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Hey all, new here. Asking to see what I need to do for a tranny fluid service. People have been saying about 5 quarts drains out of a drain and fill. Should I order 6? Also, anything on the filter, should it be changed at 30k as well or is it not necessary until later? My grandparents had an '18 with the 9-speed and it went to 80k miles on the same fluid without being changed and it started to slip and shudder. Trying not to make the same mistake.
 

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Hey all, new here. Asking to see what I need to do for a tranny fluid service. People have been saying about 5 quarts drains out of a drain and fill. Should I order 6? Also, anything on the filter, should it be changed at 30k as well or is it not necessary until later? My grandparents had an '18 with the 9-speed and it went to 80k miles on the same fluid without being changed and it started to slip and shudder. Trying not to make the same mistake.
I did mine at 35k and it came out VERY dark, with an odor (see pic below). Not burnt, but it smelled awful. I ordered 12 quart case of AC Delco Dexron VI Synthetic, AC Delco part number 10-9243 from Rock Auto for just under $100. Did a drain and refill (about 6 quarts came out), drove it around 10 miles to get the fluid circulated and up to temp, then did another drain and refill. The link in marvin02's post is an excellent procedure by Alisobob on how to do a fluid change on these. A word of caution: These Traverses shut themselves off after about 10 minutes of idling. If you have the level plug out of the transmission and the engine shuts off, tranny fluid will come belching out. It is best to shut the engine off, then restart it before you remove the level plug to correct the fluid level. This is a very easy job. Also, I did not replace the filter but I did install a magnetic drain plug (Info also below).
HTH,

Jack

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Fluid Ingredient Dish Cuisine Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did mine at 35k and it came out VERY dark, with an odor (see pic below). Not burnt, but it smelled awful. I ordered 12 quart case of AC Delco Dexron VI Synthetic, AC Delco part number 10-9243 from Rock Auto for just under $100. Did a drain and refill (about 6 quarts came out), drove it around 10 miles to get the fluid circulated and up to temp, then did another drain and refill. The link in marvin02's post is an excellent procedure by Alisobob on how to do a fluid change on these. A word of caution: These Traverses shut themselves off after about 10 minutes of idling. If you have the level plug out of the transmission and the engine shuts off, tranny fluid will come belching out. It is best to shut the engine off, then restart it before you remove the level plug to correct the fluid level. This is a very easy job. Also, I did not replace the filter but I did install a magnetic drain plug (Info also below).
HTH,

Jack

View attachment 11897 View attachment 11899
Thanks for the useful info, did you use any tape or seals in the new drain plug or have any issues with leaking?
 

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Although the specific material information is not provided on the vendor's site, they do offer this precaution:

"Check your application for usage. Drain plug may differ from the factory OEM drain plug. Install plug at your discretion."

I would assume that the material used is a 305/309 SS (typical of generic SS fasteners) and the aluminum transmission case casting is silicon-aluminum (A35x, or possibly A360/380/390) so galvanic action may be a concern. I would at least apply a PTFE tape or paste to help lubricate that thread (for removal as well as installation) as much as to seal it.

Some of the older NV/NPG transfer cases used a magnesium housing and the drain and fill plugs could be notoriously seized in place after several years. GM issued a TSB for plugs in those defining the proper plug metallurgy. I've also experienced this in other applications, such as 410, rare earth magnets, and castings.

Hood Liquid Fluid Automotive lighting Automotive tire
 

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I looked at that link previously, and only mention of material I could find there was "real quality stainless steel" but no material/alloy specification. I transitioned to naval bronze with a neodymium (coincidentally, an invention of GM) insert for that application example above with no problems since. People frown a bit when their submerged planetary reducer can no longer handle the 1,100 ft/lb load because water has entered the oil chamber. I found that the galvanic action between three different metals usually takes the most reactive one first (stainless) if there is nothing to prevent it.

It's not that the trans case will be submerged (or at least not permanently), but there is water spray and in other driveline components (the aforementioned transfer case example) galvanic action can still occur.
 

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Although the specific material information is not provided on the vendor's site, they do offer this precaution:

"Check your application for usage. Drain plug may differ from the factory OEM drain plug. Install plug at your discretion."

I would assume that the material used is a 305/309 SS (typical of generic SS fasteners) and the aluminum transmission case casting is silicon-aluminum (A35x, or possibly A360/380/390) so galvanic action may be a concern. I would at least apply a PTFE tape or paste to help lubricate that thread (for removal as well as installation) as much as to seal it.

Some of the older NV/NPG transfer cases used a magnesium housing and the drain and fill plugs could be notoriously seized in place after several years. GM issued a TSB for plugs in those defining the proper plug metallurgy. I've also experienced this in other applications, such as 410, rare earth magnets, and castings.

View attachment 11900
OK? Not sure what you are getting it... BTW, what is that a picture of?
 

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I guess my point was that they will sell you a plug, but are not taking any responsibility for suitability for a specific purpose, no liability in case the magnet ends up in a gear tooth, etc. I suspect it would be safe if some protection is applied to prevent galvanic corrosion and the magnet is secured in place.

The photo is a submersible planetary gear drive for a proprietary piece of equipment. I suppose a little imagination regarding what could possibly run under water and need over 1,000 ft/lb of torque through it (24/7/365) might lead someone to the specific application, but it's not a subject for general discussion. However, I CAN tell you that it's not a torpedo, since no one would probably care about servicing it after is had been submerged once.

Your information regarding the thread size was invaluable. I am considering having some bronzed pieces made up with our "standard" magnet installed in them because I know they are bullet-proof and won't erode an aluminum case. Actually, I am thinking of using both of the drain and fill holes and installing a borosilicate sight glass, since Hydramatic decided that we no longer need a dipstick. If it works out I might be posting information about the parts and materials used.
 

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I guess my point was that they will sell you a plug, but are not taking any responsibility for suitability for a specific purpose, no liability in case the magnet ends up in a gear tooth, etc. I suspect it would be safe if some protection is applied to prevent galvanic corrosion and the magnet is secured in place.

The photo is a submersible planetary gear drive for a proprietary piece of equipment. I suppose a little imagination regarding what could possibly run under water and need over 1,000 ft/lb of torque through it (24/7/365) might lead someone to the specific application, but it's not a subject for general discussion. However, I CAN tell you that it's not a torpedo, since no one would probably care about servicing it after is had been submerged once.

Your information regarding the thread size was invaluable. I am considering having some bronzed pieces made up with our "standard" magnet installed in them because I know they are bullet-proof and won't erode an aluminum case. Actually, I am thinking of using both of the drain and fill holes and installing a borosilicate sight glass, since Hydramatic decided that we no longer need a dipstick. If it works out I might be posting information about the parts and materials used.
Yeah, I knew that!! LOL!
 
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