2009 Traverse Master Window Switch Not Working - Chevy Traverse Forum: Chevrolet Traverse Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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2009 Traverse Master Window Switch Not Working

Hello All

Please be patient with me. I have searched at length and tried many things to resolve my issue. My last resort may be paying a dealer to spend hours looking for the problem.

Car is a 2009 Traverse with the Bose sound system.

SYMPTOMS
Problem persists about 95% of the time. Occassionally issue will go away but only for a day or two.
All controls from the driver side master window switch will not work. There is no lights where you select driver or passenger mirror for adjustment. The backlights on the switch wont work.

Recently noticed the driver side heated seat will not work while switch is not working.

Have a longstanding issue where back speakers will distort with a grounding issue. I bang on the arm rest where the rear radio controls are and it will go back to normal (i doubt this is related but it may be, so i included it)

Things I have done:

-Found light corrosion on the quick disconnect in the door frame. Cleaned with abrasive cloth, electrical cleaner and applied dielectric grease.
-Replaced master switch
-Had dealer reprogram master switch.
-Checked wiring harness from door jam to just behind the dash panel for any damaged wires.
-Checked wiring in door looking for any sign of damage or water. Verified all quick connects were properly seated.
-Verified voltage behind the door side of the harness as well as at the switch. Found 7-8 volts on the smaller diameter red wire with white stripe. Found 12 on the larger red/white which I believe goes direct to window motor.
-This voltage is the red/white and black that goes into the first port on the master switch.
-Found from a mechanic that the 7-8 volts may be normal due to this being possibly a digital signal and not raw voltage.


I beg for any assistance you can provide. I really cant afford to pay the $700-1000 for the shop to troubleshoot this problem.

Please, if more info or pics would be helpful please let me know.

Daniel
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:21 PM
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Seems like you've hit about all there is to look at.

Maybe check the window grounds, G302 and G303. I've put the "item numbers" in the file names.
Attached Images
File Type: gif Windows - front.gif (26.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: gif Windows - rear.gif (36.6 KB, 6 views)
File Type: gif Ground G302 (Item #2).gif (87.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: gif Ground G303 (Item #5).gif (87.8 KB, 6 views)

2011 2LT FWD replaced by 2017 2LT AWD
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you greentraverse.

So as i went to look at those grounds i noticed a clicking sound coming from the control switch. A methodical clicking just like a directional being left on. I hit the window switch and nothing, but a second or two later the window crept up an inch. I kept hitting the button and got the window upin random one or two inch increments. It was still clicking so i grabbed my VOM and looked at the first connector on the back of the switch, red/white and black. It was alternating from 4 volts to 9 volts. It seemed to be moving with the clicking, which was definitely coming from the switch.

I did get to check the ground on the passenger side beam. It appeared tight and none of the wires coming out moved or freed themselves when i tugged on them. By this time the clicking stop and the switch was back to being dead.

-Is the other ground you mentioned under the driver seat? Do i have to remove it and/or the carpet to get at it?

-Is it possible there is a bad relay or other type of power supply for this switch that is going bad? Could that also impact the heated seat? Or are they completely unrelated?

-Should i see a specific voltage at the switch? Ive seen anywhere from 4-9 vdc.

Thank you!
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Another note. I tried replacing the relay. As i was removing it i heard some random clicking from the switch. Once i replaced it i could not replicate the clicking and the switch still did not work. I wiggled the wiring harness nearby; not sure if it was related but it did contain the red/white wires.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 11:31 AM
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Greentraverse references G302.
I remember that # from a video I saw.... it was a bad ground there- causing window switch /DIC/display issues.
Interestingly- plugging in a OBD reader- made the problems go away...
PLug in an OBD reader and see if the switch works....


This video shows issues related to that ground....





2010 FWD LT1-Gold Mist Metallic- seats 8.
Build Date- July 31, 2009-2nd day of Spring Hill 2010 production.

2013 Equinox 3.6L - 83,000
2010 Traverse 3.6L- 148,000
2003 Trailblazer 4.2L- 181,500
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 12:39 PM
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I believe both grounds are in the same location, just on opposite sides of the car. In the G303 pic, item #5 appears to be floating in mid-air, due to the drivers side pillar being removed "for clarity."

2011 2LT FWD replaced by 2017 2LT AWD
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Update... I noticed today that as i shifted into gear (shift from park = car doors lock automatically) that my switch stopped working. I shifted back to park and turned off car. Turned back on, switch came back to life (can tell by backlight on the switch coming on) shifted into reverse and as soon as the locks engaged the switch died. Not sure how or even if this is directly related, but the locks do sound a bit sluggish, as if the battery is very low or the motors are trying to get too much power. An overload or something.

This phenomena doesnt happen each time. I have tried again shifting and turning engine off and the switch is still dead. Only thing I know for sure is the switch and locks engaging happened simultaneously 3 times today.

Hoping someone hears all the facts and can provide a suggestion.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 06:37 PM
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How old is your battery? Many threads here of weird stuff happening and going away with a new battery.

2011 2LT FWD replaced by 2017 2LT AWD
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 08:17 AM
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My guess.......Somewhere, sometime, the driver's window was left open or the door was open during a rain downpour and the internal switch contacts are crapped out......that's where your poor return ground is located.

Current Chevys -'19 Silverado RST;'18 Malibu LT Redline;'18 Traverse Premier Redline<br /><br />Previous&nbsp; Chevys:16 Silverado LT;16 Malibu LT2;'17 Impala;'16 MalibuLT;'15 Camaro LS;'15 Traverse; '13,'12 and '07 Avalanche LTs; '11 Tahoe LT; '13 &'11 Malibu LTs; '08 Trailblazer;'06 Colorado WT..... Chrysler era.....'80 Citation;'75 Impala;'72 Chevelle;'69 Camaro R/T;'65 Impala SS;'62 Nova
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentraverse View Post
How old is your battery? Many threads here of weird stuff happening and going away with a new battery.
I havent changed the battery since i bought the vehicle 80,000 miles ago. I should probably go get a load test?
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