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Gentlemen,

A few comments and a question;
First off my very first car was a 54 Chevy with power-glide, the next two were 66 and 68 Impalas with Turbo 400s - being a young "spirited" driver even I could not hurt those Turbo 400s.
Back in the day it was rewarding to put a BM shift kit in those Tranny's - loved the result (that very firm "kick you in the butt" and chirp the tires shift points).

As for 9 speeds versus 6:
I agree with repairman's comments, with one exception, those 3 extra gears are all about increasing the EPA rating, or at least 2 of them are >> 8th and 9th gears are both overdrive.

Now for that controlled slippage built into these newest tranny's - Seems the carmakers are trying to eliminate that affirmative shift feeling that I prefer, I guess today's customer and many car critics are impressed with that "seamless/invisible" shift point.

So for the next thought I will put on my "flame-suit" :)
I have been thinking about an aftermarket tune for several reasons:

1) The tune I am looking at provides a firmer shift that I would prefer. I think that means that over, time less controlled slippage = equal less tranny wear?
2) The same tune will also disable the auto stop
3) and this one is very minor; If I choose to run Premium fuel I may get a very minor bump in engine output

OK - I am now bracing to hear about tunes and warranty concerns ......
 

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Gentlemen,

A few comments and a question;
First off my very first car was a 54 Chevy with power-glide, the next two were 66 and 68 Impalas with Turbo 400s - being a young "spirited" driver even I could not hurt those Turbo 400s.
Back in the day it was rewarding to put a BM shift kit in those Tranny's - loved the result (that very firm "kick you in the butt" and chirp the tires shift points).

As for 9 speeds versus 6:
I agree with repairman's comments, with one exception, those 3 extra gears are all about increasing the EPA rating, or at least 2 of them are >> 8th and 9th gears are both overdrive.

Now for that controlled slippage built into these newest tranny's - Seems the carmakers are trying to eliminate that affirmative shift feeling that I prefer, I guess today's customer and many car critics are impressed with that "seamless/invisible" shift point.

So for the next thought I will put on my "flame-suit" :)
I have been thinking about an aftermarket tune for several reasons:

1) The tune I am looking at provides a firmer shift that I would prefer. I think that means that over, time less controlled slippage = equal less tranny wear?
2) The same tune will also disable the auto stop
3) and this one is very minor; If I choose to run Premium fuel I may get a very minor bump in engine output

OK - I am now bracing to hear about tunes and warranty concerns ......
  1. I agree, less slipping equals less wear. I also prefer a firmer shift. If I wanted no shift feels I'd get a CVT.
  2. Another excellent benefit to me.
  3. Possibly if the tune lets you run more timing. I'd be less concerned about this because I doubt you'd notice the difference.
  4. I know GM is famous for pulling torque in lower gears, revising the torque management would yield a noticeable difference.
  5. Warranty is definitely a concern, some haven't had issues some have. Do so at your own risk, my assumption when I tune a vehicle is the warranty is DEAD AND GONE. I'm at peace with it and haven't had any issues yet.
 

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The more ''speeds'' you have the more heat and wear you have. Every shift generates wear on the clutches and heat in the fluid. The more shifts you have the more wear you have. Yes TC generates heat but slipping clutches break fluids down more. And those smooth shifts are due to ''controlled'' slippage.
There is no reason a passenger non HD vehicle need a trans. with more than 6 speeds and that's pushing it. 4 speed OD trans. it more than sufficient. Powerglide veteran here.
I too was very surprised on how dark the fluid was in my 3.6 6 speed Equinox at 45k miles on it's first change. I'm stepping up it's interval some to find the ''sweet'' spot'' it needs and will likely mirror the Traverse's schedule. I require a minimum of 200k miles plus out of my transmissions.
9 speeds is just to take the stress off of future tiny turbo motors to meet CAFE and the ''dreams'' of the clueless motoring public.
AlisoBob--You stated it very well!! The old processes worked for the old system. These new systems have yet to be proven to the same level of reliability. Until they are, I'm with you. (And I agree completely that the stresses of "tiny turbo" motors is just beginning; those will introduce additional variables that will only compound the issue. Who knows, maybe it's all a conspiracy to cause us to loose faith in the internal combustion engine and switch to electric; HATE that idea!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #244
1) The tune I am looking at provides a firmer shift that I would prefer. I think that means that over, time less controlled slippage = equal less tranny wear?
2) The same tune will also disable the auto stop
3) and this one is very minor; If I choose to run Premium fuel I may get a very minor bump in engine output

OK - I am now bracing to hear about tunes and warranty concerns ......
This is how stupid GM is... the "Tow / Haul" mode should do all three of those, with the flick of a switch.
 

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@cintocrunch @AlisoBob

Hey guys thanks for commenting on my thoughts for a Tune (especially as it relate to the Tranny).
Good to know my thoughts on this are in-line with some expert thinking :)

For me it's not IF I will do the tune, it will be a matter of WHEN (when I get a more miles on our 19 Traverse, and comfortable with the warranty ramifications)
 

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My tune experience is in my '15 Malibu 2.5 .
I installed a Trifeca tune in it. Tune was a few bucks more than their auto stop eliminator and it included the auto stop eliminator. It had a transparency option feature in it's set up to make tune transparent in the system. I installed it that way. They recommend premium fuel and after putting the tune it had regular in it and in my inital testing it did ping when you ran it WFO, no ping at light or ''normal'' driving. No ping after running out the regular and switching to premium.
Motor pulled harder, throttle was way more responsive in a way I would compare to it getting a 4 to V6 transplant with light throttle application.
Shift points higher, light throttle shifts about 1k rpm higher than stock and way less short shifting like the stock program that tries to get it into the highest gear pulling down rpm. Less light throttle back shifting but give it more and downshifts put it more into the motors powerband. Shifts are immediate.
Family car definitely feels a lot more sporty. From the drivers seat it feels like a big power increase in low and mid range. Top end advertised gain, no way to really tell as it still is only a 2.5 4 cyl. but low and mid it feels like it picked up 50 hp up to about 60 mph compared to stock.
I've had '60's Chevelle's and GTO's and last ''fast'' car was a '07 Mustang GT 3 pedal car just for reference on how my right foot works.
 
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@repairman54

Thanks for sharing your experience with the Trifecta tune - this is the one I am considering. I also see a positive review from someone that installed it on the new Blazer (3.6L / 9 speed)
 

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My neighbor has installed the Trifecta tune on a 1st gen Cruze, 2 2nd gen Cruzes, a K2XX Suburban 5.3 and a GMT900 Silverado 6.2. He loves it and keeps giving me a hard time for not getting it for the Traverse. On the turbo motors it made a larger difference, I guess turning up the boost.
 

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@cintocurunch

I have also read that Trifecta ran some "Black Friday" deals last November .....
 

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Good point - sorry about this turning into a thread high-jack
 

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:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
If you think the salt brine is going to wick up into the threads and become the electrolyte for galvanic corrosion, you're insane.
Here's what one of my engineering books has to say....

"Stainless steel fasteners in aluminum plates ,sheets, or castings are normally considered safe, even with no insulation between the metals there should be little to no risk of corrosion. (The teflon tape we are using could be called a "insulator" to lower any risk even more)

The use of aluminum rivets or bolts holding stainless steel parts together is an unwise combination, as there is a practical risk of corrosion.

When the stainless steel will generate a large corrosion current which will be concentrated onto a small area of sacrificial metal. The aluminum will corrode quickly, and so use of aluminum fasteners in stainless steel is not acceptable. "
Don't much appreciate being told I'm insane. I do happen to be an engineer and I spent some time of my career working on corrosion prevention. That's nice about your "engineering book" but it probably isn't a dedicated book on corrosion. There are different types of stainless steel and aluminum and some are worse when put together than others. I have no way of knowing the exact materials used by Chevy or Gold Plug. I will answer a couple of points though. First, that you think teflon tape will help is wrong. The tape will be cut through at many points, causing direct contact of dissimilar metals. If it isn't a complete isolation then it doesn't help. Second, you don't need the electrolyte to wick up the threads, only get to the interface and start eating away at the transmission case (the aluminum is sacrificial). You don't need to believe me though, time will tell and we can all make our own decisions. Funny that a coworker with a Toyota had his aluminum underbody guards fall off. They were held on with low grade stainless steel screws and the aluminum rusted out wherever it was touching the screws. Not worth the risk but that's just me. To each their own.
 

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Worried, just hit it with some Fluid Film or other corrosion preventer. Teflon pipe thread sealer is my go to on plugs.
Simple fix. In fact I'd be more worried about the head of steel plugs rusting out causing loss of wrench fitting tightly whether internal or external hex in high salt usage areas. Internal hex like transfer case and dif. ones are the worse. Decades of experience on that here.
 

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@repairman54 since the transmission is external you can always grip it with good pliers if starting to rust. The plug can be easily replaced, the transmission case can not. Again, everyone can do what they want. I'm just trying to provide information so that everyone can make an informed decision. I would personally love to have the magnet in there but it didn't work out for me so I'll just stick with the OEM and oil changes every 20k or so.
 

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People bandy about the term "Premium" fuel and need to differentiate between 87 Octane rated gasoline and 89 octane rated gas and 92 or higher octane rated gas. It is evident that few people have a clue about octane rating of gasoline. It is a measure of resistance to pre-ignition as the gas hits the hot inside of the cylinder wall and combusts before there is spark from the plug and before the rod is in the correct position. Early ignition results in knocking and can badly damage an engine.

The higher the degree to which the gas and air mix is compressed the more likely that there will be ignition before there is a spark. Modern engines have device that detects pre-ignition and automatically retards the spark timing to protect the engine. The more the spark needs to be retarded the less the power output from the engine.

The Traverse engine was engineered to use 89 octane rated gasoline. One can use 87 octane rated gasoline instead but it will result in retarded spark ignition and less horsepower and worse fuel economy. Put in 93 octane gasoline and it will provide not change in spark timing and it will add nothing in terms of horsepower or fuel economy as compared to burning 89 octane rated gasoline.
 

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Discussion Starter #258
So I ordered 8 aluminum drain plugs and 8 of the strongest high temp Neodymium magnets I could find. Let me get one together to test it in my car before I ship one to VMech.....

The other 6 will be up for grabs. Cost is pretty cheap.... $10 + shipping.
9886

9885
 

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So I ordered 8 aluminum drain plugs and 8 of the strongest high temp Neodymium magnets I could find. Let me get one together to test it in my car before I ship one to VMech.....

The other 6 will be up for grabs. Cost is pretty cheap.... $10 + shipping.
View attachment 9886
View attachment 9885
Cut the guy some slack, if he went to a real engineering school and not the largest liberal arts college in VA he would understand.

@vtmecheng JUST KIDDING, some light prodding from a former ACC Terrapin CivE... if I really wanted to get under your skin we'd start talking about D1 championships or any other number of things I like to chide my VT coworkers with. Go fighting chickens and Fear the Turtle!

@AlisoBob I'm sure you've done plenty of pan-drops on vehicles over the years... the amount of shmoo the magnets on those pans catch can be pretty amazing. I know a magnet is better than no magnet but I fear a large percentage of the material could still be wandering around the transmission.
 

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Majority of the ''fuzz'' on the magnets is from clutch friction material wearing while shifting.
In the diagram of my 6 speed 'nox the filter is in the bottom above the drain plug, a really strong magnet should help pull some metal junk off the filter or at least catch what falls off on shutdown.
I don't have a 9 speed diagram but should be similar construction.
Catching anything is better than nothing IMO.
 
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