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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First the engine runs erratic, the right radiator fan comes on,backfires, engine dies after a few minutes, and last but not least, 15 codes are set.


The little throttle body computer really gets screwed up. Don't know if it's "to rich,to lean, to much air,to little air,etc., etc."



Why oh Why would anyone pull the hose off the pcv valve and start the engine someone screams?


Doing routine mantenance , after 6 to 7 hours, using almost every tool I own and could borrow, the stupid valve is still in the hole, correction, the bottom half is still in the hole, correction, half of the bottom half is still in the hole. Will not budge. Used vise grips, channel locks, regular pliers, 17 in. pry tool, 4 foot crow bar, screwed a self tapping bolt down in the hole in the brass ring in the middle of the valve and froze it with R12 and tried to pry it out...........ITS STILL IN THERE.


Temporary solution,plugged the hole in the broken valve, put a new valve,Standard part# V518, in the hose, zip tied the pcv valve hose to some hose running along side it, and cleared the codes.



Runs like a brand new one.



Will take it down to Ernie's Tire & Auto in the morning, put it on a lift and do a number on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
"An easy out"?........Good thought;



In the middle of the valve there is a "brass ring" with a hole that appears about the size of the hole in the top of the valve, could be a "touch" bigger.



Problem, the little "ring" broke loose & just spins inside the valve.
 

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What a mess... this is why I haven't touched my PCV valve yet, on a 100,000 mile vehicle little 30 minute checks can become expensive, weekend long ordeals.

Since I got my Traverse I have been keeping an eye on the oil level. I'm at 60% remaining and my oil level is still at the max line, so hopefully there are no PCV issues currently. I may start giving the PCV a blast of PB blaster or the like at each oil change to try and prevent the seizing you are experiencing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Been all over the net, U tube, etc.


Nobody has had a seized valve..............Why Me??


Answer............Why Knot.


But, that thing is coming outta there even if I gotta put a torch on it........and I gotta half a mind to do it.


The BW...IE: Beautiful Wife agrees.........I gotta half a mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Am sure U saw the difference between the OE valve & the auto part valve. So, that tells me that quite a bit of the bottom half of the valve is still in the hole.


Have used every tool I have ,almost, and it wont even turn, the small upper half is twisted off and the bottom part sticking out is all twisted up. Will show pictures....if I can.


Also, have WD 40ed it, froze it,etc. Wont budge.


Gonna get a hammer & cold chisel.......it's coming out, one way or another.


And also, the new valve is gonna have about 5 pounds of anti seize grease on it.


Why did GM do this???...(A rhetorical question) First GM I've had in 30 years.........most probably the last.
 

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youre saying yours is like this?


this would be Jocon 60s pic.



 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't know. One on the left looks like the Standard V518 valve.


Trying to post pictures..having problems.
 

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...Gonna get a hammer & cold chisel.......it's coming out, one way or another....

Seriously,,don't waste your time since the PCV is broken. You CAN'T buy just the OE PCV valve from the dealership, there isn't even a part number for it. You need to purchase the ENTIRE valve cover which has the PCV pre-installed (~$200)




... And also, the new valve is gonna have about 5 pounds of anti seize grease on it....

The V518 aftermarket PCV won't fit in the valve cover, it's too big. I guess you should take a hammer and dent the #518, but then you just wind up with air leaks and rough idle.
 

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Seriously,,don't waste your time since the PCV is broken. You CAN'T buy just the OE PCV valve from the dealership, there isn't even a part number for it. You need to purchase the ENTIRE valve cover which has the PCV pre-installed (~$200)







The V518 aftermarket PCV won't fit in the valve cover, it's too big. I guess you should take a hammer and dent the #518, but then you just wind up with air leaks and rough idle.
That's why they make junk yards! :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Measured the Standard V518 valve & the stuck valve at the hole...........both exactly 12 mm.


After mucho consideration & consternation, decided to leave well enuf alone.


Engine running very well.


Do appreciate all the advice & help.


Have been cleaning & or changing pcv valves since the early 70s when they first appeared. If memory serves, my old 70 Pontiac Catalina with a 400 cu.in. had one, but thats been awhile back.


Ah yes, junk yards.its been many,many, Moons since I've been in one, but have been in plenty. The first one was back in 1955 , the year I graduated from high school, looking for parts for my first car, a black 1939 Packard with "suicide doors" , and a straight 6. Pistons that looked like dinner plates. Weighed about 8 tons, solid steel, no emission controls, no power steering, no power brakes,no power windows,no power door locks.


YES ,"the good ole days". Glad their gone.


Keep up the good work.
 

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Have been cleaning & or changing pcv valves since the early 70s when they first appeared. If memory serves, my old 70 Pontiac Catalina with a 400 cu.in. had one, but thats been awhile back.
At some point in the early 60's GM switched most V8's from a road draft setup to the PCV setup. On my '61 Impala I just stuck breathers in each valve cover and it would idle so poorly and have no power off idle, after doing research I decided to put the PCV back on and it fixed all of the problems I was having. I'm a firm believer that all engines should have a PCV setup, I will be adding one to my 348 W motor's valve cover when I rebuild it.
 

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Is the stock takeoff even a PCV valve or just a controlled orifice? Doens't look like there is enough space in that small body for a spring loaded weight to close on deceleration and two holes instead of one large hole for the spring valve to fit in close seems to confirm it is a controlled orifice governed by the size of the holes rather than a valve. That type of setup is used on some GM V8s and some even use it simply as a takeoff and the valve is on the other end of the hose on the engine body.


Without a spring loaded method to close off the vent holes it is not a PCV valve or the area of the holes is what governs the amout of crankcase gases vented and uncloging of the holes is all that is necessary to restore operation.......probably why there is no replaceable PCV valve and the insert is a one piece with the valve cover.
 

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It's just an orifice but everyone on this site calls it a PCV valve, easier to go along with it then fight it.

Based on the pictures I've seen floating around they do get pretty gunked up, so I'd say that they definitely need cleaning. Apparently the early 1st gens had smaller holes that were more prone to clogging and didn't slow down the air enough to let the particulates settle out, the later gen 1 models had larger holes.
 

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junk yards.... for some years now-- its like some folks have deals with the yunkyard folks..
notify me when XYZ shows up.
Cause the day after something shows ups-- its stripped.
the parts end up on ebay-

Like 60-70s Fords and GMs.


If I remember correctly

I went to a yard- and they brought out a Maverick...
Right away some guys where there- they began to remove the brakes/rotors.
he said Mustang folks like these because they are disc brakes.


I was looking for Chevelle/Monte Carlo.
They were totally stripped of usable parts.
 

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It's just an orifice but everyone on this site calls it a PCV valve, easier to go along with it then fight it.

Based on the pictures I've seen floating around they do get pretty gunked up, so I'd say that they definitely need cleaning. Apparently the early 1st gens had smaller holes that were more prone to clogging and didn't slow down the air enough to let the particulates settle out, the later gen 1 models had larger holes.

Seems like pulling the hose and giving it a shot of Gumout every 5K or so would keep it from clogging or soften it up.....could even straighten out a large paperclip and poke the holes clean.
 

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I used this body clip tool to pry it out by pushing it underneath the lip of the valve. It didn't take but two/three minutes to remove; mine's a 2012 and it didn't have any red sealant on it.

Gathering from the discussion though, the 2015 must have a very different design?





 

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With the PCV system opened from the break you're pulling in unmetered air through the intake manifold - that is why the car was running extremely poor. Basically a massive vacuum leak.

Actually I suspect it might've run a little better in that state by disconnecting the MAF - which will force the computer to run in speed density mode. Still won't run ideal though.
 
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