Has anyone added a amp to the stock 1LT stereo? How did you hook it up? Where can I find a schematic diagram for this stereo.
Just got my 2010 Traverse I week now, just loving it I can do with a little more power
click on member BigBlueTraverse to follow his upgrades. there is also an excellent thread of a member who did a step by step, with pics, install of third row speakers by tapping into stock wiring harness...really clean. i'll send you the link if/when i find it myself. i'm still waiting for BigBlue's amp results, as i am in the same boat as both of you...had my new 2010 for about 6 weeks, love the car, stock non-Bose radio system kind of sucks...good luck, and welcome to the forum!!!
I already have a blue tooth Parrot MKi9100 with a Quick Connect Products QCGM-3MK Plug and Play Harness. I cut into the wires in this harness as to keep the bluetooth functional as well. I soldered my Line level inputs into 4 ten foot two pair speaker wires and connected it the the connector that comes with the amp.
Then I also soldered 4 the foot x2 wire return lines from the amp right back to the Quick Connect Products QCGM-3MK Plug and Play Harness. This hooked the OEM speaker lines back up to the amp.
This amp is only running 60W out per channel so the factory wiring is fine.
I then taped it all up into on cable run and ran it back to the amp.
Now to make your life easy pull the front passenger seat out. Two bolts from the back unplug the wires and just tip it forward.
There is no bolts on the front of the seat it hooks in. So tip it forward and bull the base back. Took two minutes to pull it out. Leave the seat belt on just put the seat outside by the door.
I also pulled the side of the center console out. It just held on with those pop pins. So it pulls right off.
I also know why the floors is so soft now there is an inch and a half of foam under the carpets.
Speaker level inputs.. Now lets say this the amp will also boost the turn signal volume. I actually had to cut my A channel back to quite down the turn signal..
Also the security system is linked to the stereo in some way as every time the doors unlock or lock the amp will pop on for like 10 seconds then go off. It's this or the speaker level on of is real sensitive.
But this is no issue as the amp is no on long enough to drain any real power.
Here are pictures of it mounted in the floor under the seat. I cut into the carpet and removed the foam this sits the amp down nice and low and on the cool floor.
Now this amp is fan cooled and really doesn't get that hot so placing it here is ok. A bigger hotter amp I wouldn't do this or put the floor mat edge on it.
I also have older teen kids so when I say don't step in the amp they will listen. The amp sits all the way under the seat. The carpets back there just tuck way under the seat. I may mount a square chunk if diamond plate over it since it sits so low now.
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray Black
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green Black
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Purple
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Purple Black
Hey BigBlue and Staciesbaby, I just verified that I don,t have a amp in my Travy. I have some qeustions, should I use the front or rear speaker wires to get my signal to the amp. If Im not mistaken I read that the the bluetooth or Onstar come from the front speakers? I dont want to lose these functions and also What about the signal indicator being amplified. what do you guys suggest. Are RCAS on the QCGM-3MK Amp outputs
The onstar , XM and turn signals all route through the factory head unit. So it all become amplified. In actuality even when the factory head unit is off the Onstar will still pass right through the factory head unit. How do I know? if you unplug the factory head unit no Onstar audio or turn signals.
Now it comes down to how much power you want. I only installed a small 750 Watt aka 600 Watt usable. I'm configured to run only 60 W per channel using the line inputs with this amp. So as for the turn signal it's just a matter of setting the input sensitivity so the turn signal is not annoying loud. I'm also able to go right back into the factory wires to the speakers.
Playing with it I've found a nice balance front and rear and the turn signal is not to bad.
Now I had the advantage of cutting into the speaker wires in an aftermarket harness I bought to add my bluetooth. I could remove the whole setup and not one factory wire is cut.
If you want to go with a big amp I would suggest ditching the factory head unit and buying the adapeter that will split the onstar and turn signals off the head unit.
The factory radio has no RCA's.
I also chose this amp as it needs no turn on wire as it auto senses the input signal coming from the speaker wires so it will even turn on if I just hit the onstar button or use the bluetooth even with the radio off.