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Help! Cranks, no start, no codes

7K views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  rbarrios 
#1 ·
2010 Traverse with 100k mi. New battery, cranks strong, no previous symptoms, drove it into garage and wouldn’t start in the morning. No codes. Code reader says 60psi at fuel rail. All fuses good. Pulled a plug and it sparks during crank. Sprayed starter fluid directly into throttle body during crank and no start. Tried flooring throttle and cranking, still no start.
Any other troubleshooting suggestions?
 
#4 ·
Were the old plugs in bad shape? It is weird that it didn't give any misfire codes prior to failing to start completely. Hopefully that was the issue, but not encouraging that they would fail all of a sudden.
If you have any more trouble starting , check the under hood fuse box for loose connections.
 
#5 ·
The electrodes looked ok on the plugs. I did notice that there was oil in two of the plug wells that showed up on my socket when I removed the plugs. I thought that was odd and am not sure why or where that came from. We’ve been driving it for a couple days since I got it back together and it starts great. Now it seems to have developed a sticky Park interlock. If I press the brake pedal normally it won’t come out of park. If I press hard on the brake all the way to the floor it’ll come out and surprisingly it will come out of park without stepping on the brake at all which I know is not right.
 
#6 ·
You should hear the click of the interlock solenoid if you tap on the brake pedal, if it doesn't release until you go to the floor then it is something that should be taken care of.
I do believe that there is an emergency override to make sure you don't get stranded, check the owners manual just in case.
 
#7 ·
oil in the spark plug holes..
there was a bulletin about this.
Porosity of the heads. When they were cast.
Allowed oil to seep in.
Amount varied. If it was excessive-- it could coat entire plug- and cause misfires etc,
The fix was to replace the head(s).

But- the way I see it... if it took 100,000 miles to get that much oil in there, then changing the plugs- and waiting another 100K is the best way to go.
If along the way-- say in 20-30,000 miles it- fill up again.. then you already know how to get to plugs... and cleaning/changing plug is a cheaper fix... than it is to pay all that money to replace head etc.
 
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