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Discussion Starter #1
I am offering $30 thru Paypal who can help me fix it or narrow it down to where the culprit is:

story time:

2010 traverse FWD with 170k, you turn the key, all lights come on, gauges turn but no crank, no clicking noises nothing. No CEL. Try a few times and nothing, wait a little longer try it again and it cranks. Sometimes open the door and closing it i get it to start. This going on for almost a year.

2 nights ago, i move the car out of the garage to the curb, starts right off then a few hrs later came back to move it back and it would not crank, tried it about 7 times and nothing. The next morning, I tried it another 5-8 times and nothing, I locked then unlocked the steering wheel and nothing, put in N and nothing. This morning, i tried it another 10 times and nothing but i needed to move the car back a few feet to get it out of the curb so i turn the key and put it on N and push it 5 feet then park then try to start it and it starts like nothing is wrong!!!!

Additional issues at random times:

* While driving once in a while the oil pressure sensor warning comes on then it goes off after a few miles.
* while driving once in a while and a person in the passenger seat with their belt ON, the car rings to put passenger seat belt on.
* while driving once in a while the transmission does not shift out of 3rd gear so i have to pull over, turn it off then back on then continue to drive with no issues.

Things i have tried:

* I replaced oil pressure sensor, same issue with the OPS(no oil leaks either)
* old battery checked and recharged and same issues
* replaced with new battery and same issues
* unplugged onstar unit and nothing
* check and cleaned battery cables and nothing
* unplugged battery while running to test alternator and it works, car doesn't die.
* tested for blown fuses and visual check relays and they all look good
* i gently wiggle the ecm harness during the no start in the past and nothing
* cleaned MAF sensor too

Took it to the dealer about 4 times and since they "cant" replicate any of the issues and no codes, they havent been able to help me!!!!!!

I am pretty mechanical incline so if you have something for me to try and know the steps let me know and i will give it a try and if it works, ill send some beer money your way!!!

I am planning a new and reprogrammed ECM but before i pull the plug I wanna hear it from you all.

I also have had the traverse since 75K miles too.
 

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Doing this- can cause issues on these modern cars.

* unplugged battery while running to test alternator and it works, car doesn't die.


The Body Control Module (BCM) may be damaged if the module is supplied with battery power when the ground path is removed on some vehicles. The negative battery cable should be removed first before removing a BCM ground on 2006-2008 Monte Carlo; 2006-2011 Lucerne, DTS; 2006-2012 Impala; 2007-2009 SRX, Equinox, Torrent; 2007-2010 OUTLOOK; 2007-2012 Enclave, Acadia, Silverado, Sierra, Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL, Escalade; 2008-2010 VUE, H2; 2008-2012 CTS, Express, Savana and Traverse models.

When the BCM is powered up (key in the Accessory or Run position) with the ground ring terminal removed or loose, the BCM will attempt to find a different ground path to the vehicle. This different ground path attempt may cause internal damage to the BCM.

The following systems controlled by the BCM may be inoperative or work intermittently because of an internally damaged BCM caused by a lifted BCM ground:
•Interior lighting (will remain on or will not work)
•Exterior lighting (will remain on or will not work)
•Remote Keyless Entry
•Door locks
•Power windows and mirrors
•Remote vehicle start

Refer to Bulletin #07-08-47-004D for additional information. Models listed in the bulletin and not referenced above have the BCM ground wires going directly from the BCM to the ground ring terminal.

 

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The BCM,ECM, all computers HATE loose, bad, corroded connections of any kind.


Be very careful, these little jewels are costly.


Corroded battery cables and bad,or "going" bad batteries are "generally" the culprit, but you've already checked...right?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tech dealer said to do this at home so I tried it.

Doing this- can cause issues on these modern cars.

* unplugged battery while running to test alternator and it works, car doesn't die.


The Body Control Module (BCM) may be damaged if the module is supplied with battery power when the ground path is removed on some vehicles. The negative battery cable should be removed first before removing a BCM ground on 2006-2008 Monte Carlo; 2006-2011 Lucerne, DTS; 2006-2012 Impala; 2007-2009 SRX, Equinox, Torrent; 2007-2010 OUTLOOK; 2007-2012 Enclave, Acadia, Silverado, Sierra, Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL, Escalade; 2008-2010 VUE, H2; 2008-2012 CTS, Express, Savana and Traverse models.

When the BCM is powered up (key in the Accessory or Run position) with the ground ring terminal removed or loose, the BCM will attempt to find a different ground path to the vehicle. This different ground path attempt may cause internal damage to the BCM.

The following systems controlled by the BCM may be inoperative or work intermittently because of an internally damaged BCM caused by a lifted BCM ground:
•Interior lighting (will remain on or will not work)
•Exterior lighting (will remain on or will not work)
•Remote Keyless Entry
•Door locks
•Power windows and mirrors
•Remote vehicle start

Refer to Bulletin #07-08-47-004D for additional information. Models listed in the bulletin and not referenced above have the BCM ground wires going directly from the BCM to the ground ring terminal.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
I replaced the battery with a new one even though i was told the the "old one" was still good.

All cables look good, no signs of corrosion either. At the battery that is.

The BCM,ECM, all computers HATE loose, bad, corroded connections of any kind.


Be very careful, these little jewels are costly.


Corroded battery cables and bad,or "going" bad batteries are "generally" the culprit, but you've already checked...right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dealer "fixed" a hissing noise at the AC due to a "possible" leak in the ac lines inside the car?

Warranty work, done about 3yrs ago.

To my understanding they had to take the whole dashboard apart to "get" to the lines and replace them.

Was ANY work done to the vehicle by yourself or a mechanic prior to this happening almost a year ago?
 

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U ever heard of a Loadpro? As vehicles age electrical problems increase causing all sorts of problems, especially bad,corroded, loose grounds. Difficult to find.


Go on U Tube and plug in Dan Sullivan's Loadpro. Watch some of his videos.


Some vehicles are "born" with inherent bad electrical problems. IE: my 2001 Dodge 2500 diesel. Nothing but electrical problems from the first day I drove it home right up to now. For no reason it recently has"developed" a case of no headlights. The engineer who designed the wiring for the headlights outta be strung up by his thumbs. Just my extremely humble opinion.
 

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Does the security light behave any different when the no start happens? See below. It’s a padlock/car symbol:

It sounds like an intermittent issue with the key chip reader. Open up the steering column and check the connectors, wires going to the key cylinder. Try to start it and keep retrying while you wiggle/tap/ move the wires and module and see if it starts. If it does you may have narrowed it down to the culprit system. When they put it all back together after disassembling the dash, things may not be lined up right, could have a pinched wire or a damaged reader. It reads the chip by proximity so if the reader is not installed right it may be in and out of range slightly.
 

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I agree with the key cylinder / immobilizer theory that is re-enforced by the fact the dash was "disturbed" in a prior repair. I would also not rule out the starter relay(s) in the fuse block. Relays fail after years of use and do not always show outward signs of a failure. For a couple dollars to replace all the relays that you can see with new ones that are easily obtained at any auto parts store or on Amazon, I would do it just for peace of mind. Repairs without obvious failure points should always start with the simplest and cheapest. Also, when replacing the relays, disconnect the battery and use a little electrical contact cleaner to clean out the relay block terminals on the fuse block. Even small amounts of corrosion can cause the relays not to actuate when they are supposed to.
 

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I am also leaning towards the shifter neutral switch or the column key reader. Any work done up in the dash could have loosened a connector or pinched wire during reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
No, it does not change. I even tried the "key re-learn/security" where you leave the key in for xx time but it did not fix it either.

I cant seem to find a way to the key cylinder or where exactly is the chip reader. I did move the wires around and still nothing.

PS: car was working ok since i posted and today it just did the same time--it will not start and i have tried all my "combinations"

Does the security light behave any different when the no start happens? See below. It’s a padlock/car symbol:

It sounds like an intermittent issue with the key chip reader. Open up the steering column and check the connectors, wires going to the key cylinder. Try to start it and keep retrying while you wiggle/tap/ move the wires and module and see if it starts. If it does you may have narrowed it down to the culprit system. When they put it all back together after disassembling the dash, things may not be lined up right, could have a pinched wire or a damaged reader. It reads the chip by proximity so if the reader is not installed right it may be in and out of range slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I just checked the switch, or i think i did--here is what i did:

I pull the covers to get to the wires/switch behind the steering wheel then i found the neutral switch. I then freely moved it with my fingers, then while feeling/holding the switch I tried to start it with the key and I felt the switch go in then after i turned the key off, the switch went back out.

I also tried pushing in the switch while starting the key with my finger and nothing. Did i miss something?

PS: car was working ok since i posted and today it just did the same time--it will not start and i have tried all my "combinations"

Have you checked the neutral safety switch
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Any tips on how to check the key cylinder?--I just ordered new relays to rule this out per your suggestion.

Ill share when they get here.

PS: car was working ok since i posted and today it just did the same time--it will not start and i have tried all my "combinations"


I agree with the key cylinder / immobilizer theory that is re-enforced by the fact the dash was "disturbed" in a prior repair. I would also not rule out the starter relay(s) in the fuse block. Relays fail after years of use and do not always show outward signs of a failure. For a couple dollars to replace all the relays that you can see with new ones that are easily obtained at any auto parts store or on Amazon, I would do it just for peace of mind. Repairs without obvious failure points should always start with the simplest and cheapest. Also, when replacing the relays, disconnect the battery and use a little electrical contact cleaner to clean out the relay block terminals on the fuse block. Even small amounts of corrosion can cause the relays not to actuate when they are supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I tried moving the wires then trying to start and nothing. Neutral switch seems to be working fine, unless you know of a specific way for me to test it.

I am also leaning towards the shifter neutral switch or the column key reader. Any work done up in the dash could have loosened a connector or pinched wire during reassembly.
 

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I tried moving the wires then trying to start and nothing. Neutral switch seems to be working fine, unless you know of a specific way for me to test it.


I do not know what the neutral switch looks like but if it has two wires and is just an open closed switch, you can check it with a multi meter to see if it changes open to closed or closed to open when you shift in and out of park. Or unplug the switch and try to start it. If nothing, short the terminals and try again. If either of these work then the switch is bad.
 

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Try unplugging all of your connectors from your bcm and re plugging them back in, when you have them unplugged inspect the terminals (both Male and female) for green corrosion, if you don't find any corrosion, plug them back in and make sure they're seated well, the proper way to plug in an electrical connector is to push it in and make sure it clicks, do NOT pull on it to make sure it is tight as this can dislodge a pin causing poor connection or no connection, also be sure to check for bent pins and things of that nature, also, unplugging these connectors and plugging them back in may throw codes in which you will need to delete if a light pops up on your IPC so be prepared for that, this issue that you're describing sounds like it's module related, I could be wrong, I'm not sure if these vehicles are equipped with a fuel pump module or not but that's also a possibility, I've seen them cause this issue on other vehicles
 

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I know the dealer said they found no codes, but have you tried scanning it yourself or maybe someone you know has a decent scanner that could possibly pull some codes?
 

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It may be happening to my 2015 now In parking lot after 20 minutes of shopping, go to start, nothing, second try, nothing, third try it started. Shifter was in park, not moved between tries.
 
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