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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to the forum and I hope someone can help me out! A few months back I bought a 2010 traverse from am older couple with 160k on it. Got a good deal because it had a rod knock. Other than the knock it's in decent shape and everything else works fine including the remote start. I've build quite a few engines so I figured I'd throw some bearings in it and be good. I dropped the pan, #6 was shot, but the crank looked decent. So I put in new rod bearings and it ran pretty good... That is until after a few hundred miles, then it failed catastrophically. Snapped rod, hole in the pan and block. Surprisingly it still ran even after dropping a rod! So it's been sitting a few months with the battery disconnected. I picked up an engine with 75k miles on it and dropped it in yesterday. Got it all hooked up and when I turn the key fuel pump kicks on, dash lights, stereo, fan all comes on. But when I turn the key to start the dash lights go out and nothing happens. I figured the battery was low after sitting for so long, so I threw the charger on. After a few hours still same thing. I checked the voltage at the battery and at the fuse block, 12.3 volts on both. I knew the battery was getting weak when I bought the car so I went and got a new one. 12.9v at the fuse block and still have the same symptoms. I've triple checked all the grounds and connections, hot going to the starter, ignition wire going to starter and all is well. I swapped starter and defrost relays, nothing. I pulled the relay and jumped 30 to 87, cranked good, but even with the key on won't start. I tried the remote start, lights flash like it's trying to start, but nothing. I've tried both keys thinking it was a security issue, no change. No security lights on on the dash. When the key is on it says, service traction and service stabilitrack, which it didn't say that before. The other weird thing is when you turn the key on the first time the door chime dings rapidly and changes tone length, almost sounds like morris code. I'm at a loss of what to check next, any help would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After writing this post, I read it with a scanner. No codes. I started looking through the live data and noticed there was no info from the ECM, and said the ECM was only getting voltage with the crank position. Did more online research and found ground G110 located on passenger side, rear bank head is the ground for the ECM. Sure enough, I missed that one. Now it cranks over great, sputters but won't fire. I need to do some diagnosis on it tomorrow. Thanks for the reply, you were def on the right track!
 
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