Traverse Forum banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of cleaning the intake valves with a bottle of CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner as preventive maintenance when I do my next oil change. The vehicle should reach around 50,000 mile by then.

The instruction video from CRC (
) recommends to spray the contents after the MAF, which is open the air filter box and insert the straw past the MAF and do short burst of the cleaner into the air intake duct.

Instead of risking contaminate the MAF, can I disconnect this hose that sits on top of the engine (pointing with a blue arrow) and administrate the cleaner from there? Most importantly, would you recommend doing that?
Inked20200409_164621_LI.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
I don't recommend this, at all.
#1. Very little of the valve gunk is doing to come off.
#2. The crap that does come off, where you you think it's going to go?
If you are not having any drivability issues, then why do this?
If you are having drivability issues, then pull the intake off, and do the job correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Wow, that is very intense. I doubt I have the ability to take off the intake manifold. The engine compartment is totally user unfriendly.I had to use a step-ladder to reach the orifice at the back.

I guess I'll just keep on trucking and deal with that when the intake valves all gunk up and throw the codes.

Agreed what would happen if spray the cleaner into the intake and the carbon soot may scratch the cylinder walls. Why people still doing it then?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
Why people still doing it then?
Sheepeople do all sorts of things. If it's running fine, leave it alone.
You need to pull the intake to swap sparkplugs at some point. You can do it then or if a shop does it, have them apply the CRC directly, as shown in the clip. They shouldn't add too much to the bill, as the intake is already off.


9432
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I rather do it myself. Last time I let the dealership replace my battery and they did not plug the battery vent hole and use a memory saver. I gave them a piece of my mind and they refunded me the labor charges. If I let them touch my engine, they may break few hoses and told me they were too old like me.

When I cross that bridge, I think I would have the courage to tackle the job. It seems pretty straight forward removing the intake. Interesting the video did not mention the torque specs for the screws and bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
Wow, that is very intense. I doubt I have the ability to take off the intake manifold. The engine compartment is totally user unfriendly.I had to use a step-ladder to reach the orifice at the back.

I guess I'll just keep on trucking and deal with that when the intake valves all gunk up and throw the codes.

Agreed what would happen if spray the cleaner into the intake and the carbon soot may scratch the cylinder walls. Why people still doing it then?
What are you talking about? The engine compartment on these cars is pretty easy to get around and not hard at all to work on. The Intake can be completely removed in less than 10 minutes and the gasket is reusable. Compared to my 1995 Trans Am and 2013 BMW X5M, this car is a breeze to work on and you can pretty much reach everything. I walnut blasted my intake valves when the car hit 100K and it took me the better part of a day. I'll agree that it wasn't the most fun job out there I've done, but it wasn't hard, I just took my time to get it done right. Now that I've cleaned the valves, I run a can of CRC thru it at each oil change to keep the buildup at bay, but I agree that if you've never done it before now it's not really going to touch the buildup on your valves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
You know, when I bought this Traverse and popped the hood I thought it was going to be miserable to work on. But the things I've done and the videos I watch for future work prove otherwise, there is more room than you'd think.

Sure, I'd like to be able to access the radiator cap and power steering without removing trim pieces. The air filter housing can be a little bit of a pain being wedged up under the trim piece. Some other small things. But I can change the oil and transmission fluid without lifting the front end and change the rear plugs without being a contortionist.

I tend to agree with the sentiment that I will deal with intake valve carbon when it becomes a problem. Mine runs great and barely uses any oil so I don't want to fix problems that don't exist.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Compared to my 1995 Trans Am and 2013 BMW X5M, this car is a breeze to work on and you can pretty much reach everything.
You need to LS swap that dang thing and then it'll be easier to work on :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Way more room in the traverse, not so with the 3.6 in a Equinox.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
You need to LS swap that dang thing and then it'll be easier to work on :)
HAHA - When the ole' LT1 kicks it one day - maybe. But she's stroked out to a 383 and a lot of fun!!! Love the sound of the ole' LT1 more than an LS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I am fighting sputtering and hesitation under load at about 1800-2000 rpm. Tried running lots of techron, new plugs and coils. Replaced the PCV valve (which was blocked) with a new one that I drilled out based on threads here. Also replaced the MAF sensor, disconnected the battery and turned on the lights overnight in hopes of completely resetting the ECM. I've been chasing this hesitation with parts and still nothing (all 4 O2 sensors, plugs, one catalytic converter, MAF sensor, PCV and the ECM, not necessarily in that order , some through the dealer/mechanics and some myself). A trusted mechanic and those on this board talk about the DI engines and the carbon build-up over time. Over the t=years the oil changes weren't synthetic and were followed by the indicator, not more frequently as people have suggested to prevent valve gunk build-up from blow-up. I do find and clean the muddy looking oil-water that gets sucked up into the intake tube before the throttle body. I do love this 2009 traverse... it's paid for and I'm hoping to get more life out of it. Before I sell or scrap it, I'd like to see if a valve cleaning with the head removed will prolong the life of the car.

Any opinions on this topic from those with experience is welcome. This board has saved me plenty over 10 years having this car and I appreciate it. If there is a better place to post this (maybe a new thread) let me know what you think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
I am fighting sputtering and hesitation under load at about 1800-2000 rpm. Tried running lots of techron, new plugs and coils. Replaced the PCV valve (which was blocked) with a new one that I drilled out based on threads here. Also replaced the MAF sensor, disconnected the battery and turned on the lights overnight in hopes of completely resetting the ECM. I've been chasing this hesitation with parts and still nothing (all 4 O2 sensors, plugs, one catalytic converter, MAF sensor, PCV and the ECM, not necessarily in that order , some through the dealer/mechanics and some myself). A trusted mechanic and those on this board talk about the DI engines and the carbon build-up over time. Over the t=years the oil changes weren't synthetic and were followed by the indicator, not more frequently as people have suggested to prevent valve gunk build-up from blow-up. I do find and clean the muddy looking oil-water that gets sucked up into the intake tube before the throttle body. I do love this 2009 traverse... it's paid for and I'm hoping to get more life out of it. Before I sell or scrap it, I'd like to see if a valve cleaning with the head removed will prolong the life of the car.

Any opinions on this topic from those with experience is welcome. This board has saved me plenty over 10 years having this car and I appreciate it. If there is a better place to post this (maybe a new thread) let me know what you think.
You only need to remove the intake to do a valve cleaning... it's honestly not a very involved process and can be done DIY if you are cautious and capable... if not I'd assume you can find a shop that can do the cleaning for less than $500, or one months payment on a new 3 row.

Do you have a check engine light, any codes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Long story. I had a bad coil a few years back and my wife drove it with the MIL blinking for a stretch. Gas dumped into the catalytic converters, fried one, probably damaged the other. I replaced one (at the dealer unfortunately) but I still get a P0420 regularly with no drive-ability issues until the recent bucking and hesitation. Now codes only throw for cylinder misfires if you let the engine stay at 1800-2000 rpm under load, like going up a hill. Cides are for specifc cylinders or the P0300 "random cylinders". Light would blink and then completely go off too sometimes! For about 6 months it would hesitate/stutter without throwing codes until now. I've read so much on this board about this and replaced so many parts I am thinking the last ditch effort is getting the tops of the valves walnut blasted. I suppose I could take the intake off myself to inspect the tops of the valves but I don't have the set up to walnut blast or otherwise clean the valves and not have gunk fall down into the ports. If this seems like the right thing to do and not terribly expensive I'd rather pay a professional. I've been calling around my area and most do not want to deal with it or just say "that's not what the do".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
Long story. I had a bad coil a few years back and my wife drove it with the MIL blinking for a stretch. Gas dumped into the catalytic converters, fried one, probably damaged the other. I replaced one (at the dealer unfortunately) but I still get a P0420 regularly with no drive-ability issues until the recent bucking and hesitation. Now codes only throw for cylinder misfires if you let the engine stay at 1800-2000 rpm under load, like going up a hill. Cides are for specifc cylinders or the P0300 "random cylinders". Light would blink and then completely go off too sometimes! For about 6 months it would hesitate/stutter without throwing codes until now. I've read so much on this board about this and replaced so many parts I am thinking the last ditch effort is getting the tops of the valves walnut blasted. I suppose I could take the intake off myself to inspect the tops of the valves but I don't have the set up to walnut blast or otherwise clean the valves and not have gunk fall down into the ports. If this seems like the right thing to do and not terribly expensive I'd rather pay a professional. I've been calling around my area and most do not want to deal with it or just say "that's not what the do".
Well you did say you used dino oil for a long time, valve deposits are certainly what I would look at as a potential issue. Check out one of the German car shops, the Germans were ahead of the game on DI and carbon buildup so a lot of them have developed that service.

Also, not that you want to do it, GM does have a top end cleaning service that uses chemicals to dissolve the carbon rather than walnut blasting. They pull the intake manifold so it is not some spray cleaner with the engine running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Thanks cinto - there is a German car shop within walking distance, so your tip helps very much. Maybe I'll be in luck! I've had such bad experiences with the dealer shops...overpriced and then I find out after that they missed something that they were supposed to do. I also feel like they just read codes and throw parts at the problem. Any idea what that top end service should cost?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
Thanks cinto - there is a German car shop within walking distance, so your tip helps very much. Maybe I'll be in luck! I've had such bad experiences with the dealer shops...overpriced and then I find out after that they missed something that they were supposed to do. I also feel like they just read codes and throw parts at the problem. Any idea what that top end service should cost?
I don't see why it would cost more than $500 but dealers have been known to charge astronomical prices for seemingly basic tasks...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
I guess nobody watched the video I attached in Post # 3 of this thread. Easy-Peasy..... No walnuts needed,
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top