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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I get a call from my son last night, who has been using our 09 Traverse LTZ, telling me that the car won't start and that a light that has a car with a padlock is lit up. When I get there, sure enough the theft deterrent light is lit up and the car won't start. Everything else fires up like normal when the key is inserted and switched to the on position. When the key is turned to the start position, nothing else happens. It doesn't even try to start. Plugged in the code reader and the only thing that comes up is a catalyst code. P0420 IIRC. Forgot to mention that the check engine light is on also but has been for a while so I don't believe these two issues are related. So long story short, after digging around on the interwebs for a while, I have tried the 10 minute reset, the 30 minute reprogram, disconnecting the battery for at least 10 mins (closer to 15), checking for loose connections, checking the fuses, and even taking the battery cables, when disconnected, and touching them together for 1 min (not sure what that was supposed to accomplish but at this point I'm trying just about anything) and all failed. :angryfire: With the common solution being the 10 minute reset (turn the vehicle to the on position, try to start the vehicle, and leave the key in the on position for 10 minutes until the theft deterrent light goes out) I never got the theft deterrent light to go out. I even let it go for a couple more minutes just in case. I even tried the other key since it doesn't get used near as much. Nada. :eek:hno: So this is leading me to believe that I have a problem with the Passkey 3 system itself. Somehow the anti theft system triggered and now it can't be turned off or reset rendering my vehicle useless. :banghead:

Has anyone else had this issue? I tried doing a forum search and unless I didn't get the right keywords, nothing showed up. Please help!! :help: Anyone have any suggestions? I'm all ears. Otherwise, I believe my next course of action is to have the thing towed to the dealership and have them service it (out of warranty so that is going to royally SUCK). This has got to be on of the worst ideas to install a system that if it fails the only way to get your vehicle up and running again is to take it to the dealer. There should at least be some kind of separate key or a code to type in a hidden menu somewhere to disable the anti-theft system.

I did run across a product in my searches that claims to bypass the Passkey 3 system altogether, but I'm afraid of this being a scam of sorts. It is a company called Newrockies. Their website is newrockies.com (I can't post links yet).
 

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Unless I missed it... Did you try to lock then unlock all the doors with the remote your son was using? When using the remote to unlock did you get a 2 or 3 horn beep and the display saying something about "attempted theft" (not sure of the correct words)?

Or did he just come out of the car and use the door lock switch and not the remote?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
MrSteve said:
Unless I missed it... Did you try to lock then unlock all the doors with the remote your son was using? When using the remote to unlock did you get a 2 or 3 horn beep and the display saying something about "attempted theft" (not sure of the correct words)?

Or did he just come out of the car and use the door lock switch and not the remote?
He says that when he went to work yesterday that at some point in time on the way to work he noticed the car and padlock light had come on. When he got to work he says he shut the car off then he locked the car using the door lock inside the vehicle instead of the key fob. He has been locking the car from the inside for about the last 5 days or so because he has been having issues with the key fob not locking the doors all the time. Not sure if that could have triggered the anti theft or not. I do the exact same thing in my 06 Impala because my key fob is almost useless (still stock) but I have not had a single issue with the anti theft system. Now we did try unlocking the door using the key fob and then after running over to our local Car Toys car stereo shop, one of the technicians suggested trying to manually unlock the door with the key and try turning the key in the unlock direction twice. So we tried a couple of variations of this: first was with the door locked, I inserted the key and unlocked the door then returned the key to the center position and turned it back to the unlock position again then back to the center position and pulled the key out. No luck. Then I tried again by relocking the door (can't recall if I used the fob or the internal lock, if it matters) then I put the key in the door and unlocked the door then turned the key the other way and relocked the door then back to unlock and then to center position and pulled the key out. Again no luck. I am curious if there is some kind of secret code like this and I just haven't hit the right combo yet?

Now something I found interesting (confusing) is when I push the internal lock and shut the door, the doors lock as normal (couple of second delay and then doors all lock with a corresponding honk of the horn) and I watched the dashboard and saw the anti-theft light come on and then go out after about 30 secs. If I read the manual correctly, this is exactly what is supposed to happen. So the locking sequence appears to work correctly. It's just when the vehicle is unlocked, the anti theft system is staying engaged and not allowing the car to start. Frustrating is an understatement here.

Also, to answer one of your questions, there was no words of any kind in the information center. No "attempted theft" nor no "service theft deterrent system" or whatever the words are of any kind. Not sure what that means or not. If you have any more information you need please let me know. Thank you for your assistance.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is another question that someone may know: When you install an aftermarket car alarm (Clifford, Autopage, Viper, etc.), does that aftermarket system utilize the existing Passkey 3 system, or does it completely bypass it altogether? If it bypasses it altogether, instead of taking it down to the dealership and have them charge me a fortune for a fix that won't be guaranteed to last, would I be able to take it and have an aftermarket system installed and have it clear the stock anti-theft lockout that currently exists? Does that make sense?
 

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Here is a free download of the factory service manual for the Enclave, which also has Traverse, Outlook, and Acadia information.

Perhaps you can find something looking through the manual that would help. Remember, almost all of the components are the same in each of the models and brands.


https://mega.nz/#!zlFDEIJZ!lhEvdcmJL895CqO3HHkWfb1_8lGKFRajYnKT9Uac1i8
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ls973800 said:
Here is a free download of the factory service manual for the Enclave, which also has Traverse, Outlook, and Acadia information.

Perhaps you can find something looking through the manual that would help. Remember, almost all of the components are the same in each of the models and brands.
Wonderful! Thank you very much. Now I got some reading to do.
 

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esappy said:
Wonderful! Thank you very much. Now I got some reading to do.
To access codes and data you need a scanner capable of accessing the Body control module.

Have you tried another key, sometimes they go bad. You can have a locksmith come and make one on the spot.

There can also be interference from another key or device like a vehicle immobilizer key from other vehicles, keyless access transmitters from other vehicles, interstate/bridge toll passes, gate passes, community/parking access cards, fuel station speed passes, and building access swipe cards/ transponder devices.

The module in the steering column can be bad. Replacing it won't require programing.
 

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Wow that's a odd issue to have. Did some digging and didn't find anything that 'specifically" pertained to exactly the issue you're having. BUT I did find a few possible related things you can try or check for.

There are TSB's 173998 & 190473 description Security Light ON intermittently/Start Stall/No Crank (14-May-2012). Affecting 09-12 Traverse. It is possible that another RFID device may interfere with the Passkey system. The range of the interference can vary based on the strength of the RFID which may affect the key to exciter module communication. All sets of keys should be inspected for such RFID devices. The customer may be removing the RFID device, from the key ring, when dropping the vehicle off for service. If you are unable to duplicate the concern review this information with the customer and ask if they use any search RFID devices. These RFID devices will need to be removed from the key ring. Dealer may pull codes like B3055, B3060, and/or B3935.

They go on to describe other car keys/ EZPass like modules/gas pump quick pass transponders etc. being possible causes. Does your son have anything like those in the car or on his key ring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
darkstarmoto said:
They go on to describe other car keys/ EZPass like modules/gas pump quick pass transponders etc. being possible causes. Does your son have anything like those in the car or on his key ring?
He hasn't added or removed anything from his keychain in some time. It's really weird that he started it at home and made it to work. Then 4 hours later after his shift was over, the vehicle is locked out. I don't know crap about this security system and unfortunately I don't have the time to dedicate to learning the whole thing. The vehicle is stuck in a store parking lot and I need to get it moved quickly before it gets towed because another store might think it's been abandoned. If it died at home, I would at least have more time on my side. My biggest fear is that we are going to end up replacing a bunch of parts that may or may not be the problem. And if they are electrical parts, my experience is that once installed there is no return option. Plus if I have to go through a dealership, that's going to be even more expensive.

That's why I brought up the question about aftermarket security systems. If I were to get, let's say, a Clifford alarm system installed, would it completely bypass the factory installed Passkey 3 system thus deactivating any anti-theft cutout. If that were to be the case, then I would much rather get an aftermarket system installed and be done with it. I don't know if this is an option and being at work right now makes it difficult to find out.

I do really appreciate everyones help though. Thank you very much.

Eric
 

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Hmm...no idea about using aftermarket alarms or if they would bypass the OE alarm or not. May make a bad situation worse until you know what the initial reason is.

I know this will sound crazy but it might be worth a shot if it works. Take some aluminum foil with you to the Traverse, wrap it around the steering column key area leaving the smallest opening possible to access turning the key (you may be able to turn key thru the foil). Basically trying to shield the ignition switch from outside influence. The RFID source may not be on the key ring...it maybe local to where the car is sitting. The foil will shield the ignition switch presumably letting it start if the Security light goes out (you may need to do the ECU reset 1 more time while the ignition is covered). Some RFID devices can have a range of 300ft.

I know it's a very long shot...but I can't find anything else related other than making sure the battery in remote is good but that shouldn't trigger the security light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
darkstarmoto said:
Hmm...no idea about using aftermarket alarms or if they would bypass the OE alarm or not. May make a bad situation worse until you know what the initial reason is.

I know this will sound crazy but it might be worth a shot if it works. Take some aluminum foil with you to the Traverse, wrap it around the steering column key area leaving the smallest opening possible to access turning the key (you may be able to turn key thru the foil). Basically trying to shield the ignition switch from outside influence. The RFID source may not be on the key ring...it maybe local to where the car is sitting. The foil will shield the ignition switch presumably letting it start if the Security light goes out (you may need to do the ECU reset 1 more time while the ignition is covered). Some RFID devices can have a range of 300ft.

I know it's a very long shot...but I can't find anything else related other than making sure the battery in remote is good but that shouldn't trigger the security light.
This will be a very long shot indeed. My son has been working at this place for a while and has never had this issue before. I guess it is possible that one of the stores brought in something between Friday night and Saturday afternoon that is creating some kind of interference. Highly unlikely though. But I will give it a try just because I am out of any other ideas. If that doesn't work, I think I won't have any other choice but get it towed to the dealer for inspection.
 

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^^ agreed...I just haven't found any other TSB's that point to the same 'no start' and 'security' light symptoms. I agree with your line of thought that the ECU somehow has lost it's sync to the security code somehow, I just don't see how that happens 'gradually' as you noted he was having trouble getting the remote to lock the doors the last few days prior. Generally it's working or not...and to have the security light pop on while in motion is really odd. I'm still reading thru the 570 TSB's so if I find something relevant I'll post it. In the meantime good luck, if it goes to the dealership I hope they can plug it into their scanner and find something right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
darkstarmoto said:
Hmm...no idea about using aftermarket alarms or if they would bypass the OE alarm or not. May make a bad situation worse until you know what the initial reason is.

I know this will sound crazy but it might be worth a shot if it works. Take some aluminum foil with you to the Traverse, wrap it around the steering column key area leaving the smallest opening possible to access turning the key (you may be able to turn key thru the foil). Basically trying to shield the ignition switch from outside influence. The RFID source may not be on the key ring...it maybe local to where the car is sitting. The foil will shield the ignition switch presumably letting it start if the Security light goes out (you may need to do the ECU reset 1 more time while the ignition is covered). Some RFID devices can have a range of 300ft.

I know it's a very long shot...but I can't find anything else related other than making sure the battery in remote is good but that shouldn't trigger the security light.
So I gave the tinfoil a try and....No luck. :-[ I even went back over to our local Car Toys stereo shop and talked with their car alarm installer guru and after explaining the situation to him he was baffled as well. I asked him about whether installing an aftermarket alarm would possibly clear the lockout and he was not sure. He hasn't had to deal with that situation before and (understandably) he wasn't keen on trying it out for fear of making it worse. I reluctantly agree. So I went back out and tried a few more combinations of the key in the door lock and turning back and forth and locking and unlocking with the key fob. Nothing. So I finally gave up, called the insurance company for roadside assistance and had it towed to the Chevy dealership (thankfully that was covered by the insurance company). Now I have to wait and find out what they say. Fingers crossed it's something relatively easy. :-\
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
darkstarmoto said:
^^ agreed...I just haven't found any other TSB's that point to the same 'no start' and 'security' light symptoms. I agree with your line of thought that the ECU somehow has lost it's sync to the security code somehow, I just don't see how that happens 'gradually' as you noted he was having trouble getting the remote to lock the doors the last few days prior. Generally it's working or not...and to have the security light pop on while in motion is really odd. I'm still reading thru the 570 TSB's so if I find something relevant I'll post it. In the meantime good luck, if it goes to the dealership I hope they can plug it into their scanner and find something right away.
Thank you for your assistance. I appreciate it a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, the problem has been found! It turns out that it was just a fuse after all. So in the instrument fuse panel located under the dash on the passenger side there is a little 2A fuse called "PWR MODE" that was blown. :eyebrow: The tech that I talked to said this fuse goes to the ignition and the anti-theft module therein. I don't have electrical schematics to see how this all ties in, but I can tell you that "PWR MODE" is not very intuitive in this case. :angryfire: Anyway, lesson learned I guess. Check all fuses. The crappy part with 2A fuses is that the fuse wire is so thin and tiny that it is really difficult to tell if it's blown without using a multimeter on it. That was an expensive fuse, but I guess it could have been a lot worse so I will just let it go. Thank you to those who were trying to help me. I appreciate you taking the time to help out a stranger. :cheers:
 

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Don't feel like the lone stranger. I had a similar issue with an "unmarked" fuse on my 1986 Audi 4000. Woudn't start; couldn't figure it out, had it towed. Bad fuse. Who'd a thunk?
 

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anything done that could have blown the fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
rbarrios said:
anything done that could have blown the fuse?
The technician noted that there was an aftermarket wire that went to the back of the fuse box. The only thing I have had done was I had Car Toys add a sub and amp to the stock stereo. This required a signal processor be added that took a high level signal from speaker wires and converts it to RCA low level output to plug into an amp. It is possible that the power to this unit is what the wire is. I will have to do some investigating. The weird thing is though I had that installed a couple of years ago so I don't know why that would now all of a sudden cause this issue. But I can't rule it out at this point. However, we are not the original owners of this vehicle so it is also possible the previous owner had something installed as well. Will post back when I find something out.
 

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Well at least it wasn't something more expensive I guess, right? Glad it's up and running again. :thumb:

I found the fuse in the schematic for Immobilizer, and yeah it powers the Theft Deterrent Module & the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
darkstarmoto said:
Well at least it wasn't something more expensive I guess, right? Glad it's up and running again. :thumb:

I found the fuse in the schematic for Immobilizer, and yeah it powers the Theft Deterrent Module & the ignition switch.
Right!

Is that all that comes off that fuse? PWR MODE just seems like an odd name if it is.
 
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