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Discussion Starter #63
Sorry for the lack of updates. This truck is got me scratching my head. Sensors seem to be working. No engine lights. Stabilitrac and traction control lights are gone. Drives fine but just won’t idle. I may have to cave and take it to a mechanic with a gm tech tool to relearn the idle and throttle

It’s not my daily driver. It’s not even a driver. It’s currently a shed for my wheels but I’d Ike to figure this one out but my lack of gm knowledge may be my downfall
 

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Sounds like a air leak. Squirt some carb cleaner all over the intake manifold and vacuum connections while it's running. If it changes anything, you just found your air leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Haven’t been able to locate the air leak. Car seems to rise in temperature rather quickly and the fans don’t activate when the gauge reaches 1/2 or even 3/4 for that matter. If the MAF sensor is unplugged the fans run constantly and even continue when the car is turned off.... odd.
What I did do finally is rent an Ozone machine from someone locally $30 for 24hrs. CD6FE540-4020-413C-9298-7FF8D921CF0A.jpeg
What I did was connect my battery charger, Turned the ignition to the ON position, Turned the front and rearventilation fan to HIGH/ Recirculation/ Mixed Vent(head and foot). Activated the Ozone machine for 120minutes last night .Shut the door. 77922CE2-590F-4F37-B6B1-399D6603FA3D.jpeg

2 hours later i returned. Held my breath. Shut off the ignition. Closed the door. Turned charger down to 2Amp to trickle over night. Woke up this morning. Opened all doors and let it air out.
Weird smell. Imagine burnt but not fire. Like burnt air or burnt oxygen. Bizzare but there is zero odor. Doesn’t smell bad. Doesn’t smell good. Just nothing. I like it.
I also ordered a drivers front knee assembly. For those that don’t know. You can buy this used at an auto wrecker. It comes with strut assembly,hub assembly with abs sensor, lower control arms and outer tie rod. I got this for $130. It is used but so is this truck. There’s something wrong in that hub/ball joint wheel bearing. I’m not sure what it is but it will be fixed
 

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I don't know the specifics of the circuit, but I'm thinking if the MAF is unplugged and the fan runs continuously, that's another indication that the MAF is bad. The open circuit is looking like a high temperature condition.
 

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I've heard that if you disconnect the MAF while running the car should turn off and if not the MAF is bad. Have you tried the throttle body spray?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
I've heard that if you disconnect the MAF while running the car should turn off and if not the MAF is bad. Have you tried the throttle body spray?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I don’t have tb spray I’ve been using brake cleaner on everything else. I do have some starter fluid. I’ll try that tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Parts are in. Time to put them in
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Let’s start with the air filter and MAF sensor. Air filter box 6x T25 screws. And lift off. Once the air filter cover was removed 2x 5.5mm and the MAF comes out.
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Lastly was the pcv valve on the rear valve cover. What a PITA. Broke a coolant hose in the process
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I also found my air leak. This2 piece intake tube design. Is this designed to not seal? I don’t see how this make an airtight intake.

Idle doesn’t hunt when the air leak is minimized but is still low and gas pedal isdefinitely not in sync. Will need to have the idle relearned 73981B8B-1894-49C7-A76A-083146A6CDC0.jpeg 59B13C7B-B1C9-435B-9D45-3E8498E9CAE0.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Also forgot to mention. The cabin filter is in. Piece of cake.
The ambient light sensor went in as well but I’m still having the same error with it. Smh
 

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Discussion Starter #75
So that coolant hose that I busted while removing the off valve on the rearward valve cover turns out to be a 3 headed monster. My jaw dropped when I went to gm today to order my 8” heater hose. No sir you have to buy all 3 , it will be $246”.

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Guess I gotta go back to the salvage yard and scavenge
 

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That's bizarre! I remember the old days when heater hoses were in reels and you cut them to length. I second your choice of returning to a salvage yard.
 

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You should be able to just replace it with regular hose pieces and use clamps. They decided to add quick connects/disconnects for who knows why.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Lots of mfgrs. use those one piece T assy's. not just GM. My old Sable's had them and they get ''fragile'' when they age. Trouble is that with molded hoses making up a copper T and using straight hoses you can't get the bends without kinking straight heater hose or avoiding other parts so no rubbing occurs.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I’ve never seen them before and had to get a knife to cut the hose to remove it from the T. I’m gonna pull one out at the wreckers in Tuesday. Maybe today I’ll tackle the suspension
 
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