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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 09 Traverse LS fwd with about 170k miles on it. The other day I was driving and noticed neither turn signal was working. So I pulled over and soon discovered that half of my electrical items aren't working. They include the turn signals (both) hazard lights, high beams, front windshield washer button, door locks on driver door (it still locks/unlocks with the fob and when I shift in and out of park), rear hatch, interior lights from the single dimmer switch and the car does not turn off when I open the door. It still powers everything down after 10 minutes. I've checked some of the fuses and they all look good. Haven't taken it to a mechanic yet but I was wondering if anyone had any idea or has seen something similar.
 

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Some folks have recently been reporting lousy fuse and relay box connections. Open the top of the underhood fuse and relay box, loosen the two bolts/screws you see there, wiggle the box down better, tighten the screws, see what happens.
 

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Someone on the Enclave forum had a no start issue. He just had a shop replace chains and 100 miles later, no start. He brought it back and the mechanic said he will put in longer bolts instead of replacing the box. I have one snug bolt and one which spins, gets tight then loose. I may try a longer bolt too, I am not having any issues.
 

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I have an 09 Traverse LS fwd with about 170k miles on it. The other day I was driving and noticed neither turn signal was working. So I pulled over and soon discovered that half of my electrical items aren't working. They include the turn signals (both) hazard lights, high beams, front windshield washer button, door locks on driver door (it still locks/unlocks with the fob and when I shift in and out of park), rear hatch, interior lights from the single dimmer switch and the car does not turn off when I open the door. It still powers everything down after 10 minutes. I've checked some of the fuses and they all look good. Haven't taken it to a mechanic yet but I was wondering if anyone had any idea or has seen something similar.
I just fixed mine today, been having the same problems for over a year all lights on dash come on radio stops working turn signals stopped working looks like I have no gas traction control stabilitrak everything in the book coming on the dash sometimes locks won't work blah blah blah... two bolts in the fuse box would tighten up somewhat and then get loose so they are stripped out in the big connectors below the fuses. so I removed the fuse box lid. The I removed the plastic fuse box (you have to pull the black part with the fuses apart from the plastic base as you put a screw driver between the plastic clips holding it together. Takes a few minutes and you'll need a flat head screwdriver. )from the plastic fuse box base plate, and put some foam underneath each of the big connectors to keep them pushed up into their connections and then popped the top half of the fuse box back down into the plastic housing. seems to be running fine now. Everyplace I went said I had a shorted wire somewhere but couldn't find it. The two bolts don't hold the fuse box in, they hold the connector on the bottom up into the connecting pins. The plastic box top comes off showing the fuses, then the plastic part with the fuses comes up from the plastic base. Hope this helps cuz it has been a nightmare for me but it's a really easy fix. I kept wondering which wire could be shorted causing all the systems to go haywire like that and it wasn't a shorted wire it was just a loose connection below the fuse box under the hood. Disconnect the battery behind the passenger seat before you start messing with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How thick of a piece of foam did you use? I also had someone say it could be the body control module. But I don't want to spend the money on it for that to not be the case. And I'm not sure if I know someone that could program it other than taking it to a dealer. Which I'm trying to avoid for obvious financial reasons.
 

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How thick of a piece of foam did you use? I also had someone say it could be the body control module. But I don't want to spend the money on it for that to not be the case. And I'm not sure if I know someone that could program it other than taking it to a dealer. Which I'm trying to avoid for obvious financial reasons.
yeah I was told a bunch of stuff I read up on every form every post every YouTube video when I went out today to get in my vehicle it wouldn't unlock after a few minutes of trying it started so I went to the box and tried to tighten the bolts and realized they are partially stripped out. So I pulled up on the fuse box trying to separate it from the base and the engine died. That's where everything connects to get power. I took some lightweight 1/8 inch foam from a tool box protector and folded it up a couple times maybe 1/2 to 3/4 thick uncompressed and put a piece under each of the big connections and clipped the fuse box back down then tightened the bolts up finger tight because they are almost totally stripped. I sent you a private message with my number
 

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Thanks for providing the solution to your problem. BCM can't be cheap.
I can be if the dealer does it. I bought mine from Rockauto for about $150. When we went to program it with my friends Snap-On diagnostic scanner we found out that the BCM wasn't the problem. I should have returned it but I didn't, it's for Auction on Ebay for $25, no takers in several cycles.:mad:
 

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yeah I was told a bunch of stuff I read up on every form every post every YouTube video when I went out today to get in my vehicle it wouldn't unlock after a few minutes of trying it started so I went to the box and tried to tighten the bolts and realized they are partially stripped out. So I pulled up on the fuse box trying to separate it from the base and the engine died. That's where everything connects to get power. I took some lightweight 1/8 inch foam from a tool box protector and folded it up a couple times maybe 1/2 to 3/4 thick uncompressed and put a piece under each of the big connections and clipped the fuse box back down then tightened the bolts up finger tight because they are almost totally stripped. I sent you a private message with my number
I'm having the same issues with the bolts being loose...do you think they are stripped? Mine don't look stripped but there's no telling...I honestly think it's a bad design and the bolts are too short therefore they barely grab
 

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It is like they tighten and get snug. Then if you keep turning it will like strip out and get loose. That is why I say to make them just snug. If I were you having problems then take it apart, make sure pins are straight and intact and snug it up.
 

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Folks, those screws are not to hold down the fuse box. Instead they pull up the connectors.
Right next to the screws, theres a little opening. As you tighten the bolt, you will see 2 little red tabs appear. Continue to screw and they get closer and closer to each other. When they touch. Thats when you stop. If you continue to turn, youll hear the pop and the screw feel loose a bit. I personally stop when the tabs make contact.
When you loosen, youll see the tabs spread apart and dissapear.
 

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I just fixed mine today, been having the same problems for over a year all lights on dash come on radio stops working turn signals stopped working looks like I have no gas traction control stabilitrak everything in the book coming on the dash sometimes locks won't work blah blah blah... two bolts in the fuse box would tighten up somewhat and then get loose so they are stripped out in the big connectors below the fuses. so I removed the fuse box lid. The I removed the plastic fuse box (you have to pull the black part with the fuses apart from the plastic base as you put a screw driver between the plastic clips holding it together. Takes a few minutes and you'll need a flat head screwdriver. )from the plastic fuse box base plate, and put some foam underneath each of the big connectors to keep them pushed up into their connections and then popped the top half of the fuse box back down into the plastic housing. seems to be running fine now. Everyplace I went said I had a shorted wire somewhere but couldn't find it. The two bolts don't hold the fuse box in, they hold the connector on the bottom up into the connecting pins. The plastic box top comes off showing the fuses, then the plastic part with the fuses comes up from the plastic base. Hope this helps cuz it has been a nightmare for me but it's a really easy fix. I kept wondering which wire could be shorted causing all the systems to go haywire like that and it wasn't a shorted wire it was just a loose connection below the fuse box under the hood. Disconnect the battery behind the passenger seat before you start messing with it
I see you were able to fix your issue. Can I ask, are you still having problems or did this actually resolve the issue. I'm having the same problems, though we have replaced several parts including the fuse box. Then realised the bolts seemed to be stripped. It was suggested to add some "spacers" under the bolts to tighten them up for better connection. This helped for a bit, but did not fix the issue. Looking for any help. Thank you!
 

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Look on you tube, several videos on how to separate the 2.
 
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