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That YouTube video is intriguing, would our engines be easier than the one in the video to clean all that 'paste' off of? I don't remember too much about them, I changed the plugs when I first got the car but didn't know enough about the engine yet to think to look at the valves.
 

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I've pulled intakes off of BWM's.... the Traverse 3.6 looks WAY easier. Then you bump the motor untill the intake valves close.... give er' a good soaking, suck out the crap.... done.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
[QUOTE="AlisoBob, post: 1554

Am I correct the proper procedure to bump a motor without a bump switch as follows?

1. Connect a wire to the negative end of the starter
2. Tap the other end of the wire to the positive side of the battery
 

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I've pulled intakes off of BWM's.... the Traverse 3.6 looks WAY easier. Then you bump the motor untill the intake valves close.... give er' a good soaking, suck out the crap.... done.
Sounds like the GM Top End Service... Not everyone is capable or wants to go that far into mechanic work. I would, but a lot of 3 row family hauler owners aren't enthusiasts who like working on cars.
 

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[QUOTE="AlisoBob, post: 1554

Am I correct the proper procedure to bump a motor without a bump switch as follows?

1. Connect a wire to the negative end of the starter
2. Tap the other end of the wire to the positive side of the battery
Well if I go as far as taking off the intake I'll just pull the spark plugs and turn the engine with a socket on one of the pulleys. With no spark plugs in, no compression, the engine should spin quite easily. I don't like "bumping" engines, just a personal preference.
 
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Discussion Starter #28
Well if I go as far as taking off the intake I'll just pull the spark plugs and turn the engine with a socket on one of the pulleys. With no spark plugs in, no compression, the engine should spin quite easily. I don't like "bumping" engines, just a personal preference.
The starter is way down next to the exhaust manifold. It is PITA to get to it. Your method sounds a lot better than bumping the motor with the starter.
 

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On the Gen 2's, the F57 fuse powers the Ignition ECM. Pull it, and it will crank but not start. Handy when the Wifey is bumping the engine over, or when you stop for the night in a shitty hotel in a bad neighborhood and you want the Traverse to be there in the morning.
9492
 

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Discussion Starter #31
On the Gen 2's, the F57 fuse powers the Ignition ECM. Pull it, and it will crank but not start. Handy when the Wifey is bumping the engine over, or when you stop for the night in a shitty hotel in a bad neighborhood and you want the Traverse to be there in the morning.
View attachment 9492
I like the good old method, just switching the spark plug wires. Not with the modern vehicles thou😓
 

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I guess I can tear it down and take a look, my only worry is leaving behind any of that solution. When the guy in the video was scraping it out with a pick, it got me nervous. Granted, I glanced over the vid as I'm at work. Maybe there's something I missed, but I imagine if you're able to get a shop towel down there you could soak it all up, maybe even affix a hose to a shop vac as the gentleman that did the walnut blasting thread did.
 

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I did watch the video on the BMW but the whole "bump" procedure and the fluid getting down in there scared me. I called about 6 shops and none will do it around me. The german guy down the street didn't want to work on my car, he's booked solid with german cars for the foreseeable future. One shop wanted to use a "BG products" system to try and decarbonize. I looked at the video and it seems the same as spraying CRC cleaner into the throttle body. For $250 I'll pass. I have all the tools and patience and you guys on this thread might give the balls to try it myself on my '09. Will it be obvious when the valves are completely closed? It's the bumping and valve turning that makes me the most anxious. I like the idea of turning a pulley if y'all think that will work. AlisoBob, I'm not sure if I have a gen 2 for your windmill procedure. Maybe a dumb question but how wuould I know?
 

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Any engine will Windmill. 1. Pull the plugs. 2. Disable the ignition system. ( DO NOT just crank it with the plug wires disconnected) 3. Hit the starter. EZ-Peazy
 

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I did watch the video on the BMW but the whole "bump" procedure and the fluid getting down in there scared me. I called about 6 shops and none will do it around me. The german guy down the street didn't want to work on my car, he's booked solid with german cars for the foreseeable future. One shop wanted to use a "BG products" system to try and decarbonize. I looked at the video and it seems the same as spraying CRC cleaner into the throttle body. For $250 I'll pass. I have all the tools and patience and you guys on this thread might give the balls to try it myself on my '09. Will it be obvious when the valves are completely closed? It's the bumping and valve turning that makes me the most anxious. I like the idea of turning a pulley if y'all think that will work. AlisoBob, I'm not sure if I have a gen 2 for your windmill procedure. Maybe a dumb question but how wuould I know?
@AlisoBob has you covered for the "windmill" procedure. Pretty straightforward and unless you have a valve that is not seating at all very little should get in the cylinder and what little that does should be quite soft from the solution, so my concerns are minimal.

Regarding being anxious about making sure the valve is closed, I'm not sure the firing order and spacing on this vehicle, so I don't know how many and what cylinders are closed simultaneously. My method would be to work one cylinder at a time, have my wife turn the crank pull until I see the valves open, keep going until they shut, give it another half a turn on the crank pully or so and get to work.

If you are using the chemical method, I'd plan on an oil change within a week or so. Get all of the chemicals and what-not off of everything through normal driving, some will end up in the oil so change the oil and you are good to go.
 
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Okay, who's going to be the first one to do this?? lol
If I get the appropriate symptoms I will do it. I am not one to fix what isn't broken though, I don't really find this to be a routine maintenance type of item.
 
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If I get the appropriate symptoms I will do it. I am not one to fix what isn't broken though, I don't really find this to be a routine maintenance type of item.
I am borderline on my symptoms, I have a hesitation or a miss under low loads (for example slowly accelerating from a stop in stop and go traffic), but I also don't want to fix what isn't broken. Wish I had known enough back when I did the plugs to take a look in there.
 

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I have Duramax P/U's.... 460k+ miles combined. Intake ports run dry, like a D.I. Gasoline engine. No issues.... no worries. Never cleaned. Their probably a bit gunked up by now!
If a piece of carbon was to come loose and wedge itself under the valve and hold it open, I can see where it would trigger a CEL. Just gunk building up? Don't see it.

Wifey's Traverse is hovering right below 10k miles. Comes stock with Iridium spark plugs. Manual says to change them at 97,500 miles. I'll prolly do it at 80k. I'll inspect the intake valves then, and see if cleaning is warranted.

9494

9495
 

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I am borderline on my symptoms, I have a hesitation or a miss under low loads (for example slowly accelerating from a stop in stop and go traffic), but I also don't want to fix what isn't broken. Wish I had known enough back when I did the plugs to take a look in there.
Sounds to me like you are symptomatic. Borderline doesn't exist in my vocabulary. My CEL is not on and I have no stumbling or hesitation, so I don't see the need to fix anything. If my CEL was on with an indicative code or I had stumbling/hesitation I would look to perform the cleaning.

"Borderline" in cars often means something is wrong and it will likely get worse with inaction, costing you more time and/or money.
 
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