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2 Posts
I was surprissed to read they offered you $4,000 !!!

Others on here have been offered some small amounts. (I think at most 2000?)..

But you said- its at 100,000.
You bought it used.. so you wouldnt 'lose' alot like if you had bought new (you still owe on the vehicle?)

I just looked up the trade in Value for an LTZ in my area and its about $14,000 (have they made a trade in offer?)

If I was in your situation-
I would consider trading it in... and using the $4000.

And either finding a leftover 2013...
OR getting a 2014..... I would consider at most a 2LT...
But most likely a 1LT... to keep cost low.

Youd have a new- 0 miles car....
and the rest-- pay off in a few yrs.
Not so sure about getting a 2014 I have had the same exact issue with a 2013 and a friend if mine with a 2015 I have 150k miles on it though. No check engine light no codes changed all kinds of parts. Dealer suggested continue driving until the check engine light comes on. I hate that misfire feeling though and driving on pins and needles thinking it will just die. Why Chevy hasn't done some kind of fix or recall just sucks.

1 Posts
Hello all,

I have been fighting a problem with our 2009 Traverse. I have also been fighting a warranty service claim filed with GM to get them to perhaps actually try to diagnose the problem.

Two dealers have told me there is nothing they can do - no stored codes.

GM refuses to fix the vehicle and instead wants to give me a voucher for $4000 off a new vehicle.

So anyways, I have spent the last several days searching this forum and find a few people that either have this problem, or sounds extremely similar, but have not seen a resolution.

So the basics - 2009 Traverse LTZ. Bought used 20 months ago with 50k on it. Now has 100k on it. It has had this "bucking" problem since we bought it. It started out extremely rare and mild and has evolved to be pretty severe, completely predictable, and thoroughly annoying.

It originally only happened in 6th gear, but now does it in 4th, 5th, and 6th.

Basically - part throttle, light load, slight grade or hill. 45 to 60 mph Engine will start getting to wear it is working, starts to sound "different" and run a bit rougher, then it will buck or hesitate. It will not always buck or hesitate once it runs rougher, but it will ONLY do it after the load, sound, and running rougher have started.

Dealer has rebuilt transmission, put in new timing chains, other diagnostic work.

I have started data logging this truck with the torque app and during the "running rough and bucking periods" I see several very strange anomalies in the data.

It is worse with the cruise control on, and usually happens at fixed speed, or near cruising speed when speeding up.

Engine Load goes rapidly to 100% and stays there (even though speed, throttle position and grade are unchanged)
Engine load absolute goes to 109%
Throttle Position Manifold goes to 83% (which is essentially pegged) even though I have not pressed the pedal any harder
Volumetric Efficiency (Calculated) goes very high
Fuel Flow goes high, in a very non-linear relationship

In laymens terms, it seems like the fuel flow is not right (likely high) the throttle is not open, so it runs rich, rough, bucks, and is essentially trying to stall. The transmission used to almost always kick-down a gear but not anymore. It often just stays in gear - usually 6th gear.

I have my suspicions, but hoping to get some feedback from the group.

I am an engineer, been a car guy for 35 years, know almost everything there is to know about cars (except for GM die-by-wire throttles). I am good with data collection, analysis, trends, graphing. I have an AWD chassis dyno available 15 minutes from my house. I am willing to spend the cash there to make it do this and diagnose it in real time.

Any suggestions?

It is NOT the tires, engine oil level, coil packs
Has anyone answered your question? This sounds like a Bad EGR valve, had it happen to me on Honda’s, same exact scenario, it’s easy to watch it on the scanner, the other thing I have also encountered is a bad brake switch, but your cruise control should shut off if this is the case. Scan the EGR first and look at live data while driving
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