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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 traverse with the much loved 3.6(ha....ha),..It drove fine then all of a sudden it started dying, and barely got othome. I thought oh %#@& NO!!!!, please not the dreaded timing chain. Its not giving any codes though. It is hard starting, might idle for 3-5 minutes then dies. I bought it about 2 months ago, so not any idea on what type of oil used before. I know it says it needs synthetic, but maybe owner or dumbass dealer used conventional. I check awhile back and oil level was good, THIS TIME,...it was showing low. It doesnt smoke or leave spots though. Im wondering if the oil was crap or heated and gunked up and plugged something maybe. Could NON synthetic hurt the chevy 3.6 engines? I on plan on checking a few other things tomorrow. I have been overdosing on 3.6 youtube vids. I am checking catalytic converter for plugging by pulling upflow sensor and seeing if it breathes easier, then checking the purge valve for vacuum to see if its stuck open. Has anybody had anything like this? Any ideas WHY i cant get a code? I did see several including mechanics...say if there are timing chain stretches, guides , tensioner or other chain problems...you're probably going to hear it. This has no extra noises. Any ideas would help....thanks everybody
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
update: I was wondering if the wrong oil used or way beyond changing caused sludge or plugged holes causing engine to misbehave. I used motor flush and fresh synthetic oil used. Checked the fuel vapor purge valve, its okay.
The engine starts, idles smooth, no sounds or smoke,...then just dies. It doesnt really stumble, it just dies.I'M NOW thinking it could be the crankshaft positioning sensor. Ive watched several videos that sound familiar. Has anybody had THIS happen? Also, like i said...no codes or engine light. It did flash the engine light right when i got home, but...no sounds or smoke...i really dont think NOW its the chain. Im like 88-90% sure its NOT. It seems like a sensor, fuel delivery, or electrical. BTW,...i did add some STP to the fuel today also.
 

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the 2010 did not require Synthetic. At the time, the requirements were any oil meeting spec GM6094M. Which any quality conventional oil met.
On my 2010, from
0 to 140,000 miles I used nothing but Valvoline Conventional.
140,000 to 150,000 I slowly started to transition to Valvoline High Mileage witch is a blend (syn and conventional).
150,000 to 167,000 ive used Valvoline High mileage.

going forward I will change to Kirkland Full Synthetic. Simply because it is cheaper to buy than Valvolines Conventional or High Mileage.
I do have plenty of used oil analysis that show that the oil was doing a good job. (oil changes at 5000 miles)

My engine does burn oil now. But- on these engines its not a question of if.... but when. Its practically a given they will burn oil as they rack up the miles. It has to do with the Carbon on the valves and carbon breaking off and scoring the cylinder walls over time.

I check my oil level weekly. I keep the oil level to my full level. (The oil level I see after an oil and filter change- thats my full level).

These engines have 2 fuel pumps. 1 low pressure pump in the tank that pushes fuel to the engine. 1 HIGH pressure fuel pump attached to the side of engine. It is run by an extra cam lobe.
I am wondering if one of the pumps is acting up.

I would try to spray some carb cleaner or engine start? and see if the engine continues to run on the spray. if it continues to run on the spray- than you can look into fuel delivery
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks. Sometimes it runs for 15 sec,....sometimes up to a minute. Id probably use a whole can. At this point it sounds like the crank positioning sensor. Im going to pull and test BEFORE throwing down $30.
 

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ahh got it.
I was thinking 10-30 sec... then turning off. keep us informed
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I pulled MAF and cleaned and also cleaned throttle body. I started and pulled MAF connector to see if it actually idled and didnt die,..nope it died after so many seconds of running smooth. I had watched video that suggested that simple test. After pulling the MAF connector i did however get codes finally. I got 4 codes. Im guessing though they might be from me pulling connector. Two were related to MAF, and one was related to purge valve. I checked purge valve by unconnecting power and hose to see if stuck open pulling vacuum,...nope. So i assumed it was okay.
I did notice a few new things though. I noticed a few times a slow "tick" sound on backside of engine, possibly under valve cover. It didnt last whole time engine running though,...AND sometime i heard it with engine OFF. The engine would start, idle smooth(no sound),....THEN...the idle would drop 2-3 times ( drop, up to idle...drop, up to idle...drop, up to idle)....then a few seconds later die. After each time it dies, i hear a single click or something on that backside. Its almost like something closing or maybe a busted part(sensor, rocker arm...??). I dont know, its supposed to go to the shop on the 2nd,...but i really dont have the extra $$ for a pricy job. At least it doesnt sound like its up front in chain area...
 
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