[rbarrios]

In case you plan on replacing a burned out headlight- or upgrading--- heres how....

There are a total of 4 screws to remove. A simple phillips will do.
There are 2- behind the air dam....
Here I have a screwdriver to one... the other is to the left- visible in the pic. Remove these.

Then- remove these 2 other screws in the wheel well. You may find it easier to turn the wheel INWARD so you can have better access....

You will then be able to tug the wheel well cover- giving you access to the area.

Using a flashlight- shine in to the area- looking up--- you will see the back of the headlamps. the high/low bulbs have a hard plastic screw on cover. It is labeled on the cover - OPEN CLOSE with arrows pointing in the direction you need to turn.

Take note of the covers position. when you look at it- youll see it is circular--- but distinct in shape... this will help you close the cover later-- as it has 3 taps in the inside--- 1 of the 3- is bigger than the other-- so the cover will only go on 1 way- then you can turn ot closed....
Also- take note that the cover has an O-ring-- make sure it doesnt come off. If it does put it back on....
If it falls off you will notice its missing since the cover goes back on loosely..


To remove the LOW beams--- remove cover-- reach in- and press the connector on the sides-- it comes right off... you can then turn the old bulb- and pull out. Reverse procedure. (or to put back on you may want to connect plug and then turn into place)...


High Beams- remove cover. This connector is different from the lows... turn and remove the bulb with the connector attached... once out of the headlamp- you can unclip the connector.... reverse procedure to install.

I would also recommend looking at the front of the headlamp-- look at the bulb to see how it looks before you begin the work. Just for reference.

I also apply some dielectric grease...

when you look inside after moving the wheel well-- you can see the back of the headlights--- and the back of the turn signals and the horn...

 

[09Enclave]

Nice how-to, but I think I'll let my dealer or service station deal with this headache. Why can't they be accessed from above the lamp, with the hood open? OR, they could have just put screws (perhaps with some sort of snap on cover) on the lamp assembly itself to make it easier. These Lambdas are NOT for the do-it-yourselfer, in any shape or form. From oil changes, to changing the bulbs, to changing the timing cover "gasket", etc. They are designed for the professional only to service them, unless you want to spend a lot of time doing what used to be simple repairs.

As for the headlight bulbs....they should not burn out for several years, so shouldn't be an issue.

With all the vehicles I've owned, I only remember replacing one, maybe two headlights:

1994 Cavalier: 1 headlight, 1 stoplight (3rd in the window) owned 7 years
1995 Sunfire: nothing owned 3 years
1998 Grand Am: 1 foglight owned 6 years
2001 Silverado: nothing owned 7 years
2004 Bonneville: nothing still own, 5 years+
2009 Enclave: nothing (except the whole taillight assembly on the right side needed to be replaced, do to a seal that allowed moisture in the lens) still own 1 year+

So I guess, given my track record with GM's, the lights don't burn out, hardly at all.

 

[rbarrios]

yeah, some lights seem to last forever.
On my 150,000 mile trailblazer- many bulbs are still going. except the tailights that had a TSB on them.

As for the traverse. No way youre going to access the headlights from the top.
To access 3 screws for the HEADLAMP- you have to remove part of that upper plastic cover... even loosening the screws- theres still something else holding the whole assembly. I didnt look for this piece.
Way easier to access from the wheel well.

If I were to change the bulbs on another Traverse- I think It would take me maybe 10 min per side.

Im more on the side of do it yourself. If I can do it- ill try to correct it.

 

[rbarrios]

changed lamps again.
I got the new bulbs.
Screwdriver and flashlight.
took me 12 minutes total to replace the LEFT and RIGHT low beam bulbs.

 

[Rocky]

Good grief. Something to look forward to. NOT.

 

[rbarrios]

its not difficult actually....

 

[quantum]

its not difficult actually....

But needlessly awkward.

 

[rau_d]

Wow, they sure didn't make it easy. I don't look foward to replacing one.
Thanks for the demo. :thumb:

 

[84camino]

It's a big time pain in the butt....

 

[jungle bunny]

ya sure looks like a fun job
one thing I didnt see mentioned make sure not to touch the blub with your bare fingers , oil from your skin will make the new bulerb burn out quicker than expected

wear some rubber shop gloves

 

[rbarrios]

ya sure looks like a fun job
one thing I didnt see mentioned make sure not to touch the blub with your bare fingers , oil from your skin will make the new bulerb burn out quicker than expected

wear some rubber shop gloves

Yes- very true.

 

[quantum]

Happy to report that my current set of silverstar ultra's are now 15 months old. My first set lasted 12 months almost to the day when the first on burned out.

 

[littlebadboy]

Thank you rbarrios for this thread! I needed to change my wife's headlight bulb and the only mention on the manual was to take it to Chevy service. It was a weekend and I we don't have time these coming weekdays. Should be easy but hard to do. It's hard to go under the front lower fender to remove the screws. My head couldn't fit in. After removing all the screws, it was kind of scary to pull the plastic cover to access the inside because it might break. I just looked inside the space with a flashlight, memorize the placements, and had to work out removing the bulb without looking. It could have been easier if the wheel would be taken off. Why the heck did they make it this way? Anyways, I was able to change the bulb but the wheel well cover snapped on my finger and gave me a booboo with some blood oozing. But the wife gave me a sweet hug for it, so it was worth it!

 

[rbarrios]

you can turn the wheel unward-- and then pull the wheel well liner back..
I had a long sleeve on-- and just stuck both arms in there---

 

[alacran]

Just swapped out the bulbs last night, right side went out, really impressed with results. LTZ is looking sharp now. Not sure if the 20" wheels made it harder to get the wheel well out of the way but there was no chance of getting two arms in there.

I replaced the bulb, removed, unplugged, plugged in, and installed with one hand. I will try to post pictures but i am catching up at work.

 

[jungle bunny]

I did mine last week, LTZ also, oh yes those 20 inchers make it a bigger challenge.
I took my two flashlights off , had them duct taped to the front fenders.

 

[bobg1951chevy]

Happy to report that my current set of silverstar ultra's are now 15 months old. My first set lasted 12 months almost to the day when the first on burned out.

Why do the factory bulbs last years, while the silverstar only goes for 1 year?

 

[rbarrios]

Long story short--

both factory and silverstars run at 55W I believe.
But-- the Silverstars are 'overdriven'.

I suspect the filament is a bit thinner... making it glow brighter (or engineered with a diff material that glows brighter- but shorter life)
But this thinner filament that is overdriven-- shortens its life significantly.

 

[rbarrios]

ok found it,,,
the blue glass lowers light output...

but

The Sylvania SilverStar bulbs have a very short lifetime, because the filament is overdriven to get a legal amount of light despite the blue glass.

 

[bobg1951chevy]

ok found it,,,
the blue glass lowers light output...

but

The Sylvania SilverStar bulbs have a very short lifetime, because the filament is overdriven to get a legal amount of light despite the blue glass.

Thank you, understood.