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Hey all,

I have a 2011 v6 AWD Chevy traverse with 85k on it. I started noticing a slight vibration when turning the wheel. Typically occurs when pulling into a parking spot, out of lot at slow speeds, and when reversing with wheel turned. I recently had a road trip to Seattle and the vibration got much worse while there. When driving at faster speeds there is no problem at all. My tires are good and are 20's no rubbing. The vibration and skidding feel comes from the rear end. Any one deal with this or have any ideas?

Also my brakes are all good, recently replaced about 3 months ago.
 

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Jae said:
Hey all,

I have a 2011 v6 AWD Chevy traverse with 85k on it. I started noticing a slight vibration when turning the wheel. Typically occurs when pulling into a parking spot, out of lot at slow speeds, and when reversing with wheel turned. I recently had a road trip to Seattle and the vibration got much worse while there. When driving at faster speeds there is no problem at all. My tires are good and are 20's no rubbing. The vibration and skidding feel comes from the rear end. Any one deal with this or have any ideas?

Also my brakes are all good, recently replaced about 3 months ago.
Rack n pinion... you might have received a notice from GM regarding this...
 

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Hello, I am new to the forum (first post actually). We have purchased a 2010 Traverse LT AWD and love the car. However, we too have had this horrid popping/grinding noise when turning and it tries to force the steering wheel out of the turn. I have researched this all over the web and have found nothing that makes since to me. Now, there can be many causes for a popping noise when turning.

1.) CV Joints
2.) Locking Differential
3.) Tires rubbing caused by:
1.) Wrong sized tires
2.) Worn bushings in the suspension
4.) The rack and pinion

However, none of these really describe or feel like what I have experienced except for maybe the differential.

But, I was thinking, and I would like some input on this thought because it seems to be a common problem.
ok, so I live in a sandy area, and it only pops/grabs when turning in the sand, or when I hit a puddle of water on the road. Turning the (Traction Assist) off helps some, but not all the time. Most of the time it does.

I had taken it to the dealer and wanted them to flush the transmission, and change the gear lube in the differential. I was told that the trans wasn't due (80,000) and would be un-necessary and that the car didn't even have an axle, but a transaxle that used the same fluid. :eyebrow: Since I haven't actually researched it at the time I didn't press the issue because I didn't want to be an ass that was wrong, I prefer being an ass that's right, however I did mention that its AWD, and that there has to be a rear axle. I have never heard of a transaxle using the same fluid for the transmission, and the axle! Please correct me if I am wrong. Anyways, they charged me to do the job, and because at the time life was so busy, I never got around to looking at the plug ( I suspect nothing was done, but to charge me for a job not done ). Anyways, this weekend I'm changing the fluid in the axle(s), transmission fluid, brakes (front/rear) front rotors, brake fluid, engine oil, oil filter, and air filter. All the while I was thinking of my ongoing issue with turning and I thought of this.

Could this not be a suspension, transmission, axle, front end, or steering problem, but an ABS problem? The way it grabs the wheel, the sound, It really acts like the brakes being applied on and off at a rapid rate. Further more, I think its limited slip, so if the transaxle locks a wheel while turning then the ABS would get freaked and apply brakes to the opposite side, wouldn't it?

Also, someone else I know (not this someone, but another someone) told me that the way the traverse locks is with an electric solenoid that gets weak, and when it gets weak it stays locked. I haven't been able to verify that, and would really like to, but that could also play into the ABS causing the grabbing.

Any thoughts?
 

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I'm having the same issue when turning and vibrations in the rear. Did you resolve yours? I am able to stop my 2010 AWD Acadia from doing it by pulling the 15amp AWD fuse. Still dont know what's causing it though. All I've done so far is changed front transfer case fluid.
 

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Hey all,

I have a 2011 v6 AWD Chevy traverse with 85k on it. I started noticing a slight vibration when turning the wheel. Typically occurs when pulling into a parking spot, out of lot at slow speeds, and when reversing with wheel turned. I recently had a road trip to Seattle and the vibration got much worse while there. When driving at faster speeds there is no problem at all. My tires are good and are 20's no rubbing. The vibration and skidding feel comes from the rear end. Any one deal with this or have any ideas?

Also my brakes are all good, recently replaced about 3 months ago.
I have the same problem with my 2011 Enclave.
 

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Having the same problem with my 2011 Acadia. Replaced the front differential still have problem. Rear differential is also fine. Was told I have a small leak around the torque tube. Wondering if this might be the problem?
 

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Having same issue with 2014 Traverse. I previously had a 4x4 Toyota with locking rear diff and the vibration feels identical to when turning corners on a paved surfaces when the 4x4 was still locked. This causes the outer rear wheel to skip/slip to release the drive system tension. There is something definitely going on with the central diff, rear diff, traction control, or ABS in the rear end. Wheel slip always happens on the outer rear wheel in a turn. Skipping happens about 75% of the time. Doesn't seem to be a consistent cause of the 75% I can tell. Took into dealer and they could not reproduce or find anything wrong. It is definitely getting worse over the last month and will be taking it back in. Anyone have any updates on what might be causing this?
 

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Based on FlyEagles comment I pulled the 15 Amp AWD fuse and the vibration immediately went away. Reinserted fuse after two days and vibration immediately came back. Feels like car doesn't sense that front wheels are actually turned to the side and then thinks that different wheel speeds from turning are a wheel slip while it incorrectly thinks car is traveling straight (all wheels should be same speed) and therefore engages brakes to limit wheel slip. Likely a sensor error. No error codes showing when scanned. Traverse headed back to dealer for full debug. Pulling the AWD fuse confirms it's a computer/sensor problem and not mechanical. Mechanical AWD system works fine without fuse, you just loose traction control.
 

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Just got our AWD 2014 traverse back from dealer. As seen in the below picture there is a clutch drum (#18) between the rear drive shaft (#25) and rear differential (#14). It is used to reduce power transmitted to the rear wheels and shift more to the front wheels. This is done when making tight turns. I assume to reduce chance of spinning out in turns. Its seal had failed and leaked out its oil causing damage to the clutch disks inside. When damaged they limit rear power way to much causing the rear wheels to bind up in turns. Never generated any error codes. Drives perfectly after replacing the clutch drum. Hope this can help some others of you figure out what is wrong with your cars.
10590
 

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Just got our AWD 2014 traverse back from dealer. As seen in the below picture there is a clutch drum (#18) between the rear drive shaft (#25) and rear differential (#14). It is used to reduce power transmitted to the rear wheels and shift more to the front wheels. This is done when making tight turns. I assume to reduce chance of spinning out in turns. Its seal had failed and leaked out its oil causing damage to the clutch disks inside. When damaged they limit rear power way to much causing the rear wheels to bind up in turns. Never generated any error codes. Drives perfectly after replacing the clutch drum. Hope this can help some others of you figure out what is wrong with your cars.
View attachment 10590
I'm having the same problem too. How much was the replacement?
 

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Hey all,

I have a 2011 v6 AWD Chevy traverse with 85k on it. I started noticing a slight vibration when turning the wheel. Typically occurs when pulling into a parking spot, out of lot at slow speeds, and when reversing with wheel turned. I recently had a road trip to Seattle and the vibration got much worse while there. When driving at faster speeds there is no problem at all. My tires are good and are 20's no rubbing. The vibration and skidding feel comes from the rear end. Any one deal with this or have any ideas?

Also my brakes are all good, recently replaced about 3 months ago.
Had same problem with 2015 LTZ. Mechanic found rack leaking into the boots. Replaced rack but still had some issues with pulsating steering wheel when stopped on pavement. Also some noise. I had them replace the PS pump as well as a high pressure hose and made sure they used Dexron VI instead of the Prestone fluid they usually use. Now it's like brand new. Nice and quiet and no leaks. Really enjoy driving it now. Reman. pump installed I've read is better than OEM > https://www.autozone.com/suspension...ndurance-power-steering-pump-63205/220663_0_0
 

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I'm reading two different problems here. My response was to the OP although I see now that was way back in 2015.

However, I see with traction control turned on, tight parking lot steering feels just it did with my Trailblazer with the 4WD engaged. Like something to avoid as though it could break.
 

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Just got our AWD 2014 traverse back from dealer. As seen in the below picture there is a clutch drum (#18) between the rear drive shaft (#25) and rear differential (#14). It is used to reduce power transmitted to the rear wheels and shift more to the front wheels. This is done when making tight turns. I assume to reduce chance of spinning out in turns. Its seal had failed and leaked out its oil causing damage to the clutch disks inside. When damaged they limit rear power way to much causing the rear wheels to bind up in turns. Never generated any error codes. Drives perfectly after replacing the clutch drum. Hope this can help some others of you figure out what is wrong with your cars.
View attachment 10590
Do you know if the mechanic replaced the whole torque tube or just the viscous coupler(clutch drum #18)?
 
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