This is why I change all my fluids within the first 10,000 miles. - Chevy Traverse Forum: Chevrolet Traverse Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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This is why I change all my fluids within the first 10,000 miles.

This is my rear differential 75w-90 gear oil after only 6,000 miles. I knew it would be dirty but i never thought I would be this bad. The magnetic plug had a mound of very fine metal on it as you can see! That was a clean empty gallon jug with the 6,000 miles gear oil in it. Change your fluids! The most wear occurs during the first few thousand miles of everything braking in.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 09:50 PM
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Was it difficult to change yourself? I'm at 2,100 miles in one month of ownership (with a week off for the holidays!). 6,000 miles will be upon me in no time flat. TIA.

Our lineup: 2019 Traverse AWD 3LT; 2003 Hummer H2; 2001 Lexus RX300; 2000 Corvette; 1997 Yukon
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Very easy. There are 2, 10mm allen head plugs. One on the bottom and the other is half way up on the drivers side of the differential. Remove the side plug first and then the bottom one. Drain all the fluid, replace the bottom plug and fill the diff. in the drivers side plug until the fluid starts to come out. It will take just shy of a quart. I use in Lucas 75w-90 Full Synthetic in all my vehicles. It already has the limited slip additive in it.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 10:08 AM
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Sounds simple enough to make my husband do. Thanks for the info!

Our lineup: 2019 Traverse AWD 3LT; 2003 Hummer H2; 2001 Lexus RX300; 2000 Corvette; 1997 Yukon
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 10:36 AM
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My .02



I'm no stranger to changing fluids prematurely, in fact I overdo it. I change the oil filter on a new Traverse at 1000 miles simply to get rid of that shorty filter used to aid in assembly and replace with the PF63(E) specified in the manual. Thereafter every 3K miles. Receipts for purchase by DIYer is sufficient to prove proper maintenance should there be a claim under the warranty.


But, no way I'd touch the transfer case fluid in the AWD at 6K. The manual doesn't recommend a change and even that engine killer DIC doesn't monitor it. And if the AWD craps out and they find non GM stuff in the case and the owner's proof is a receipt for anything less than the correct GM part numbers.... the warranty is void ad the receipt good only for use as bathroom tissue.


In the real world if out of warranty you can go with anything you want, i.e any 75W-90 plus a friction modifying additive. The question/problem is exaclty what chemical(s) are used as friction modifiers and how much to add to a Transverse sized case? GM specs are for 75W-90 which is OK with using a generic of the same rating, but the friction modifiers and amounts added are specific to each vehicle. Think it doesn't matter? Want to to take a gamble and later cry when the dealer denies the warranty claim? That's why if you do your own service and later make a warranty claim, you had better have receipts for the correct GM spec.replacement fluids and not another brand with who knows what and how much of a friction modifying additive is contained in the non GM oil....you have given the dealer justification for a warranty denial.



GM website specifies exactly the volume and type of friction modifier to use. My previous post lists the correct GM friction modifier to be used.


https://www.traverseforum.com/66-201...iff-fluid.html


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Current Chevys -'16 Silverado LT;'18 Malibu LT Redline;'18 Traverse Premier Redline<br /><br />Previous&nbsp; Chevys:16 Malibu LT2 '17 Impala;'16 MalibuLT;'15 Camaro LS;'15 Traverse; '13,'12 and '07 Avalanche LTs; '11 Tahoe LT; '13 &'11 Malibu LTs; '08 Trailblazer;'06 Colorado WT..... Chrysler era.....'80 Citation;'75 Impala;'72 Chevelle;'69 Camaro R/T;'65 Impala SS;'62 Nova
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 10:49 AM
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Interesting...

If the oil gets dirty that fast, shouldn't GM recommend doing a Transfer Case/Differential oil change after 3000 miles or 5 months?

After seeing the pictures that Diesel328 posted, I can certainly understand the need of changing the oil sooner than later.

Thank being said, I also agree with Thomcat about either getting the dealership to do the work or DIY using approved GM oil and additives to prevent potential warranty claim issues.

Interesting topic though; food for thought.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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I have worked for a GM Powertrain engine plant for 22yrs. I have discussed this topic with the engineering department. Along with people on both the management and union side, whose only job is to address warranty and dealer issues. The GM fluid is recommended, not required. As long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specifications.
As a consumer you also have the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act to cover you if the dealer decides to play unfair.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 06:23 PM
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Maybe it makes no difference at all, but technically non OEM violates the warranty, not for the oil, but for the additive. You have no idea what materials are used on the new '18+,1-2 Sprag clutch facing or the bonding agents used for the bands. Maybe in your discussion someone might remember the fiasco that occurred when the previous version of Mopar tranny fluid was used in newer Torqueflites and it loosened the adhesive on the bands causing catastrophic failures.





Maybe no damage, but maybe there is, and maybe it even exceeds specs and maybe it doesn't because the aftermarket premix contains the incorrect concentration of additive., but ....so you save a few bucks and have to fight with the dealer and go through arbitration if it craps out. And the Magnuson-Moss Act won't help you when the dealer wins by showing you invalidated the warranty using an unapproved additive.


It all boils down to one question you have to ask yourself......."Would you be pi$$ed if you take your new $50K car for service and the mechanic sticks in some generic oil containing an unknown generic additive instead of the specific AC Delco oil brand and exact concentration of the specified AC Delco additive just to save $10 bucks?" And you can't judge how "dirty" an oil is simply by looking at color especially when you don't have a bottle of the proper OEM oil to compare it against.

Current Chevys -'16 Silverado LT;'18 Malibu LT Redline;'18 Traverse Premier Redline<br /><br />Previous&nbsp; Chevys:16 Malibu LT2 '17 Impala;'16 MalibuLT;'15 Camaro LS;'15 Traverse; '13,'12 and '07 Avalanche LTs; '11 Tahoe LT; '13 &'11 Malibu LTs; '08 Trailblazer;'06 Colorado WT..... Chrysler era.....'80 Citation;'75 Impala;'72 Chevelle;'69 Camaro R/T;'65 Impala SS;'62 Nova
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Believe me, its not about saving a few bucks! Its about using a superior product. You may like the recommended GM products, some are good... but they aren't the best thats out there.
As far as the color of the oil that came out of my rear differential.... a proper bottle of the GM oil does not look like that. Its amber in color, not black with metal glitter shimmering around....is it!
You should check out bobistheoilguy.com If you want to find the best lubricants to use...thats the place to look.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 07:54 AM
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Better safe than sorry. I would definitely change fluids at or before the recommended interval. Case in point....I also have a Lincoln MKS which states that the PTU fluid doesn't need changing

Axle and PTU Maintenance
The Power Transfer Unit (PTU) and rear axle (AWD only) in your vehicle does not require any normal scheduled maintenance. The PTU lube will be more likely to require a fluid change if the vehicle has experienced extended periods of extreme/severe duty cycle driving. Changing or checking the PTU lubricant is not necessary unless the unit has been submerged in water or shows signs of leakage. Contact your authorized dealer for service.

After following my MKS pages, I went and changed the PTU oil. It was like grease...not fluid at all at 44k miles. It was not the easiest thing to change either.

My Avalanche 4x4 was similar, though more fluid like. It was very dark and had shiny speckles in it.
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