

View attachment 6839

But I'm skeptical it will fix your problem.
How did you get the bolts out?
 

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Our 2010 keeps shutting off. Absolutely no power while driving. Out of nowhere. And then it will start up when we put jumper cables to it some times. But the battery is brand new and so is the alternator. Do you believe your issue is the same as ours?? This car is a death trap.
I'm experiencing the same issues as you. Replaced battery, alternator and an A.C. component on the drivers side. Drives fine for a few months, then the Service battery Charging System light comes on. Its got to be an electrical issue related to the power between the alternator and battery...im guessing. Did you end up replacing the fuse box?? If so was this the issue?
 

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I’m a new member but decided to post here first.
(disclaimer- I’m not a professional. The following is a summary of what I did to my own vehicle. Any repairs or modifications done by you will be at your own risk.)

My wife’s 2014 Chevrolet Traverse LT has been experiencing the “service stability track/traction control/check engine light/reduced engine power” calamity for approx. one year. I’ve been trying to track down the problem ever since. And because the issue happens intermittently it is hard to know if you’ve actually fixed it or not. That is until, at the worst possible moment, the vehicle shudders & drops into limp mode once again.

In searching through the hundreds (maybe thousands) of on-line posts I read many claims of what needed to be done to correct the issue so I tried them based on my perception of which ones got the most attention.

  • Dirty Throttle Body – Cleaned it but it did not correct the issue.
  • Replaced the entire Throttle Body with a new GM unit – Still no difference
  • Tighten the two screws at the top of the under-hood fuse box. (Many of the posts warned not to tighten these too tight because it was easy to strip the threads. This became important later….) Snugged them down – but no improvement.
  • I was about to replace the throttle-by-wire pedal position sensor when I found this post – IT’S The Fuse Box!!!! (Thanks Vindar Mowjood!)
  • I decided to pursue this as a possible fix except I did not want to pay the approx. $300 for a new “upper half” fuse box nor did I like the idea of trying to splice in one small terminal lead into the lower half that the new fuse box would plug into. This is what I did:

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable (behind the front passenger seat in the floor)
  • Unscrew the (2) “easily stripped” upper fuse box screws. Used several small, flat blade screwdrivers to hold open the retainer clips around the periphery of the box to allow it to be pulled up off the lower piece. (you may need to loosen the (2) screws more to allow the upper box to pull loose.)
  • NOTE: The threads of the (2) screws DO NOT STRIP EASILY! IMO they were not designed correctly. There is only a small length of threads on the screws which allows them to pass completely through the “caged nuts” in the lower half when tightened. These screws are also non-removable. (They have a one-way pushed-on washer that I assume was done to keep from dropping the screws when upper fuse box was removed.) But there is some up & down free play with these screws….so to keep the limited number threads engaged with the threads of the caged nuts I made a couple of spacers out of round washers. (see pic)
  • Gauge Electronic engineering Gas Auto part Control panel

  • Product Audio equipment Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Auto part
  • Now, on to the terminal #51 connection. All of the male ends of the connections are in the upper fuse box. The female side of the connections are in the lower half. I could see arcing on the #51 male connection.
    Automotive lighting Fluid Asphalt Water Bumper

    This was easily removed with a small machinist file. You could use an emery board also. The female connection was not as easily seen for inspection. I did not want to try to clean it of fear of damaging it. (It’s very small) So to ensure I got a better connection I bent the male spade connector just slightly in the direction of the contacts inside the female side. You don’t want to get crazy with this bend or the upper box may not engage the lower section correctly.
  • Once the fuse box top section is carefully pressed onto the lower section the previously mentioned washers should be placed under the (2) screws. Tighten the screws down with firm hand torque. (I would use a Phillips screwdriver, not a socket or wrench)
  • It's been (4) weeks of daily driving with no issues.
 

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I’m a new member but decided to post here first.
(disclaimer- I’m not a professional. The following is a summary of what I did to my own vehicle. Any repairs or modifications done by you will be at your own risk.)

My wife’s 2014 Chevrolet Traverse LT has been experiencing the “service stability track/traction control/check engine light/reduced engine power” calamity for approx. one year. I’ve been trying to track down the problem ever since. And because the issue happens intermittently it is hard to know if you’ve actually fixed it or not. That is until, at the worst possible moment, the vehicle shudders & drops into limp mode once again.

In searching through the hundreds (maybe thousands) of on-line posts I read many claims of what needed to be done to correct the issue so I tried them based on my perception of which ones got the most attention.

  • Dirty Throttle Body – Cleaned it but it did not correct the issue.
  • Replaced the entire Throttle Body with a new GM unit – Still no difference
  • Tighten the two screws at the top of the under-hood fuse box. (Many of the posts warned not to tighten these too tight because it was easy to strip the threads. This became important later….) Snugged them down – but no improvement.
  • I was about to replace the throttle-by-wire pedal position sensor when I found this post – IT’S The Fuse Box!!!! (Thanks Vindar Mowjood!)
  • I decided to pursue this as a possible fix except I did not want to pay the approx. $300 for a new “upper half” fuse box nor did I like the idea of trying to splice in one small terminal lead into the lower half that the new fuse box would plug into. This is what I did:

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable (behind the front passenger seat in the floor)
  • Unscrew the (2) “easily stripped” upper fuse box screws. Used several small, flat blade screwdrivers to hold open the retainer clips around the periphery of the box to allow it to be pulled up off the lower piece. (you may need to loosen the (2) screws more to allow the upper box to pull loose.)
  • NOTE: The threads of the (2) screws DO NOT STRIP EASILY! IMO they were not designed correctly. There is only a small length of threads on the screws which allows them to pass completely through the “caged nuts” in the lower half when tightened. These screws are also non-removable. (They have a one-way pushed-on washer that I assume was done to keep from dropping the screws when upper fuse box was removed.) But there is some up & down free play with these screws….so to keep the limited number threads engaged with the threads of the caged nuts I made a couple of spacers out of round washers. (see pic)
  • View attachment 10787

  • View attachment 10788
  • Now, on to the terminal #51 connection. All of the male ends of the connections are in the upper fuse box. The female side of the connections are in the lower half. I could see arcing on the #51 male connection. View attachment 10789
    This was easily removed with a small machinist file. You could use an emery board also. The female connection was not as easily seen for inspection. I did not want to try to clean it of fear of damaging it. (It’s very small) So to ensure I got a better connection I bent the male spade connector just slightly in the direction of the contacts inside the female side. You don’t want to get crazy with this bend or the upper box may not engage the lower section correctly.
  • Once the fuse box top section is carefully pressed onto the lower section the previously mentioned washers should be placed under the (2) screws. Tighten the screws down with firm hand torque. (I would use a Phillips screwdriver, not a socket or wrench)
  • It's been (4) weeks of daily driving with no issue






  • Thank you so much for this! My 2010 traverse shut off while driving and wouldn’t start back I tried this and it fixed the problem.
 

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I’m a new member but decided to post here first.
(disclaimer- I’m not a professional. The following is a summary of what I did to my own vehicle. Any repairs or modifications done by you will be at your own risk.)

My wife’s 2014 Chevrolet Traverse LT has been experiencing the “service stability track/traction control/check engine light/reduced engine power” calamity for approx. one year. I’ve been trying to track down the problem ever since. And because the issue happens intermittently it is hard to know if you’ve actually fixed it or not. That is until, at the worst possible moment, the vehicle shudders & drops into limp mode once again.

In searching through the hundreds (maybe thousands) of on-line posts I read many claims of what needed to be done to correct the issue so I tried them based on my perception of which ones got the most attention.

  • Dirty Throttle Body – Cleaned it but it did not correct the issue.
  • Replaced the entire Throttle Body with a new GM unit – Still no difference
  • Tighten the two screws at the top of the under-hood fuse box. (Many of the posts warned not to tighten these too tight because it was easy to strip the threads. This became important later….) Snugged them down – but no improvement.
  • I was about to replace the throttle-by-wire pedal position sensor when I found this post – IT’S The Fuse Box!!!! (Thanks Vindar Mowjood!)
  • I decided to pursue this as a possible fix except I did not want to pay the approx. $300 for a new “upper half” fuse box nor did I like the idea of trying to splice in one small terminal lead into the lower half that the new fuse box would plug into. This is what I did:

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable (behind the front passenger seat in the floor)
  • Unscrew the (2) “easily stripped” upper fuse box screws. Used several small, flat blade screwdrivers to hold open the retainer clips around the periphery of the box to allow it to be pulled up off the lower piece. (you may need to loosen the (2) screws more to allow the upper box to pull loose.)
  • NOTE: The threads of the (2) screws DO NOT STRIP EASILY! IMO they were not designed correctly. There is only a small length of threads on the screws which allows them to pass completely through the “caged nuts” in the lower half when tightened. These screws are also non-removable. (They have a one-way pushed-on washer that I assume was done to keep from dropping the screws when upper fuse box was removed.) But there is some up & down free play with these screws….so to keep the limited number threads engaged with the threads of the caged nuts I made a couple of spacers out of round washers. (see pic)
  • View attachment 10787

  • View attachment 10788
  • Now, on to the terminal #51 connection. All of the male ends of the connections are in the upper fuse box. The female side of the connections are in the lower half. I could see arcing on the #51 male connection. View attachment 10789
    This was easily removed with a small machinist file. You could use an emery board also. The female connection was not as easily seen for inspection. I did not want to try to clean it of fear of damaging it. (It’s very small) So to ensure I got a better connection I bent the male spade connector just slightly in the direction of the contacts inside the female side. You don’t want to get crazy with this bend or the upper box may not engage the lower section correctly.
  • Once the fuse box top section is carefully pressed onto the lower section the previously mentioned washers should be placed under the (2) screws. Tighten the screws down with firm hand torque. (I would use a Phillips screwdriver, not a socket or wrench)
  • It's been (4) weeks of daily driving with no issues.
Glad this worked for you! Just received my new fuse block today and replaced it, well no power after I replaced it, figured the fuse box was a dud, put the old one back on and zero power, it is like the battery terminal is unplugged, key is actually stuck in the ignition now as what happens when there is no power getting to the electrical system. No bent pins on either block, was very careful removing and installing the blocks. Am I missing anything here? Definitely see what you are talking about with regards to the two bolts that are designed to ensure the terminals on the fuse block interface tightly with the lower receiver block, I have the same issue, completely agree it was a design or manufacturing issue with the bolts and/or threads. Hopefully I missed a step somewhere, but followed the same steps you did - but ZERO power with either the new fuse box or old fuse box installed. I did test and I have 12+ volts coming to the fuse block from the battery. For grins, I fully charged the battery too - new AGM battery, so feel there are no issues with the batter. But zero power when I switch on the key, no lights on the dashboard at all. No power at all. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the great post by the way.
 

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cd.foster,
Have you checked if there are any codes thrown? I purchased a cheap OBD2 reader from Harbor Freight ($30) that will give the code and allow you to clear it.
-The starter switch seems to be another Traverse weak spot to check. (not the key switch but the actual switch in the lower left steering column area) I think many have had a code thrown on this issue.
Hope you can find the issue.
 

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cd.foster,
Have you checked if there are any codes thrown? I purchased a cheap OBD2 reader from Harbor Freight ($30) that will give the code and allow you to clear it.
-The starter switch seems to be another Traverse weak spot to check. (not the key switch but the actual switch in the lower left steering column area) I think many have had a code thrown on this issue.
Hope you can find the issue.
Thanks for the help Germaneighter. It was throwing P1682 and P0689 codes. A lot of homework points to this: 19-NA-276 1..4 (nhtsa.gov) and this: MC-10151875-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov) - so figured I'd just replace the block rather than dealing with a "terminated lead" as the bulletin indicated as I couldn't find instructions as to how to do that. I 'thought' the fuse block replacement would be easy! LOL! go figure. After troubleshooting today, I do have power to the under hood fuse box, I have power to Batt 1 fuse, I do not have power to the under dash fuse box, so I am thinking, at this point, it is an issue with a connection in the female connectors (fuse block harness) that the under hood fuse box attaches to, not sure how I can fix those - they are scary looking :) Probably gonna be a trip to my Chevy shop for help with that. :-( Thanks again for the reply.
 

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Just a quick follow-up. We have not had any issues with my wife's 2014 since I did the terminal #51 cleaning & the fuse box "U"-Washers. It is driven daily.
 

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I’m a new member but decided to post here first.
(disclaimer- I’m not a professional. The following is a summary of what I did to my own vehicle. Any repairs or modifications done by you will be at your own risk.)

My wife’s 2014 Chevrolet Traverse LT has been experiencing the “service stability track/traction control/check engine light/reduced engine power” calamity for approx. one year. I’ve been trying to track down the problem ever since. And because the issue happens intermittently it is hard to know if you’ve actually fixed it or not. That is until, at the worst possible moment, the vehicle shudders & drops into limp mode once again.

In searching through the hundreds (maybe thousands) of on-line posts I read many claims of what needed to be done to correct the issue so I tried them based on my perception of which ones got the most attention.

  • Dirty Throttle Body – Cleaned it but it did not correct the issue.
  • Replaced the entire Throttle Body with a new GM unit – Still no difference
  • Tighten the two screws at the top of the under-hood fuse box. (Many of the posts warned not to tighten these too tight because it was easy to strip the threads. This became important later….) Snugged them down – but no improvement.
  • I was about to replace the throttle-by-wire pedal position sensor when I found this post – IT’S The Fuse Box!!!! (Thanks Vindar Mowjood!)
  • I decided to pursue this as a possible fix except I did not want to pay the approx. $300 for a new “upper half” fuse box nor did I like the idea of trying to splice in one small terminal lead into the lower half that the new fuse box would plug into. This is what I did:

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable (behind the front passenger seat in the floor)
  • Unscrew the (2) “easily stripped” upper fuse box screws. Used several small, flat blade screwdrivers to hold open the retainer clips around the periphery of the box to allow it to be pulled up off the lower piece. (you may need to loosen the (2) screws more to allow the upper box to pull loose.)
  • NOTE: The threads of the (2) screws DO NOT STRIP EASILY! IMO they were not designed correctly. There is only a small length of threads on the screws which allows them to pass completely through the “caged nuts” in the lower half when tightened. These screws are also non-removable. (They have a one-way pushed-on washer that I assume was done to keep from dropping the screws when upper fuse box was removed.) But there is some up & down free play with these screws….so to keep the limited number threads engaged with the threads of the caged nuts I made a couple of spacers out of round washers. (see pic)
  • View attachment 10787

  • View attachment 10788
  • Now, on to the terminal #51 connection. All of the male ends of the connections are in the upper fuse box. The female side of the connections are in the lower half. I could see arcing on the #51 male connection. View attachment 10789
    This was easily removed with a small machinist file. You could use an emery board also. The female connection was not as easily seen for inspection. I did not want to try to clean it of fear of damaging it. (It’s very small) So to ensure I got a better connection I bent the male spade connector just slightly in the direction of the contacts inside the female side. You don’t want to get crazy with this bend or the upper box may not engage the lower section correctly.
  • Once the fuse box top section is carefully pressed onto the lower section the previously mentioned washers should be placed under the (2) screws. Tighten the screws down with firm hand torque. (I would use a Phillips screwdriver, not a socket or wrench)
  • It's been (4) weeks of daily driving with no issues.
I was so relieved to see your post a few months ago. Been experiencing the same issues with no resolve. Replaced battery, alternator x2, new fuse box, and probably 2-3 other parts(can't remember exactly). Anyways long story short, after I replaced the fused box under hood, my traverse drove fine for a couple months then boom....same issues again. Battery light pops on, power saving mode, traction control light, etc. So I seen your post and my hubby made those sane spacers on put on screws. Seem to fix the problem, until my lights all popped on AGAIN, THANKSGIVING🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️. Im literally brain jumbled over this issue!! We can not figure out what else to do. The dealership can't check it unless the truck is actually experiencing the problem right then & there. And of course, if I take it there, the truck drives completely fine. One Chevy shop, kept it a week, no issues. I'm determined to figure out what is causing this. It seems like it's some sort of faulty connections in the power coming from the battery. As soon as I unhook the battery connectors, let it sit 5 minutes, hook back up, truck cranks no problem. Battery gauge sitting at 14. If anyone knows anything else or has a resolution to this problem, please reply!!! Thank you!! Glad you fixed your issue!
 

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I replaced the fuse block because my Traverse has been shutting down on me for months. Driving on the highway or
even a local side road. Engine just shuts off. Also, many times stability track, reduced power, etc. Other owners had many repairs done that did not solve the problem. I had a chevy dealer replace my ignition switch. Car ran fine for 300 miles then started shutting down again. Many posts said "just replace the fuse box." GM Service Bulletin PIP5094 was issued
in 2013 relating to loose pin terminal in fuse block if the fault codes are p1682 and P0689. I had those codes.
Another GM Bulletin November 2019 PIT5074 said loose terminals in fuse block "All Brands, All Models 2005-2020"
cause intermittent electrical problems.
Another GM Bulletin December 2019 19-NA-276 entitled "Potential Reduced Engine Power Message Displayed and/or Engine stall with DTCs P1682 and or P0689Set". GM dealers were told to replace the FUSE Block and replace terminal 51 in X50A fuse block-under hood X3.
There was also a preliminary GM Bulletin PIT5643 entitled "Intermittent Reduced Engine Power or Stall with p0689
and/or P1682." The cause was determined to be 'Terminal #51 at X3 Connector of Under Hood Fuse Block loose terminal
tension with arcing corrosion on terminal #51 on fuse block. Correction was: remove the fuse block and use a cell phone camera to zoom in on terminal #51 and see if there is an arc spot on the terminal. "I if arc spot is found, replace under hood fuse panel and terminal 51 in the harness using a terminal lead. Part # for the terminal lead: Wire Kit, Splice Part Number 84757974.
All GM cars and trucks for the past 15 years could experience this problem. In fact through Class Action Suits GM has paid out 100s of millions of dollars to the families of the many people who have been injured and over 100 people who have been killed due to reduce power, engine stalling issues.
So, I replaced the fuse box. I bought the wire splice kit, $9.21, but I have no idea how to fix that part of the issue.
I did take a cell phone photo of Terminal #51 on the under side of my old fuse block. It does have an arc burn mark.
Sorry for the long explanation, but I have been living with this problem for over a year.
Was the fuse box the actual problem?? Is your vehicle still driving ok? I went through all these same issues with my Chevy traverse, replaced fuse box, battery, alternator, and several other parts. Still having the same problem. (Voltage dropping for battery, battery light coming on, check charging system, battery power saving mode). Please update, not sure what else to do. Thanks.
 

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My Traverse had the same issue. When running, it would go into low power mode with all of the lights described previously. We would just shut it off and let it sit a minute, and restart it, and it would run fine. We did noticed that it happened only during rainy or damp weather. I have a code reader, and it pulled the same ignition side and bank code previously mentioned. Two weeks ago, it was dry, but very cold (SE Michigan), and this time it totally shut down. All of the electrics worked, but the engine would not fire. It cranked really strong, but would not fire, like there was no spark. To make a long story short, I removed the fuse box, cleaned terminal 51, gave the pin a slight twist, as opposed to bending it slightly as suggested by Germaneighter above, reinstalled it, and it fired right up. I did not replace the pin in the mating connector. The only issue I had was I could not get the screws to get a good bite into the connectors. I think it is because they aren't fully seated into the bottom of the fuse box, but seated good enough to make electrical connection. When the weather gets warmer, I will remove the box and try to properly seat the connectors and tighten the screws. I will also replace pin 51 in the connector with the kit specified in a previous post. I will post updates as time goes on.
 
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