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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just changed all rotors and pads on my 2014 Traverse. Everything went smooth, pulled out of the garage and I could hear and feel the ABS cycling. I pulled out onto the street, as soon as I started driving ABS kept trying to cycle, and then Traction Control and Stabilitrak lights came on with ABS light. Vehicle also seemed to be running in low power mode, as it was jerking and could barley make it to 40mph.

Anyone have a clue what’s going on here, and where I should start troubleshooting? All I did was change rotors, pads, and E-brake shoes. Everything came off and went on easily.


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Brake dust got on one of the ABS sensors?
I had an issue with a rear ABS sensor after I changed my pads and rotors. Ended up having to get it replaced at the shop as I didn't have all the tools handy.
Check if you can get a scanner that reads ABS codes and see if you can pinpoint if a sensor is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My scanner doesn't seem to have a dedicated ABS scan, but I can bring up the electronic brake control module. There was an error in there for Right Rear ABS Sensor. I am going to pull the wheel and brakes off to see if something got damaged when replacing the brakes. Hopefully I find something.

Can't believe all that trouble can be caused by a wheel speed sensor. What if you were on a road trip, ridiculous that the vehicle goes into limp mode over an ABS sensor.
 

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"What if you were on a road trip, ridiculous that the vehicle goes into limp mode over an ABS sensor."
Yes that would be a problem. These vehicles can get temperamental with all the sensors, computers and software. Good thing you were able to read which sensor is giving trouble, its best to keep a scanner in the vehicle at all times.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, headed back out to the garage this AM to investigate the issue. Looking at the rear of the wheel bearing hub with an inspection mirror looks like the magnetic encoder ring on the wheel bearing is broken. The ring is all nice uniform rust until you see that nice shiny metal where a piece is missing. Must have popped off with that couple of blows to get the old rotor off. Looks like I will be ordering a wheel bearing today.




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Discussion Starter #8
Installing the new hub as we speak, but I can’t find the torque specs for the hub or the axle nut. I did find specs for a terrain that was as follows:

74ft lbs Hub Bolts

151ft lbs axle nut

Anyone have an idea for the torque specs?


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Discussion Starter #10
greentraverse thanks for the info! Everything went well except the fact that the wheel hub did not want to come out easy. Didn’t have my slide hammer, so I made one. It was a bit under powered but eventually got the job done. Broke my BFH at some point in the process. Cleaned everything up installed the new hub, and an ABS sensor while I was in there.

So yes, the broken magnetic ring on my original wheel bearing was causing the ABS / Stabilitrak / Traction Control / Limp Mode problem. Still can’t believe the car acted so crazy for just an ABS issue.

Put on a few miles, and everything was good. Heres a couple pics, including the makeshift slide hammer:












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Great work on the slide hammer. I have done so many wheel bearings that I have lost count. In every case (except for a couple times where I had to repeat the job because the new bearing failed so quickly) it has been extremely difficult to free the hub. All of my vehicles have a lot of miles on them, so that is not unexpected. I have always used a puller on them, using a breaker bar on the main screw of the puller. They have always come off with patience and the puller (and maybe a BFH once or twice).
 
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