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I've got the same complaint as most do on the LS base sound system, "It sucks!" 2 tweeters, 2 fronts and 2 rears is still not enough to be heard in the third row. My wife and I rarely turn the volume past half so my son in the third row can't hear any music unless we turn it up. I read a post on another forum were a member had Kenwood KFC-1062s 3 way 4" speakers added to the third row, so I decided I'd do the same (for reference the third row OEM speakers are 3.5", get 3.5" speakers if you do not want to modify the opening). I purchased the same speakers off eBay for $34.00 with free shipping. I also had to pick up connectors and speaker wire, which were an additional $16.00. I also had to order the speaker grills from gmpartsdirect.com, that totaled $30.94 (Dealers ranged from $33.00-$90.00). This became an $80.94 project.

Before I started I researched if I could simply install these speakers and tap into the 2nd row speakers to get sound without adding an amp. I was never in to audio as a teenager, but more in to speed. I can install anything from a turbo kit to a body kit, but when it came to audio, no way. I learned enough about Ohm and Impedance to get through this. You can do your research; as I was only able to read it once over to only understand it one time for this install. Research and a short online chat with a Crutchfield rep concluded to wire this up in a series instead of a parallel hook up. Wiring up as a series is safer for the factory head unit, but comes with volume loss (at the end there was no volume loss). I also looked up the factory wiring diagrams so I would know what wires to cut in to.




Tools Used: Wire hanger, Interior panel tools, Dremel w/cutting wheel and round sanding bit, Utility knife, Drill, Wire strippers, Blue tape and Electrical tape.

Tools not shown: My hands.

Removing the lower pillar panel between the passenger front and rear is easy, the plastic has a lot of flex to it. First start at the passenger door facing in looking down lift the right side toe kick using your hands where it meets the lower pillar on the left. Second go to the passenger rear door facing in looking down and remove the center toe kick by starting at the left lifting with your hand. Work your way to the front. Once removed go to the top where the lower pillar meets the upper pillar. Pull out the lower pillar using your hand and work your way to the front there are 3 clips holding this in. Finally when it is separated work your way down to the floor on both sides.




With the lower pillar removed I located the interior wire harness and separated the speaker wires. Dark Blue is + and Light Blue is - (I actually pulled the door panel and factory speaker to verify the information I got from the web). Remove the exterior harness by pulling the lever all the way down. Remove the interior harness by pushing a silver clip down on the exterior side with your finger and the interior harness will drop out.



Time to install the passenger side 3rd row speaker. Starting at the top right corner I pushed in a bit on the quarter panel and inserted the interior panel tool to pry out the speaker plug. Luckily where I started there was a groove for prying out.



Push the wire harness down so that it is out of the way. I then marked what plastic needed to be removed by placing the speaker in to the opening and tracing the outside. Lay down some blue tape around the work area. I used a Dremel cutting blade, then a round sanding bit to clean up the cut. Be careful not to cut the harness or sand. If I'd of known better I would of ordered 3.5" speakers.



Standing at the passenger rear door facing in looking back, pull the lower quarter panel out with your hands. Straighten out a wire hanger and feed it towards the passenger 3rd row speaker opening. Blue tape on some speaker wire on to the wire hanger at the speaker opening end, then pull the hanger through at the door end. Run the wire to the interior harness plug, making sure you have enough wire at both ends.




At the bottom is a wire diagram I made showing the connections. I wired up the speaker and secured it to the panel. Pre-drill holes before using screws to secure.



Make your connections at the pillar side. Wire diagram is at the bottom. Once the connections were made I tested for sound. Everything was okay. Clean up your wiring and replace all panels. Start the driver's side.



Driver's side is done like the passenger side. There is no harness to worry about in the speaker opening and Dark Brown is your +, Yellow is your -.





Series wired diagram.



This upgrade made a huge difference at both the low and high end spectrum of volume. I notice no volume loss. I sat in the middle before the install and it sounded blah, the rear was even more blah, now I want to drive from the middle. I guess it added some range, more importantly my son is happy he has sound. I spent just under 2 hours on the project. We've now got a 2010 Traverse LS w/8spkr sound system.
 

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hmmmm, very interesting...
I know a few people were wondering about this!
thanks for the write up.
 

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Thanks for the great write-up. We always have one daughter in the 3rd row, usually my oldest and she always has her ipod on because theres no sound back there. Thanks again, I'll be doing this in the future.
 

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finishing up this mod... have to clean up...
went well.
 

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Ok- got this done. Thanks to the Original poster.
I took pics of stuff he mentions-- but no pics.
This should make it even easier for anyone else doing this. I actually did this with a light rain and with nightfall. Few lamps and flashlight.


Speakers- $35.95 on ebay.
Speaker grille- $17.36 dealer.
Speaker wire- free. I had a brand new pair- from another speaker install-- many years ago.


Speaker covers as received.


speaker backside and the wires I had.



To remove the solid covers--- you can use a metal spatula.
Use the new speaker grille to give you an idea of where the tabs are- Once you undo 2- you can carefully pull on the cover.





to remove the center pillar trim--- grab from here... and gently pull. The following 2 pics show where the connectors are-- this will give you an good idea of approx where to pull






the panel thats by the 3rd row...
grab from here- and gently pull--- shown is the clip that holds the panel in place.
You dont have to pull this one too far.



the small sill plate-- you can pull up on one side gently-- 1 side has a clip- the other side slides into that plastic piece.



THe good thing is I didnt have to use a wire hanger to run the speaker wire.
I inserted the wire thru the speaker hole-- and then moved the panel a little- I was able to slide my hand in and grab the speaker wire.
I then ran it along the bottom.






Before I had started it all- I had mounted the speakers and screwed in the screws. Pre mount essentially.
****** I did NOT have to shave down/dremel the plastic like the original poster did. I simply screwed in place as shown in pics.
I also only used 3 screws. Straight into the plastic.




to easily access the speaker wires in the wiring harness...

in the door jamb-- pull down the handle- this will release the connector.





THen use your finger to gently push on this little spring tab- this allows the connector to be released- and pulled in.





You can then undo the tape to access the light blue wire. (same for the opposire side- the yellow wire)




I made the wire connections following his schematic.
I personally soldered the connections and then wrapped with electrical tape.
I tested the speaker- by turning on radio and selecting Balance to RIGHT-- and fader to REAR.
I could easily hear the rear door speaker and the new 3rd row speaker.


Its the same process for the other side.
Putting panels back on is the reverse process.
As is hooking up the door jamb plug.

THe speaker grilles.
You have to remove 1 tab. Since the speaker blocks its slot. I used a knife and slit it off.







To make the grille sit flush I initially shaved off some plastic with a knife- as shown.
I ended up shaving plastic off that was hitting the speakers metal frame.
This was easier than shaving away with a dremel.





 

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Thanks for the pics and info! One question though..Do you have a gap between the speaker frame and the panel? If so that is going to kill the sound from those speakers. I am thinking that's why the OP had to shave down the panel. A good seal at the mounting location is worth the results. You could use the foam tape or similar if you need to. Note: do NOT sue silicone caulking as it can eat the surround of teh speaker cone.
 

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yes- there is a gap.
I guess one of these days I may try to put in some foam.
 

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rbarrios,
do you have the part numbers for the grills? I just got mine today and they are the wong ones (no grill, just cover plate). I am going to contact the seller tomorrow and it would help to have the part number.

Thanks
 

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im pretty sure I used the following..
the same ones that ROBS used on his setup.

part numbers for my (ebony) speaker grilles were 25865669 and 25877146
 

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boxes were still in the trash...

 

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Just ordered the Kenwood speakers off of ebay ($36). Now to go to the dealership and order the grilles. I wonder how much they cost in Canada?!
 

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RCPILOT82 said:
Thanks for the pics and info! One question though..Do you have a gap between the speaker frame and the panel? If so that is going to kill the sound from those speakers. I am thinking that's why the OP had to shave down the panel. A good seal at the mounting location is worth the results. You could use the foam tape or similar if you need to. Note: do NOT sue silicone caulking as it can eat the surround of teh speaker cone.
I ended up buying a strip of foam at home depot.
(foam that is placed between spots where cement is poured).
I cut pieces and placed them between the speaker and plastic mounting of the traverse.
 

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Just ordered the speaker grilles from the dealership. First dealer wanted $25 each, went to my local dealership and they were $18 each. Now to wait for the speakers and grilles to come in!
 

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Just completed this mod today. Didn't bother to take any pictures, as this thread is pretty detailed already. The speakers work great!

I ordered the speakers off of Ebay and got them shipped to a USA address close to the border. The seller wanted $65 to ship to Canada, but free shipping within the USA. There are a number of companies on the USA side of the border that accept shipments for Canadians for a minimal fee (usually around $5). Then you just swing by and pick up the item at your earliest convenience.

Install went really well and was very easy. Hopefully the wire doesn't rattle anywhere behind the panels!
 

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Ive heard no rattling from mine.

Very interesting about the CO's that do that shipping/accepting of....
 

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Want to add third row speakers to my 2012 traverse and want to be sure of the color wiring running to the rear door speakers. Would I still be looking for the blue/light blue and brown/yellow on the 2012? I could just pull off the rear door panels but I'm afraid of busting something. Tips on how to remove it would be helpful. Thanks for any response.

Tom
 

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the rear door panel do not come off---
you access the wire by removing the plastic shield-- thats between the front and rear doors..... where the seatbelt mechanism is....
the center pillar...

The pics above show it///
 

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I'm thinking of doing this too, but does anyone know if this mod would void any warranty?
 
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