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We have the same issue with our 2013 Chevy Traverse. Stabilitrack off then on message all the time. Sometimes the gauges (fuel, speed, RPM and voltage) swing back and fourth when this is happening. I replaced the fuse block under the hood but it did not solve the problem. If I get the engine light then it does not want to shift normally. Disconnect the negative battery cable behind the passenger seat and all goes back to normal for a while then message starts coming and going again. I think it is strange that a stabilitrack message could be related to multiple issues but who knows. Love the car but hate the stabilitrack issue!! I have been reading all over the net and this is a very common problem and people are throwing allot of money at it and most still not have resolved the problem.

Now to top it off the sunroof broke when my wife tried to close it yesterday on her way home from work. finally got it to close but something came loose because she said a piece of plastic went flying as it was going closed and it started making a grinding noise. Going to have to figure out how to repair that now.
 

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We just replaced the fuse/relay box in my 2010 Traverese. Now it will not start. When you turn the key radio etc. powers on. We assume that it is the anti theft system, so we tried to reset. Still no luck. Does anyone have suggestions?

I would check to see if there are any bent pins.
 

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OK. NOW - make sure none of them have blown.

You might also want to verify that the fuse box has fully engaged the 2 connectors underneath it. There have been some reports of that issue.
We are in the process of checking fuses. We even put the old fuse box in and no luck. It would run before we switched it, but we have had numerous issues with this vehicle. At about 70,000 whole engine had to be replaced. 6-8 months later a catalytic converter destroyed the exhaust. 6 weeks ago we replaced the other 2 converters and the starter. The cars RPMs would fluctuate and the door locks would cycle while driving. It has powered down and given me reduced engine power message while on the hwy, traction control errors, and will sometimes just die and no errors will be logged. Battery has been replaced and connectors inspected.
 

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We are in the process of checking fuses. We even put the old fuse box in and no luck. It would run before we switched it, but we have had numerous issues with this vehicle. At about 70,000 whole engine had to be replaced. 6-8 months later a catalytic converter destroyed the exhaust. 6 weeks ago we replaced the other 2 converters and the starter. The cars RPMs would fluctuate and the door locks would cycle while driving. It has powered down and given me reduced engine power message while on the hwy, traction control errors, and will sometimes just die and no errors will be logged. Battery has been replaced and connectors inspected.
Prongs on the fuse relay box were bent. Running again. Hopefully this will have fixed all the quirky little issues. Only time will tell. I love the size and style, but it is unbelievable the mechanical issues that this car has had. Luckily we have a 2004 Trailblazer with 200,000 miles that runs amazingly for when the 2010 won't run.
 

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tnj0510 I am on here looking this exact issue up, same exact thing happened to me replacing the fuse box not 20min ago, now it will not start, same symptoms. I do not see any bent prongs. Are you saying it was in the connector side (the two big white block connectors on the bottom) or the prongs that stick out of the fuse box itself that they plug into? That was the first thing I looked at and I cannot see anything that looks out of place. Any help is appreciated, thanks
Go read my Post #20.
 

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Sorry to bring this thread around again but I want to ask, anyone have any codes when they have been experiencing this issue?

We've had the Stabilitrak issue for a while, shows LR speed sensor which made sense as we replaced the right last year and I've seen from previous experience they go in pairs.
Our rear wiper works intermittently and the front washer spray stopped working early. We actually had to have the switch wired to the rear spray switch to make it work.

Recently we have been noticing power issues. When stopped, pressing the gas as no response for a second or so, then it will start to rev and move. Starting occasionally it would just turn over for seconds and then you would have to try again and it would fire up. Then just a few days ago I started and move the car about 50 feet with no problems. When we got back in and turned it on it wouldn't go in gear. We idled to a new parking spot. Reverse would work fine but not Drive. We stopped and went to an appointment since we were running late and when we got back to the vehicle it wouldn't start.

I am getting code P0700, P135B and P25**, I don't remember so I have to go check again. All codes point to a low circuit issue which would make sense with this. I don't want to spend $200 on the new fuse block if there is actually another issue at play. Any advise or more info will be helpful.

Thanks!!
 

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Sorry to bring this thread around again but I want to ask, anyone have any codes when they have been experiencing this issue?

We've had the Stabilitrak issue for a while, shows LR speed sensor which made sense as we replaced the right last year and I've seen from previous experience they go in pairs.
Our rear wiper works intermittently and the front washer spray stopped working early. We actually had to have the switch wired to the rear spray switch to make it work.

Recently we have been noticing power issues. When stopped, pressing the gas as no response for a second or so, then it will start to rev and move. Starting occasionally it would just turn over for seconds and then you would have to try again and it would fire up. Then just a few days ago I started and move the car about 50 feet with no problems. When we got back in and turned it on it wouldn't go in gear. We idled to a new parking spot. Reverse would work fine but not Drive. We stopped and went to an appointment since we were running late and when we got back to the vehicle it wouldn't start.

I am getting code P0700, P135B and P25**, I don't remember so I have to go check again. All codes point to a low circuit issue which would make sense with this. I don't want to spend $200 on the new fuse block if there is actually another issue at play. Any advise or more info will be helpful.

Thanks!!
Also, can anyone tell me a good way to test the fuse block? I don't mind getting dirty and checking things. I did use a multimeter and tested the TCM fuse and others. Some are reading 12~V and others aren't reading any. Do some only read when the vehicle is on?

Sorry, trying to Google it but having a hard time coming up with relevant results.
 

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Service Stabilitrak/Traction Control Off, etc.
It gave this similar series of messages in February this year along with Traction Control Off and Service Traction Control. Also got a Throttle Body message along with engine speed reduced. At that time I replaced the Throttle Body and cleaned out the mass flow sensor and the whole tube between the air filter and throttle body. I also modified the PCV valve (drilling it out). This took care of the throttle body message, but the stabilitrak/traction control stayed on. Then I saw that if the brake fluid level is low it can trigger this issue, so I topped off the brake fluid and the messages went away...

...Until this week. Now the Service Stabilitrak/Traction Control Off/Service Traction Control is back on along with the ABS light. But no throttle body message and no reduced engine speed this time. So I topped off the brake fluid again (I probably have a very slow master cylinder leak). This didn't do it this time. Today these messages came back and while I was stopped at an intersection, someone came up next to me and told me my brake lights were not coming on when I hit the brakes and turned on when I took my foot off the brake. So I took the vehicle home as quickly and safely as I could. When I got home, the brake lights were working fine (messages still on). Also before the brake light discovery on the way home I took it to Advanced Auto parts store and they told me they would not be able to get any codes with their diagnostic tool. I have Torque Pro and no codes pop up with that, either. I'm pretty sure the problem isn't throttle body this time and the problem is most likely due to the brake system.

Anyone have this variant of the Stabilitrak/Traction Control/Brakes issue? Should I go to the dealer on this one? I was going to go to Tires Plus as they've been pretty good with recent fixes, including a brake job about a year ago, but wondering if they have the expertise.
 

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Since you also got a brake light message, it could be a faulty Brake Pedal Position sensor. If you replace it it needs to be re-calibrated. My traction control messages on the 2008 were due to a bad Mass Air Flow sensor. Numerous items can generate these messages, including dirty ABS reluctor pickups on the wheel bearings.
 

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Hello all. New to the thread but having the same issue with my 2014 Traverse LS (reduced engine power, traction control off). Turn car off for a few minutes and restart--runs just fine but check engine light comes on, until it happens again (very random issue). Only code that comes up is P1682, ignition 1 switch 2. Started driving with traction control off and had no problems for 4-5 months. Checked every fuse, and changed both ignition relays just in case, to no avail (airbag light was also on--got that fixed and problem went away for 2 whole weeks...not sure if there's any connection between the two) Midas checked it out and problem is underhood fuse block. At this point I'm just going to go with replacing the fuse block. For those that took this approach--did you also replace all of the actual fuses?

All of these posts in this thread were extremely helpful to me, so thank you all very much
 

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Since you also got a brake light message, it could be a faulty Brake Pedal Position sensor. If you replace it it needs to be re-calibrated. My traction control messages on the 2008 were due to a bad Mass Air Flow sensor. Numerous items can generate these messages, including dirty ABS reluctor pickups on the wheel bearings.
electbc, I actually went to youtube last weekend and searched for similar problems I was having. I did find a video where one person has Service Stabilitrak, Traction Control Disabled, ABS light, and the Stabilitrak picture. Their brake lights were on without the pedal depressed, then turned off when they pressed the pedal. I also could not go into cruise control and it was very hard to put the vehicle in gear. I bought an AC/Delco Brake Pedal Position sensor and installed it Monday. It took those messages away and they stayed away for a day and a half. But now they came back. I was thinking maybe it was a faulty new sensor, so I was going to take it back to Autozone and get another or trade up for their higher priced (lifetime warranty) sensor. Then I saw this reply.

How do you recalibrate the brake pedal position sensor? Would I be able to do it now or should I try uninstalling it and reinstalling it and then recalibrate?
 

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Hello all. New to the thread but having the same issue with my 2014 Traverse LS (reduced engine power, traction control off). Turn car off for a few minutes and restart--runs just fine but check engine light comes on, until it happens again (very random issue). Only code that comes up is P1682, ignition 1 switch 2. Started driving with traction control off and had no problems for 4-5 months. Checked every fuse, and changed both ignition relays just in case, to no avail (airbag light was also on--got that fixed and problem went away for 2 whole weeks...not sure if there's any connection between the two) Midas checked it out and problem is underhood fuse block. At this point I'm just going to go with replacing the fuse block. For those that took this approach--did you also replace all of the actual fuses?

All of these posts in this thread were extremely helpful to me, so thank you all very much
terie, check your brake fluid level and top it off if it is a little low. I was getting all this in January/February and in the end topping off the brake fluid fixed the problem until the recent Stabilitrak problem (this time I'm not seeing reduced engine power).
 

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Update: Fuse block needs replacing--no surprise there. But I was also told a "terminated lead" needs replacing as well. Can anyone tell me what exactly is a terminated lead ??
 

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A lead that is terminated? Ok, a wire that has a connector at the end, be it a grounding ring, a positive 12 volt lug or a signal connection. Some mechanics may have different slang for talking to customers. Usually a connector which was loose and had a high current going through it will go bad, also water and salt can cause corrosion if it wasn't sealed and subject to road spray.
 

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So it's a wire with a connector on the end. Would this be one of the wires that connects the fuse block to the ECM?
 

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A terminated lead refers to a wire that is cut or ends to attach/terminate somewhere. This could be a spice, a connector, a terminal etc. There are probably thousands in a car.

I'm having the same problem with random p1682 code arrising with reduced engine power and service stability but no brake indications. I replaced the relays associated with p1682 cleaned ECM ground, and cleaned throttle body and the code came back. I just bought the fuse block . i will see if that fixes it. P1682 logically points towards the power distribution like the fuse block, relays and connections. However these software engineers dont always do things logically.
 

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I have a 2012 Traverse LT. I have had all of the common problems (Stabilitrak, Throttle Body, A/C issues, ect.) I recently let a REAL mechanic look at the car and he determined that it was the main engine FUSE BOX that generates all of the major problems with the traverse. He replaced the entire main fuse box and I havent had any electrical problems or random codes in over 6 months! He said that that is a common problem with Traverse, Impala, and Camaro.

Quit chasing problems. Buy a new fuse box.
 
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