Door locks going crazy - Chevy Traverse Forum: Chevrolet Traverse Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Door locks going crazy

I've had the dreaded traction control, stabilitrac loss of power etc problems like many others. I've replaced the battery, just replaced the throttle body today. I ran a scan after that and came back with 0 codes. Now while I'm driving, my door locks will lock and unlock like crazy. I cleaned the grounds when i changed the battery, but it's still happening. Could it be the door lock actuator? I'm worried its a loose wire somewhere and i have no idea where to start. Any help would be appreciated. I really have researched this extensively, and trying to fix things as i go, but I'm at my wits end. 2010 Traverse LT with 140,000.
Schmitty88 is offline  
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 06:36 PM
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I had something similar (although not an identical problem with my 2008 Equinox).
The problem was cracked and shorted wiring in the rubber "flex tube/boot" between the left front cowl, feeding power and signals into the hinge side (leading edge) of the drivers door.

The symptoms:
- started with no audio from drivers door speaker
- then no adjustment control of passenger side outside mirror
- then unable to lock/unlock rear doors with switches on drivers door
- then unable to lower drivers window.

What I found was many broken wires that appear to have been stretched too tight in that "flex-tube/boot" between the door and the left cowl. I carefully pulled the boot back and saw the wires had eventually broken from being "stretched" and eventually breaking (in other words worn out from opening and closing the drivers door). I spent the better part of a day surgically splicing and soldering new wiring into the narrow opening between the open door and the cowl area of the drivers footwell. NOT a fun JOB at all. I couldn't help but think; why didn't GM make these wire runs 1/2" longer allowing them to flex without breaking !!

What I would do as a test:
With your car running in park withe the ebrake on:
Open the drivers door and wiggle that rubber flex-tube/ boot, to see if the door locks will start intermittently cycling?

Hope this helps!
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you! I haven't tried that yet. I will definitely give that a shot
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 12:29 AM
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There is a connector in the door that likes to get water into it. Disconnect and drain the connector. Use some dielectric grease on it to prevent water intrusion. Usually it impacts the windows and speakers (lots of threads here on that issue), but maybe yours is impacting the door locks.

2011 2LT FWD replaced by 2017 2LT AWD
greentraverse is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 06:47 PM
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I had the same problem with the exception of the door locks going crazy, and it ended up being the brake pad sensor. Pretty cheap part, but if you put it on yourself, remember to have a mechanic "calibrate" it, or it's not going to work. Then the Stabilitrac &Traction Control stopped sending trouble messages. Ooops, I apologize...I guess the only problem you now have is the locks. I should have read more careful. Maybe the brake pad sensor advice will come in handy another time, or for someone else.

Last edited by GmaLinda; 08-21-2019 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Replied to quickly!
GmaLinda is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 09:23 PM
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It’s none of those. It is exactly what I had. The harness into the transmission controller module on the front of the transmission housing is not dressed correctly and abrades the power wire going into the TCM. If this brakes completely through you will be stranded. Up until that point the car seams like it’s got a mind of its own because it does not know the you have shifted into gear when the power is lost and therefore the doors unlock; a moment later and the TCM is talking again and the doors lock. Because of the erratic behavior the Stabilatrak kicks out also. Pop the hood, unplug the TCM cable. Take off the back shell and inspect each wire and I’ll bet you find one about the tear apart. Splice in a new piece, heat shrink, and then wrap the cable entire cable against future abrasion with self sealing silicon tape.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 10:28 AM
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Thanks for that information dmyers7 and Cuzed2, You never know what kind of weird vehicle behavior is caused by the simplest, yet not so obvious causes. I am sure this info can help a lot of people pulling their hair out, cursing their vehicles and dealers.
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