How many miles do you have? If you have over 50k I'd do at least 2, maybe 3 of the drain and fills.Couple of questions. Since this is a partial drain and fill, do you recommend refilling and driving for a few hundred miles and drain again? I guess you can't flush or replace the filter this way. This seems to be a very easy way to drain and replace the fluid. I happen to have a plastic tray in the garage that is about 2' x 2' that I can use for this.
Second question: where/how do you dispose of the fluid? Not supposed to mix this with engine oil. We do have a hazardous waste drop off here. I could check to see if they take used transmission fluid.
Right around 191,000 or 192,000 miles. I'm putting together a list of things I need to do to it fairly soon so I can show the boss (my wife) what tools I need to do the job. Right now drain transmission fluid (at about the same time I change the engine oil again), replace sway bars, lower front bushings, control arms with ball joints, outer tie rods. I need to buy a good 1/2 inch socket set, longer ~20 to 26 mm wrenches, new 3 ton jack (my old one died), and a 1/2 inch torque wrench.How many miles do you have? If you have over 50k I'd do at least 2, maybe 3 of the drain and fills.
In my are the transmission fluid goes in the same bin as the engine oil, the coolant is the only thing that gets separated in its own bin.
No rear diff or transfer case for you, just the transmission.My 2011 Traverse is FWD, not AWD. Where would the transfer case plug be located? Since it is FWD, no rear diff, correct?
I've always given it a couple days at least, the fluid in the torque converter is a little more stubborn to mix and flush out and it's one of those things that doesn't hurt if you have the time. I'd be satisfied either way but that's the way I do it.correct me if im wrong....
The only reason I allow it to circulate.....
and what I remember reading....
Dexron VI has anti varnish additives.
If your fluid is old- these additives are now weak.
You add new fluid- even though its half the trans capacity- the additives will do some cleaning.
How much can it clean? I dont know. But I figure Id give it a tankful to circulate and do a little light cleaning...removal of varnish.
Any truth to this? I dont know.
But Id rather do this- than to do a whole fluid swap- and then end up with totally new fluid-- that is now going to clean house-- and have all that varnish remain suspended in fluid or filter.
How was the color of the fluid? It's normal for a transmission to have some particles on the plug and in the fluid.This post is a lifesaver to any DIY'er out there. Thank you rbarrios for the intructions(with pics), I was able to do my drain and fill without issues.
I have a little concern though. I had my transmission fluid tested, and the results found high aluminum content. Is that normal for the transmissions that Traverses have? I was advised to have it tested in half the interval which I plan to do at 60k miles (after 15k).
The color is pretty much the same as OP's. And what you said is correct about the particles found in the fluid. The amount of aluminum in my test result is what concerns me (just a little). I wonder if OP had his fluid tested before.How was the color of the fluid? It's normal for a transmission to have some particles on the plug and in the fluid.
Great info from both of you! Definitely interested to see how it trends with more tests!I had similar wear metals in mine. I fluid had been drain and refilled only 10k earlier and it was black. I suspect it was mostly the original fluid in there. A drain and refill only replaces 40-45%. I had all of the fluid replaced by the dealer using their fluid exchange machine. It now has 20k miles and still bright red and two subsequent tests show much lower wear metals.. Also much smoother shifting, and no surging or hard shifts. That is my experience and recommendation. These transmissions have a problem with the 3-5-R wave plates, over time becoming brittle through stress and failing. As a precaution, when driving on hills and on the highway, I always shift down to 5th at the bottom of the hill and back up to OD at the top. Much easier on the transmission, rather than let the engine and transmission shift under high load half way up the hill. This also wears the clutches more.
Thats not hot. You need to get the fluid over 200 degrees to remove any moisture from condensation. Any synthetic fluid should handle those temps quite well.I have noticed the non-V92 runs pretty hot... The trans will get to 200-210 and stay in that area for most of that drive