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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so with information I gathered from the site I changed out my ambient temp sensor, but I’m still getting the blinking light. Is there more than one sensor?
 

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If the ambient temperature is reading correctly and it's above 50F or so, then it's not the issue and more than likely your system is low on refrigerant.
 

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Per the owners manual.

The air conditioning
system does not operate when the
outside temperature is below 4°C
(40°F). The indicator light flashes
three times and turns off when
outside conditions affect air
conditioning operation. This is
normal.

AND

The recirculation mode cannot be
used with floor, defrost, or defogging
modes. If recirculation is selected in
these modes, the indicator flashes
three times and turns off.

I believe it will also flash if there's inadequate refrigerant.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, so if the AC light is blinking 3 times it certain that my compressor is not going to run. If the compressor is not running then I am not going to get a good reading on the refrigerant level, or be able to fill the system. Anyone know the trick to get the compressor to spin? Maybe jump the relay? Would like to get this AC running before summer gets here. Oh, and thank you GM for putting the low pressure nipple in the most ridiculous place......
 

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I just returned from trip to FL where I found my 2012 AWD Traverse LT (WI) AC did not work, as the AC light would flash 3X and go out. Shop #1 could find no leak but serviced the AC loop and for $107 I had AC for a day. Shop #2 found green oil puddle and tube leak near rear evaporator location. They sent me to shop #3 with tubing rebuild capability where I was quoted $1800 for tube, compressor and condensor. Back at shop #2 they patched the hole with hose and hose clamp (only) and for $200 I got two happy weeks of service out of it. Upon return to WI (March 1) The AC light would flash 3X again. Turns out the 40 degree cutout (that I didn't know about) prevents compressor from running (as I understand it, except when defrost is selected). I assumed loss of refrigerant, but upon removing patch a lot of gas blew out of low pressure tube. I put two layers of JB Weld epoxy over the cleaned and sanded hole and replaced the hose and clamp for structural backup. I bought a gauged refill kit and 3 12 Oz. cans of 134A (reading where 30 Oz. req'd for rear AC system). I found 10 PSI in patched low pressue tube(?) and added two 12 Oz. cans to system bringing low pressure side to 48 PSI, near the 50 PSI safe limit. Engine was running, but compressor probably not engaged. AC light still flashed 3X and shut off. Today, at 44F in garage, the AC came (and stayed) on when depressed and cold air blew! Low side pressure still at 48 PSI. My takeaway from all this is that either low ambient temperature or low refrigerant pressure will cause the AC to disengage. P.S.: Epoxy patch over detected leaks may wiork. I've got 3 years and counting on a marine refrigerator patch.
 

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U didn't pull a vacuum before you charged the system?

And also, you should be able to pull the relay(to take the computer out of the system) and jumper the compressor on .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was able to get the compressor running buy jumping the 87 pin on the relay, system was low on refrigerant so I charged it accordingly. Put the AC relay back in, and the AC was running fine, garage was about 70 degrees, but when I pulled the car out the AC light started blinking again most likely due to ambient temp outside here in NY. However, I still do not get AC light to come on steady in Defrost mode, which correct me if I'm wrong, should be on in that mode. Might still have issues, going to heat the garage up today and see what happens.
 

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Again, per the owners manual:

Defrost:
This clears the windshield of
fog or frost more quickly. Air is
directed to the windshield and side
window vents, with some to the floor
vents. In this mode, outside air is
pulled inside the vehicle.
Recirculation cannot be selected
while in the defrost mode. The air
conditioning system runs
automatically in this setting, unless
the outside temperature is less than

4 °C (40 °F). Do not drive the
vehicle until all windows are clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Again, per the owners manual:

Defrost:
This clears the windshield of
fog or frost more quickly. Air is
directed to the windshield and side
window vents, with some to the floor
vents. In this mode, outside air is
pulled inside the vehicle.
Recirculation cannot be selected
while in the defrost mode. The air
conditioning system runs
automatically in this setting, unless
the outside temperature is less than

4 °C (40 °F). Do not drive the
vehicle until all windows are clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am probably going to break out the manifold gauge and see where I'm at. Those gauges on the refill cans aren't good for anything. Going to have to see if I can find the specs from the factory so I know what the recommended pressures are.
 

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SRWA has a good point about pulling a vacuum, as I understand that any moisture in the system is trouble. Greentraverse has good reference to the operating logic: is that coming from the owner's manual, or a shop manual? Thanks, Ghenkelmann
 

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Come on Green...people don't actually read the owner's manual.........do they??/?

Well, on third thought, maybe I'll take a look. Just might keep me outta so much trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well with a few days of spring weather here in NY it is obvious that the AC is not working. So looks like I will be pulling some vacuum and recharging the system. Do you guys know if the compressor will kick on by itself when I introduce refrigerant to the system, or will I still have to jump the AC relay to kick the compressor on manually?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I did not have to jump the relay. When I used the bottle to refill it must have been sufficient to satisfy the low pressure cutout, because eventually the compressor kicked on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did not have to jump the relay. When I used the bottle to refill it must have been sufficient to satisfy the low pressure cutout, because eventually the compressor kicked on.
My first attempt was the bottle to refill, but the compressor would not kick on, so I jumped the relay. That did not get my AC working again, so a more in depth attempt will be made this week. Going to pull out the manifold gauges and vacuum pump, reclaim what’s in there, make sure there is no leaks and then recharge it with the vacuum pulled.


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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, found the leak, and its a pin hole on the A/C line that runs to the rear. Its right at the bend in the rear of the vehicle before the line turns upward. Being that it is at the bend is going to be an issue for the standard cut and compression fiction fix. I don't see myself changing out the whole line itself, maybe an alternate patch or fix that can hold up for now, brazing the line?

Any ideas?
 

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Ok, found the leak, and its a pin hole on the A/C line that runs to the rear. Its right at the bend in the rear of the vehicle before the line turns upward. Being that it is at the bend is going to be an issue for the standard cut and compression fiction fix. I don't see myself changing out the whole line itself, maybe an alternate patch or fix that can hold up for now, brazing the line?

Any ideas?
Read this thread. Supposedly the line is not repairable.

 
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