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2020 Traverse sub install base model

29K views 36 replies 15 participants last post by  Rjgonzales85  
#1 ·
I haven't seen much on adding a sub to a 2020 Traverse so let me provide what I can. First off this project sucked so much! I've installed subs before but never in a new car. Anyways at this current time there is no aftermarket radio or amp pro for a pre amp signal ( that i can find) so I went with a Audio control LC2i. I did find that Axxess makes a harness for other Chevy vehicles that I used to create a T harness so that I didn't have to tap into any existing speaker wires. (Axxess AXEXH-GMLN31) this is a 48in harness extension used for a data interface for newer Chevy cars but Traverse isn't listed I took a chance on the harness and it paid off. So I got the harness and began cutting I spliced into the front 2 speakers and added about 10ft of wire from the front right and left positive and negative. I took out the radio and connected to the harness. To get the radio out it's just clips get a panel tool and pry up carefully or just pull the entire bezel including vents will pop out. I ran the wire through the dash and down the driver side under the panels and carpet. If you decide to just tap the speakers it's the yellow and yellow black for driver side and the blue and blue black for passenger (this will be on the grey plug) If you get the harness its normal colors, white and grey (also on the grey plug..obviously). At this point I had my 2 speakers that I would use to create the signal for the LC2i I did not get a remote wire I opted to use the GTO feature of the LC2i and it works perfectly. Next I ran a power cable on the driver side under the panels and I went through the firewall at the same spot as the factory harness I drilled through the groument and pulled the cable through and sealed it with black rubber sealant. I took out the first row back seat the long side and mounted the amp under the seat I used the seat belt bolt as the ground for the LC2i and amp. I unbolted it cleaned the surface with a wire brush and screwed it back down. I added a piece of 12 gauge wire to the end of the power cable in the reducer to run from my amp to the LC2i. I then ran a cable from the remote out of the LC2i to the amp. At this point I had all my connections. 2 speakers, power and ground for both devices and remote turn on. I mounted everything to a piece of 1/8 inch abs and I cut a u shaped slot in the carpet to run the wires through and some zip ties. I had to order some wire reducers because I ran 0 gauge wire and the amp only uses 4 gauge. I did this cause I may upgrade later. After install you'll need to disable the ANC mics by unplugging all 4 in the headliner. I searched online all over and I couldn't find where the module is. Trust me it's not the same as the 2019 I checked under the dash. Take out the headliner handles and pull down slightly, reach in there and unplug them. All 4 will need to be unplugged above each seat. I used a flat head to pull the red clips I'll post pics of the ANC mics. This doesnt bother the Bluetooth mic that is in the console where the lights are by the mirror. I personally haven't noticed a difference on the freeway since disabling ANC specially since I have some bass to drown it out 🤘. More pics coming
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#5 ·
I haven't seen much on adding a sub to a 2020 Traverse so let me provide what I can. First off this project sucked so much! I've installed subs before but never in a new car. Anyways at this current time there is no aftermarket radio or amp pro for a pre amp signal ( that i can find) so I went with a Audio control LC2i. I did find that Axxess makes a harness for other Chevy vehicles that I used to create a T harness so that I didn't have to tap into any existing speaker wires. (Axxess AXEXH-GMLN31) this is a 48in harness extension used for a data interface for newer Chevy cars but Traverse isn't listed I took a chance on the harness and it paid off. So I got the harness and began cutting I spliced into the front 2 speakers and added about 10ft of wire from the front right and left positive and negative. I took out the radio and connected to the harness. To get the radio out it's just clips get a panel tool and pry up carefully or just pull the entire bezel including vents will pop out. I ran the wire through the dash and down the driver side under the panels and carpet. If you decide to just tap the speakers it's the yellow and yellow black for driver side and the blue and blue black for passenger (this will be on the grey plug) If you get the harness its normal colors, white and grey (also on the grey plug..obviously). At this point I had my 2 speakers that I would use to create the signal for the LC2i I did not get a remote wire I opted to use the GTO feature of the LC2i and it works perfectly. Next I ran a power cable on the driver side under the panels and I went through the firewall at the same spot as the factory harness I drilled through the groument and pulled the cable through and sealed it with black rubber sealant. I took out the first row back seat the long side and mounted the amp under the seat I used the seat belt bolt as the ground for the LC2i and amp. I unbolted it cleaned the surface with a wire brush and screwed it back down. I added a piece of 12 gauge wire to the end of the power cable in the reducer to run from my amp to the LC2i. I then ran a cable from the remote out of the LC2i to the amp. At this point I had all my connections. 2 speakers, power and ground for both devices and remote turn on. I mounted everything to a piece of 1/8 inch abs and I cut a u shaped slot in the carpet to run the wires through and some zip ties. I had to order some wire reducers because I ran 0 gauge wire and the amp only uses 4 gauge. I did this cause I may upgrade later. After install you'll need to disable the ANC mics by unplugging all 4 in the headliner. I searched online all over and I couldn't find where the module is. Trust me it's not the same as the 2019 I checked under the dash. Take out the headliner handles and pull down slightly, reach in there and unplug them. All 4 will need to be unplugged above each seat. I used a flat head to pull the red clips I'll post pics of the ANC mics. This doesnt bother the Bluetooth mic that is in the console where the lights are by the mirror. I personally haven't noticed a difference on the freeway since disabling ANC specially since I have some bass to drown it out 🤘. More pics coming View attachment 9541 View attachment 9542 View attachment 9543 View attachment 9544


Where did you buy the AXEXH GMLN31 from I have been looking to buy one for my install but can't seem to find somewhere to order them.

Thanks
 
#14 ·
I don't think he did, I haven't pull the covers off to see how he wired it, I belive he just tapped the speakers... rear (again I haven't seen seen his work) it's more of a surge going thru the sub that is making it thud- I'm thinking just a bad ground or maybe cheap RCA- he has the LOC located inside the driver side seat belt cover- 🤔
 
#15 ·
Trust me!!! I did the same thing you have to unplug the ANC mics. There is a microphone above the driver, passenger, and backseat behind driver and behind the passenger. They have little grey covers. You have to unplug each one. Take off the handles in the back and you can fit you and in there and unplug it. The front ones are a little more difficult I had to take off the trim off the pillar. If the car sounds good while it's off then it's fine.
 
#17 ·
Cool.. yeah even with the car on and parked it sounds great! It's only when I put it in drive and step on the gas that it does the surge noise an thuds... might relocate the LOC to the amp spot and run the 12v, GRnd etc off the LOC to the amp.. at this point I just disconnect all connections from amp and battery to be safe- being that I saw my amp on still while the car is off🙄☹... if it does the same noise I might have to convince my wife to let me tear her car apart for the ANC..😂
 
#27 ·
No I have the base model so there's no sliding radio. Its just a standard one that you pry off with a panel tool it's just got clips no screws.

The harness is a replica of the factory you plug it into the radio then the other end into the car harness. It allows you to tap the front two speakers without cutting the actual harness from the car.
 
#30 ·
I know this is a slightly older thread, however I have a couple questions pertaining to the harness that you purchased. I was able to find the harness for roughly $50 which is fine but my question is the audio signal in his factory form, does it originate at the radio or does the sound/wattage originate at an external amplifier? I know there’s a box underneath the front passenger dash to the right that has those three or four plugs that are plugged into it, but I was wondering if that was the actual amplifier or if the way you hooked yours up you got the signal before it went to the amplifier. Hope this makes since. If possible could you shoot me a message on here? I’d love to talk to you especially over the phone or at least by messenger that way before I dive in I have a general understanding of what’s to come. I’ve been doing my research and reading up on everything for easily a year now because I cannot stand the sound of the audio and the vehicle. They are nice and we have the sliding screen which is also a nice feature, but I looked recently and they don’t even install a cheap factory center speaker it was just an empty hole. I will say the factory bass reproduction is good compared to vehicles in the past but my intentions are to replace every speaker in the vehicle so that the front and rear are equal as opposed to virtually no sound from the rear at all. Thank you and I really enjoyed and appreciated the detail of your write up / install.

(Disclaimer: I Used talk to text incase the wording or spelling looks crazy lol)