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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All

Please be patient with me. I have searched at length and tried many things to resolve my issue. My last resort may be paying a dealer to spend hours looking for the problem.

Car is a 2009 Traverse with the Bose sound system.

SYMPTOMS
Problem persists about 95% of the time. Occassionally issue will go away but only for a day or two.
All controls from the driver side master window switch will not work. There is no lights where you select driver or passenger mirror for adjustment. The backlights on the switch wont work.

Recently noticed the driver side heated seat will not work while switch is not working.

Have a longstanding issue where back speakers will distort with a grounding issue. I bang on the arm rest where the rear radio controls are and it will go back to normal (i doubt this is related but it may be, so i included it)

Things I have done:

-Found light corrosion on the quick disconnect in the door frame. Cleaned with abrasive cloth, electrical cleaner and applied dielectric grease.
-Replaced master switch
-Had dealer reprogram master switch.
-Checked wiring harness from door jam to just behind the dash panel for any damaged wires.
-Checked wiring in door looking for any sign of damage or water. Verified all quick connects were properly seated.
-Verified voltage behind the door side of the harness as well as at the switch. Found 7-8 volts on the smaller diameter red wire with white stripe. Found 12 on the larger red/white which I believe goes direct to window motor.
-This voltage is the red/white and black that goes into the first port on the master switch.
-Found from a mechanic that the 7-8 volts may be normal due to this being possibly a digital signal and not raw voltage.


I beg for any assistance you can provide. I really cant afford to pay the $700-1000 for the shop to troubleshoot this problem.

Please, if more info or pics would be helpful please let me know.

Daniel
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you greentraverse.

So as i went to look at those grounds i noticed a clicking sound coming from the control switch. A methodical clicking just like a directional being left on. I hit the window switch and nothing, but a second or two later the window crept up an inch. I kept hitting the button and got the window upin random one or two inch increments. It was still clicking so i grabbed my VOM and looked at the first connector on the back of the switch, red/white and black. It was alternating from 4 volts to 9 volts. It seemed to be moving with the clicking, which was definitely coming from the switch.

I did get to check the ground on the passenger side beam. It appeared tight and none of the wires coming out moved or freed themselves when i tugged on them. By this time the clicking stop and the switch was back to being dead.

-Is the other ground you mentioned under the driver seat? Do i have to remove it and/or the carpet to get at it?

-Is it possible there is a bad relay or other type of power supply for this switch that is going bad? Could that also impact the heated seat? Or are they completely unrelated?

-Should i see a specific voltage at the switch? Ive seen anywhere from 4-9 vdc.

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Another note. I tried replacing the relay. As i was removing it i heard some random clicking from the switch. Once i replaced it i could not replicate the clicking and the switch still did not work. I wiggled the wiring harness nearby; not sure if it was related but it did contain the red/white wires.
 

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Greentraverse references G302.
I remember that # from a video I saw.... it was a bad ground there- causing window switch /DIC/display issues.
Interestingly- plugging in a OBD reader- made the problems go away...
PLug in an OBD reader and see if the switch works....


This video shows issues related to that ground....




 

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I believe both grounds are in the same location, just on opposite sides of the car. In the G303 pic, item #5 appears to be floating in mid-air, due to the drivers side pillar being removed "for clarity."
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update... I noticed today that as i shifted into gear (shift from park = car doors lock automatically) that my switch stopped working. I shifted back to park and turned off car. Turned back on, switch came back to life (can tell by backlight on the switch coming on) shifted into reverse and as soon as the locks engaged the switch died. Not sure how or even if this is directly related, but the locks do sound a bit sluggish, as if the battery is very low or the motors are trying to get too much power. An overload or something.

This phenomena doesnt happen each time. I have tried again shifting and turning engine off and the switch is still dead. Only thing I know for sure is the switch and locks engaging happened simultaneously 3 times today.

Hoping someone hears all the facts and can provide a suggestion.
 

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My guess.......Somewhere, sometime, the driver's window was left open or the door was open during a rain downpour and the internal switch contacts are crapped out......that's where your poor return ground is located.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How old is your battery? Many threads here of weird stuff happening and going away with a new battery.
Any chance you can find the wiring diagram for the connectors and the master switch. I’m getting this clicking noise from it and it only stops when I remove the red&black... the one with 4-9 volts on it.
 

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Any chance you can find the wiring diagram for the connectors and the master switch. I’m getting this clicking noise from it and it only stops when I remove the red&black... the one with 4-9 volts on it.
Not sure what you want. The first pic in post #2 is the front and passenger window diagrams.

I've attached two drivers connectors. They both say "without AXE." I believe AXE is power windows, so something seems incorrect there. Maybe mislabeled. The 1st pic in Post 2 appears to have X2 as it's connector.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Connected to the master switch in the driver door there are four different connectors. One is a black and red wire labeled J1.
There is a grey 14 pin connector labeled J4. A brown 8 pin connector labeled J2, a black 10 pin labeled J3 and a white 10 pin labeled J7.

I believe the image you sent was J7... its a 10 pin but only 8 spots are being used.

What I am trying to narrow down, what does each connector control? It appreas J7, the one you sent, should be the windows. I am beginning to suspect the power locks are causing an overload or short of some kind (i have found the switch to be active and working but stop as soon as the locks are engaged).

Are you able to identify the other connectors? Or at least the one responsible for controlling locks?
 

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Connected to the master switch in the driver door there are four different connectors. One is a black and red wire labeled J1.
There is a grey 14 pin connector labeled J4. A brown 8 pin connector labeled J2, a black 10 pin labeled J3 and a white 10 pin labeled J7.

I believe the image you sent was J7... its a 10 pin but only 8 spots are being used.

What I am trying to narrow down, what does each connector control? It appreas J7, the one you sent, should be the windows. I am beginning to suspect the power locks are causing an overload or short of some kind (i have found the switch to be active and working but stop as soon as the locks are engaged).

Are you able to identify the other connectors? Or at least the one responsible for controlling locks?
Can't find anything called J2, J4, J7. If you look at the first two drwgs in Post #2, you'll see what's going to it is called X2, and what I sent you is called X2. Don't know where the "J's" are coming from.
 
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