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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, we are at about 31K, and the wife says the pedal feels "squishy"..it feels fine to me, but I don't drive it every day, so I don't really have a baseline to compare to. Anyway, I really don't want to keep my kids from going to college, by paying the dealer to do my brakes :eek: , so I could use some feedback on what some of you have used, in a DIY capacity. Past topics all spoke hypothetically about ceramics, low dust, etc., but I want real world reviews. Thanks, everyone! Can't wait to hear from all of you. :thumb:
 

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Are you sure it needs pads? "Squishy" would have me look more towards the master cylinder (leaks, low on fluid, air in system, etc) instead of pads right off the bat. Have you seen or measured the pads to see how much "meat" is left?
 

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Just means there's potentially air in the brake lines - a simple bleeding of the brake lines @ each wheel will determine if there's air in the system, causing the squishy pedal.
 

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or moisture has gotten in.
 

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As the pads where the fluid will go down as the brake pistons extend out. So check and see if you need fluid.

The brakes on these need to be serviced every 6 months or they will act up. I wash, and lube them in the spring and fall.

The Traverse is big and heavy so it works the brakes well. They also seem to get dirty fast.
 

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I second the thought of the brake fluid being low.

Brake fluid takes up the place of the worn out pad, so if your pad is worn, the brake fluid should be low as well. Relatively easy to check for pad wear, with the wheels off. Just look down the opening on the top of the caliper, or the side, and you should be able to see the thickness of the pads.

If the pads do need to be replaced, I would definitely go with ceramic. I have replaced all my factory pads with ceramic, mainly because they are designed to take more heat (I drive more aggressivly than most do) and they don't dust up nearly as bad. Just make sure that you bed the ceramic pads correctly, or you'll be buying another set of pads soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the replies...I will definitely check the fluid level, and of course, I will not replace the pads if they do not appear worn, or unevenly worn. I have, in fact, been replacing/diagnosing my own brakes on many various cars for 30+ years now, so I kind of know all the other steps. Kudos, GXPWeasel, for actually sticking to the question asked. I still would like to hear from others who have used particular brands, prices, and results. Thanks! :thumb:
 

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for others info-- if you note that the fluid level has dropped some in the reservoir as the pads wear---
note that when you or a shop put in new pads-- the pistons will be pushed back in--- as this happens-- the fluid will rise in the reservoir--- and if you had added fluid-- it may leak out of the reservoir as the pistons are pushed back in.
 

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might be time to bleed the brakes and replace the old overheated fluid with new. squishy pedal can be due to old fluid or it is time to replace the fluid too.
 

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I've had good luck with the relatively inexpensive "Wearever" brand of ceramic pads from Advance Auto Parts.

You probably already know this, but be sure to check the caliper slider pins and lube them if necessary.
 

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alacran said:
might be time to bleed the brakes and replace the old overheated fluid with new. squishy pedal can be due to old fluid or it is time to replace the fluid too.
Good idea -- if you're that far into the brakes, then it's not much more effort to flush the entire system with fresh fluid.
 

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Just installed new Akebono pads and all is good. 70,000 on original pads. Thought that was exceptional for oem fronts. Still had center groove in pads but had heat cracks in the pad material. All in all happy with the new pads. One note looks like both shocks are leaking, also noted in other threads i did have engine out 35000 miles ago for timing chains. Don't know if that is the cause or just time to replace. :)
 

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I assume you mean front struts.

From what I've been seeing it sounds like they are not lasting to well,

I know they changed them to a different tpe in the 2013's
 

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Yes Big that is what i meant. I have read also on the subpar struts they are saying are used. Other than the normal issues very pleased with the 2009 traverse.
 

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Someone should write up a good "HOW TO" for brake maintenance. How to lube them properly and clean them up.
 

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I would like a recommendation for all brake replacement parts when the 2012 Traverse is used on a very dusty (summer) and muddy (winter) road. The edges of the rotors rust rather quickly too. Is there a rotor that has rust prevention and holds up to these conditions. As it is I am constantly replacing wheel hubs because the magnetic surface cant handle the conditions.
ty
 

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Winter salt is what has the biggest affect on my brake parts. I only used coated rotors, not painted, on my fleet. Coated will slow down rust but they will rust as the miles go on. But as least I can wear them out before rust related issues occur.
Mud build up means underbody flushing on a regular basis as part of condition driven maintenance.
 

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I would like a recommendation for all brake replacement parts when the 2012 Traverse is used on a very dusty (summer) and muddy (winter) road. The edges of the rotors rust rather quickly too. Is there a rotor that has rust prevention and holds up to these conditions. As it is I am constantly replacing wheel hubs because the magnetic surface cant handle the conditions.
ty
Probably as harsh conditions as any Traverse is experiencing regularly. Plus salt in the winters up there. You can certainly get coated rotors (Centric has the ones painted black where the pads don't contact, other brands have them painted silver) but the abrasives floating around won't help with longevity for sure. You could try the caliper covers to see if they help prevent some dust and mud from getting into the caliper area.
 

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I'm using Powerstop Geomet coated rotors on my Tahoe and Equinox currently. It's a coating not paint even inside the rotor vanes. Silver colored but it's not painted like black ones. Rock Auto's site gives the info on them.
OEM GM are coated also, but coating wears off pad contact surfaces on both brands but the rest of the rotor stays good for a few years in my usage.
 
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